Inline oil filter for twin turbo setup, with new engine??
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 531
Likes: 5
Yes I have had this 4 years now iirc
Motor is perty loose, 3thou + on the mains. I run 20w50 on the xxx96 melling with the high pressure spring. I let it warm up completely before I hit it. It has been over 100psi well more than a couple times and never kicked a the filter oring or anything like that
I'm perty **** what goes to the bottom end sinceI have a billet winberg crank
Hot idle I make 50psi. Cold initial start I make 65psi.... over 100psi even at 3500rpm if it is cold. Usually around 75-80 psi at the top of high gear (7500) hot
Motor is perty loose, 3thou + on the mains. I run 20w50 on the xxx96 melling with the high pressure spring. I let it warm up completely before I hit it. It has been over 100psi well more than a couple times and never kicked a the filter oring or anything like that
I'm perty **** what goes to the bottom end sinceI have a billet winberg crank
Hot idle I make 50psi. Cold initial start I make 65psi.... over 100psi even at 3500rpm if it is cold. Usually around 75-80 psi at the top of high gear (7500) hot
How do you like the 20w50 oil?? I have 15w40 in mine right now. I'd like to see the pressure at hot idle a little higher than it is.... It's anywhere from 15 to 20 PSI on hot idle after really heating up the turbo....... I'm thinking stepping up to thicker oil will help bump up the pressure at hot idle.....
Yes, they are quite possibly the cause for some damage here. However, the most recent turbo of the two that was smoking was found to have some metal get into the oiling system, so.... there's that too. But as I mentioned in the post, I couldn't get the turbos to stop smoking without installing the restrictors. Wasn't going to be practical to replace the oil pump with a stock oil pump, after spending a week busting my *** to get everything installed and running. I also don't have the real estate to install two -12 AN fittings on the oil pan so I can upgrade from my current -10 AN drains... If I did -12 I wouldn't be able to fill my oil up to the proper level in the pan because the level would raise up to the bottom of the fittings. A lot more difficult trying to gravity drain two turbos with -12 drains than one (ie: can't easily use bungs in the stock timing cover, etc.)
Also, the current -10 lines are nice and short, and don't have any dips or bends in them. So now that the engine is back out, I'm going back to a stock pump and no restrictors, which has proven to work perfectly fine with these turbos and their drains in the past.
Needing "lots of oil" isn't necessarily an easy statement to just go off of. Someone told me that before, and suggested I get a Melling and run the highest pressure spring so I can keep these turbos nice and lubricated-- I think you see what that did for me lol.
Also, the current -10 lines are nice and short, and don't have any dips or bends in them. So now that the engine is back out, I'm going back to a stock pump and no restrictors, which has proven to work perfectly fine with these turbos and their drains in the past.
Needing "lots of oil" isn't necessarily an easy statement to just go off of. Someone told me that before, and suggested I get a Melling and run the highest pressure spring so I can keep these turbos nice and lubricated-- I think you see what that did for me lol.
Use hard line for the drains. 3/4 thin wall hardline is roughly the same diameter as ur 10an stuff. Per the manucacturer an10 is too small. They call out like 19mm. An4 unrestricted is the minimum u should have to each turbo. They suggest u measure the flow through the turbo. Has to meet x liters per min of flow.
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 515
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From: Orlando, Florida
What bypass-less filters are you all using? I've heard the Fram PH4825 is one? Anyone verify that? Can't find that PN on amazon or local.
The pan bypass (esp an old one) is very easily activated in my experience. A cold startup will do it. Higher than factory pressures, etc. I found evidence of bearing material on my turbo bearing many times because of it. I plug it now.
I tap the main galley pre filter (just because it's easy) and run an additional 1QT spin on hydraulic filter without a bypass. Adds a quart of oil to the system and ensures the turbos get a clean supply. Pretty easy to install as well cost me around $50.
Usually smoking turbos are due to an inadequate drain line. Might make sure you are squared away there as well. No reason not to stick a ¾” ID drain on them if you have the room. Make sure the fittings don’t neck way down as well.
The pan bypass (esp an old one) is very easily activated in my experience. A cold startup will do it. Higher than factory pressures, etc. I found evidence of bearing material on my turbo bearing many times because of it. I plug it now.
I tap the main galley pre filter (just because it's easy) and run an additional 1QT spin on hydraulic filter without a bypass. Adds a quart of oil to the system and ensures the turbos get a clean supply. Pretty easy to install as well cost me around $50.
Usually smoking turbos are due to an inadequate drain line. Might make sure you are squared away there as well. No reason not to stick a ¾” ID drain on them if you have the room. Make sure the fittings don’t neck way down as well.
They are all M22x1.50 filters and most of them should fit the factory LS filter location, but some will be too tall for proper ground clearance. So be sure to look at the dimensions as well.
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Use hard line for the drains. 3/4 thin wall hardline is roughly the same diameter as ur 10an stuff. Per the manucacturer an10 is too small. They call out like 19mm. An4 unrestricted is the minimum u should have to each turbo. They suggest u measure the flow through the turbo. Has to meet x liters per min of flow.
Also, does anyone know what parts are required to plug the oil bypass so I can get that on order? The engine will be here Wednesday and I plan on installing it over the weekend. Thanks!!
-Andrew
Thanks Forcefed86. Would you mind providing some more info on what other material I can use instead of copper? Or is that just about the only option? I can't seem to find any adapters for 3/4" ID flexible copper to -10AN female swivel fittings. Does such a thing exist?
Also, does anyone know what parts are required to plug the oil bypass so I can get that on order? The engine will be here Wednesday and I plan on installing it over the weekend. Thanks!!
-Andrew
Also, does anyone know what parts are required to plug the oil bypass so I can get that on order? The engine will be here Wednesday and I plan on installing it over the weekend. Thanks!!
-Andrew
I have always been interested in using one of these Universal Bypass 2 micron secondary filtration systems from Amsoil:
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...rs-and-mounts/
The way I understand it, is it filters a small percentage (10% of the oil by volume and catches particles down to 2 micron). I am guessing its a nominal rating and not an absolute, but still pretty cool. Looks like the filters last a super long time too because they see 1/10th the oil exposure...can assume as much as 10x the interval between changes compared to a standard oil filter.
Anyone have experience with these?
Looks like
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...rs-and-mounts/
The way I understand it, is it filters a small percentage (10% of the oil by volume and catches particles down to 2 micron). I am guessing its a nominal rating and not an absolute, but still pretty cool. Looks like the filters last a super long time too because they see 1/10th the oil exposure...can assume as much as 10x the interval between changes compared to a standard oil filter.
Anyone have experience with these?
Looks like
You don't need to use this as the actual bypass....just a secondary finer filtration unit in parallel and you could control the flow rate through it with a needle valve pretty easily. Could either plumb it in before or after the main filter. If you were worried about the decrease in the oil pumps flow capability because your consuming a small portion of the delivered volume, you could plumb it back into the main feed somewhere depending on your setup and you get all of it back. I may just buy that Amsoil 2 micron filter and any universal remote oil filter mount that fits it, and plumb it up as I see fit. Filter is only $40.
Could feed the turbo(s) with the outlet and use thew turbo(s) as your "needle valve"/flow restrictor!
Could feed the turbo(s) with the outlet and use thew turbo(s) as your "needle valve"/flow restrictor!
I was going to go to 12an on my new setu, even ordered all the parts to do it. Previously I had ran 5/8 hose with npt fittings threaded into the cover and turbondrain. Started checking ID of the npt stuff vs my new 12an fittings, the 12an stuff has a small ID than my 5/8 npt stuff! So I just left it alone
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
It's not that -10, -12 anything is the problem.
The bare hose is largely fine...it's whatever fittings people choose to use with the hose that can make a huge difference.
The picture above highlights some of that.
Hence why getting some simple steel pipe, 3/4" OD, make up a flange and get some oil cooler hose and clamps.
Job done, nice free flowing and very cheap.
The bare hose is largely fine...it's whatever fittings people choose to use with the hose that can make a huge difference.
The picture above highlights some of that.
Hence why getting some simple steel pipe, 3/4" OD, make up a flange and get some oil cooler hose and clamps.
Job done, nice free flowing and very cheap.
You can buy the cumming's flexible drain lines. They are 3/4. And come with the correct drain flange for most turbos. Can also run them close to the hot parts.
Almost the same as the gas line tubing.
http://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-power...iABEgKu9fD_BwE
Can also run a 3/4 bit through the an12 fittings. They are usually about 4mm shy of 3/4.
Almost the same as the gas line tubing.
http://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-power...iABEgKu9fD_BwE
Can also run a 3/4 bit through the an12 fittings. They are usually about 4mm shy of 3/4.
Sorry to sound so helpless here.... I'm pretty good with figuring out fittings for various types of plumbing and putting stuff together, but I've never worked with hard tubing other than non-flexible copper and threaded galvanized pipe. I can't even seem to find the 3/4" ID flexible aluminum tubing on Aircraft Spruce. I found stuff here http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...3versatube.php but it only goes up to 5/8" OD.
I'm also not exactly sure what I should be using for collars and b-nuts. I tried looking for both on Aircraft Spruce and on Google and can't seem to find anything that is what I think I should be looking for, to work with 3/4" aluminum tubing.
What type female thread would a 3/4" B-nut even have? 3/4" NPT?? Looking to know so I can also find the B-nut to AN adapters I'll need.
Also, if I am limited to -10AN male fittings in my oil pan, is that going to defeat the purpose of running -12AN drain turbo drain fittings and 3/4" ID lines from the turbos to these -10AN fittings in the pan?????
I am running all Russell Performance fittings and hose for my feeds and drains on my current setup, so I'm not running some cheaper eBay stuff that has smaller outlets than actual -10AN or anything. But maybe I can open up the -10AN male fittings in the oil pan a little more to use larger fittings and line from the turbos?? I haven't looked at the fittings in a while to see how much meat is left on them in order to confirm if they can be opened up some more, but I would imagine I should be able to open them up a touch more?
Thanks again!
You can buy the cumming's flexible drain lines. They are 3/4. And come with the correct drain flange for most turbos. Can also run them close to the hot parts.
Almost the same as the gas line tubing.
http://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-power...iABEgKu9fD_BwE
Can also run a 3/4 bit through the an12 fittings. They are usually about 4mm shy of 3/4.
Almost the same as the gas line tubing.
http://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-power...iABEgKu9fD_BwE
Can also run a 3/4 bit through the an12 fittings. They are usually about 4mm shy of 3/4.
The flange looks the same?