Inline oil filter for twin turbo setup, with new engine??
Thanks once again!
Sorry to sound so helpless here.... I'm pretty good with figuring out fittings for various types of plumbing and putting stuff together, but I've never worked with hard tubing other than non-flexible copper and threaded galvanized pipe. I can't even seem to find the 3/4" ID flexible aluminum tubing on Aircraft Spruce.
I am running all Russell Performance fittings and hose for my feeds and drains on my current setup, so I'm not running some cheaper eBay stuff that has smaller outlets than actual -10AN or anything. But maybe I can open up the -10AN male fittings in the oil pan a little more to use larger fittings and line from the turbos?? I haven't looked at the fittings in a while to see how much meat is left on them in order to confirm if they can be opened up some more, but I would imagine I should be able to open them up a touch more?
Thanks again!
Sorry to sound so helpless here.... I'm pretty good with figuring out fittings for various types of plumbing and putting stuff together, but I've never worked with hard tubing other than non-flexible copper and threaded galvanized pipe. I can't even seem to find the 3/4" ID flexible aluminum tubing on Aircraft Spruce.
I am running all Russell Performance fittings and hose for my feeds and drains on my current setup, so I'm not running some cheaper eBay stuff that has smaller outlets than actual -10AN or anything. But maybe I can open up the -10AN male fittings in the oil pan a little more to use larger fittings and line from the turbos?? I haven't looked at the fittings in a while to see how much meat is left on them in order to confirm if they can be opened up some more, but I would imagine I should be able to open them up a touch more?
Thanks again!
I'd use some sort of flexible tubing at the pan instead of a fitting to allow flex if you use hard line. The system will only flow as much as the smallest point. So ideally you should have 19mm or greater the entire run, including fittings.
Usually only cracks if you plumb it in a way it can’t expand and contract with heat (or if there is a lot of movement between the parts) Can’t do a direct run to hard fittings with hard tubing. It needs excess material (bends or waviness) for expansion/contraction. I plumb hydraulic lines on aircraft in Ÿ + hard line all the time. For a straight 10” run fitting to fitting we use 12-14” of tubing. With a gravity drain I use a coupling style connection on one end to allow for this without excessive “waviness” into the plumbing.
Usually only cracks if you plumb it in a way it cant expand and contract with heat (or if there is a lot of movement between the parts) Cant do a direct run to hard fittings with hard tubing. It needs excess material (bends or waviness) for expansion/contraction. I plumb hydraulic lines on aircraft in Ÿ + hard line all the time. For a straight 10 run fitting to fitting we use 12-14 of tubing. With a gravity drain I use a coupling style connection on one end to allow for this without excessive waviness into the plumbing.
TECH Addict
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: PDX-OR-USA
Usually only cracks if you plumb it in a way it cant expand and contract with heat (or if there is a lot of movement between the parts) Cant do a direct run to hard fittings with hard tubing. It needs excess material (bends or waviness) for expansion/contraction. I plumb hydraulic lines on aircraft in Ÿ + hard line all the time. For a straight 10 run fitting to fitting we use 12-14 of tubing. With a gravity drain I use a coupling style connection on one end to allow for this without excessive waviness into the plumbing.
When you have 4 dry sump pickup hoses that all have to thread through the frame/cage etc to the pan..
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You can order a bypass replacement for less than $2 shipped. Fill the inside of the spring "cage" with JB weld.. Done. Or order the nice billet plug from improved racing.
The threaded insert you thread the filter onto holds it in place.
The threaded insert you thread the filter onto holds it in place.
