Turbo and PCV?
TECH Addict
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,513
Likes: 480
From: PDX-OR-USA
).. Works with a separator/can but without.. its a cleanup job. 
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 48
The best solution is a vacuum pump. PCV valves only draw vacuum when your engine is making intake manifold vacuum, which is when you really don't need as much venting because your engine is making less blow-by. PCV valves also introduce oil into your combustion chambers which lowers the octane of your fuel,and causes detonation.
Pressure in your crankcase not only causes oil leaks, it can also force oil past your valve guides and into your combustion chambers.
Catch cans work if you have large enough tubes running from your engine to them to maintain no positive pressure. The hoses need to be larger than you would think.
A vacuum pump will stop oil leaks, add horsepower, keep your oil cleaner, and prevent oil in your combustion chambers.
Pressure in your crankcase not only causes oil leaks, it can also force oil past your valve guides and into your combustion chambers.
Catch cans work if you have large enough tubes running from your engine to them to maintain no positive pressure. The hoses need to be larger than you would think.
A vacuum pump will stop oil leaks, add horsepower, keep your oil cleaner, and prevent oil in your combustion chambers.
Here's a pic of what I did, not a great pic
Came out of the 90 deg with a check valve, then oil sep, line to the valve cover, worked great.
I tried the line to the valley cover, but it sucked a lot of oil.
Came out of the 90 deg with a check valve, then oil sep, line to the valve cover, worked great.
I tried the line to the valley cover, but it sucked a lot of oil.
One of the slicker set ups I have seen ran check valves into the downstream exhaust for this. No smell, no oil to drain or clean and it got burnt up in the exhaust. I cant recall where the valves came from but they were 10an or so welded onto the pipe. One per bank. Worked slick
One of the slicker set ups I have seen ran check valves into the downstream exhaust for this. No smell, no oil to drain or clean and it got burnt up in the exhaust. I cant recall where the valves came from but they were 10an or so welded onto the pipe. One per bank. Worked slick
Would it work the same if you were running a factory merged full exhaust with a large muffler that was more restrictive?
You can get the kit from Jegs for pretty cheap.
I suppose the only way to know that would be to try it 
Turbos hate mufflers, or exhaust longer than a foot. Most of the builds I paid attention too were pretty wild and had very little in way of muffler or exhaust restriction. IIRC the car I saw those valves on had dual 4" or maybe 3.5", regardless it was a big system with borla straight throughs or hooker maxflows, something like that. A lot of guys run maxflows or straight muffs on turbo set ups
Turbos hate mufflers, or exhaust longer than a foot. Most of the builds I paid attention too were pretty wild and had very little in way of muffler or exhaust restriction. IIRC the car I saw those valves on had dual 4" or maybe 3.5", regardless it was a big system with borla straight throughs or hooker maxflows, something like that. A lot of guys run maxflows or straight muffs on turbo set ups
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Verdad Gallardo I suppose the only way to know that would be to try it
Turbos hate mufflers, or exhaust longer than a foot. Most of the builds I paid attention too were pretty wild and had very little in way of muffler or exhaust restriction. IIRC the car I saw those valves on had dual 4" or maybe 3.5", regardless it was a big system with borla straight throughs or hooker maxflows, something like that. A lot of guys run maxflows or straight muffs on turbo set ups
Turbos hate mufflers, or exhaust longer than a foot. Most of the builds I paid attention too were pretty wild and had very little in way of muffler or exhaust restriction. IIRC the car I saw those valves on had dual 4" or maybe 3.5", regardless it was a big system with borla straight throughs or hooker maxflows, something like that. A lot of guys run maxflows or straight muffs on turbo set ups
I'm not a fan but I also have a cutout so when I know I'm gonna get stupid I open it.
I'm currently running a full 3" system with a magnaflow in the factory location but even when its closed it just kills the performance, its a must have though for long road trips and when my little dude is on the car with me.
So I found this Evac Kit and am wondering if I ran one from each valve cover and into the exhaust pipe just upstream of the cutout, maybe on each side of the pipe?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/6002/10002/-1
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Ball those are the valves. The top end was different than those acumulators or filters or whatever they are called though but that kit looks like it would work great.
Vacuum pumps work mint for racing, but for street use? Seems extreme, sounds HM. Anyone do this?
Vacuum pumps work mint for racing, but for street use? Seems extreme, sounds HM. Anyone do this?
Let alone the cost of the setup plus fabricating all the brackets that would be required.
It doesn't make a lot of sense to make that kind of investment when so many are running a basic catch can setup with good results.
I'm going to research this idea a little more since I'm currently revamping my PCV system too.
I feel like I've read that someone did this on this forum but can't for the life of me remember who it was.
man I love pcv. Hook it to the exhaust, hook it to a pump. Hook one to the pump, one to the exhaust, and one to the intake. Hook everything up for pcv you can until the engine is satisfied. All of it works to some extent and provides a necessary function of extending engine life. For we all want to extend the life of our parts, right?
I dont care how you do it, just get it done. Leaving it open all the time is just a plain lazy and minimal effort shortcut with zero benefits.
I dont care how you do it, just get it done. Leaving it open all the time is just a plain lazy and minimal effort shortcut with zero benefits.
man I love pcv. Hook it to the exhaust, hook it to a pump. Hook one to the pump, one to the exhaust, and one to the intake. Hook everything up for pcv you can until the engine is satisfied. All of it works to some extent and provides a necessary function of extending engine life. For we all want to extend the life of our parts, right?
I dont care how you do it, just get it done. Leaving it open all the time is just a plain lazy and minimal effort shortcut with zero benefits.
I dont care how you do it, just get it done. Leaving it open all the time is just a plain lazy and minimal effort shortcut with zero benefits.
the pcv is a chance to be creative with your car. how boring is a vent tube with a filter? We can do better than that. Im not saying its a priority- by all means fix everything else first. but when ur all finished and driving and bored, looking for something to do or else you need to sell the car to start a new project just to have more things to do- fix the pcv up nice to something instead of selling it.
Since your doing a turbo the setup I have could work but may create a problem with the location of the breather can with respect to the turbo. 3 Window's setup would be the direction to go. Also if your going to pull vacuum from the intake through a can then you will need to go with a sealed catch can, not breather cans. Pulling vacuum from the intake through a breather can will draw in non metered air which can cause tuning issues.
I have the ability to run a sealed catch can from the valley cover through the can and into the intake manifold .The LS2 valley cover has a built in PCV and in stock form a single hose connected them.
I've been running the breather can without issues and after 3,000 miles my oil still has clarity. Engines create oil vapors no getting around that and those vapors escape through the breather can and past the rings during combustion.
Pulling crankcase vapors via a sealed catch can and from a valve cover to the throttle body only introduces additional oil vapors into your intake manifold ultimately weakening the fuel charge which can cost you HP and eventually over time gunk up your intake manifold, your injectors and valves with oil deposits. And who wants that!
I've been running the breather can without issues and after 3,000 miles my oil still has clarity. Engines create oil vapors no getting around that and those vapors escape through the breather can and past the rings during combustion.
Pulling crankcase vapors via a sealed catch can and from a valve cover to the throttle body only introduces additional oil vapors into your intake manifold ultimately weakening the fuel charge which can cost you HP and eventually over time gunk up your intake manifold, your injectors and valves with oil deposits. And who wants that!
