Meth Injection
09-25-2017, 07:12 AM
#24
Restricted User
09-25-2017, 08:41 PM
#27
Restricted User
All those saying that pure meth is the only way to go are EXTREMELY foolish.
Pure meth is perfect for a forged piston setup with safe ring gaps.
Water cools far more than meth could ever hope to, and guys on stock cast pistons and stock ring gaps would benefit a great deal from using water to keep combustion temps down. Spraying pure meth might keep detonation at bay, but its not going to help keep those rings from butting together or a ring land from breaking. Water WILL.
Pure meth won't corrode your aluminum or your silicone couplers anytime soon. You would need to run about 50 gallons of pure meth through there before you will be able to even see any signs of use.
Pure meth is perfect for a forged piston setup with safe ring gaps.
Water cools far more than meth could ever hope to, and guys on stock cast pistons and stock ring gaps would benefit a great deal from using water to keep combustion temps down. Spraying pure meth might keep detonation at bay, but its not going to help keep those rings from butting together or a ring land from breaking. Water WILL.
Pure meth won't corrode your aluminum or your silicone couplers anytime soon. You would need to run about 50 gallons of pure meth through there before you will be able to even see any signs of use.
09-26-2017, 01:51 PM
#28
there we go. ^^
+1
Everyone forgets about water but water is the "coolest" of drinkable, safest, most convenient substances at our disposal. When I stop and the engine is hot I might pour water slowly over the top of the engine, radiator, everywhere possible. Let it capture the heat and drip off the car. If I could I would install external ambient temperature sensors and a pad that used a transistor circuit to operate a pump whenever water was not detected on a pad below, pumping water onto the engine intake manifold down pathways which relief to the oil pan drainoff area where the transistor circuit awaits. The external engine temperature could be maintained to 212*F~ this way, where currently I measure over 240*F average and easily boil water from the head. A 200*F operating coolant temperature range is not uncommon so this is to be expected, and is desirable for economy in off boost situations. But if one is not driving for economy (distance), and only racing, a lower T-stat could be used. The aspect of racing I am detailing here is the high T-stat, gasoline engine, with outer average temperature of an gasoline engine which is based on engine output, and climate conditions (a race in a hot sunny dry day) since some percentage of engine output always winds up in heat around the engine, emanating from the engine, and higher climate temperatures make it more difficult to get rid of that high temperature radiation. A turbo engine would produce more power (energy/time or horsepower or watts or joules/second) than an N/A engine (you would think) so the external engine temp control of turbo engines is more critical as seen from the engine bay perspective (where most of our equipment is located). Water is able to put a cap on this temperature- I can guarantee you the external engine temp surface is around 212*F If I can keep a liquid water there. Oil acts as a coolant and is far more important to maintain than the external engine temp of an engine, this is only an example showing how water as an energy absorber could be used other ways.
Truly if you are racing without rules you would be using E85 or similar to help control temperature issues in the chamber, with external coolers/capacity as necessary.
+1
Everyone forgets about water but water is the "coolest" of drinkable, safest, most convenient substances at our disposal. When I stop and the engine is hot I might pour water slowly over the top of the engine, radiator, everywhere possible. Let it capture the heat and drip off the car. If I could I would install external ambient temperature sensors and a pad that used a transistor circuit to operate a pump whenever water was not detected on a pad below, pumping water onto the engine intake manifold down pathways which relief to the oil pan drainoff area where the transistor circuit awaits. The external engine temperature could be maintained to 212*F~ this way, where currently I measure over 240*F average and easily boil water from the head. A 200*F operating coolant temperature range is not uncommon so this is to be expected, and is desirable for economy in off boost situations. But if one is not driving for economy (distance), and only racing, a lower T-stat could be used. The aspect of racing I am detailing here is the high T-stat, gasoline engine, with outer average temperature of an gasoline engine which is based on engine output, and climate conditions (a race in a hot sunny dry day) since some percentage of engine output always winds up in heat around the engine, emanating from the engine, and higher climate temperatures make it more difficult to get rid of that high temperature radiation. A turbo engine would produce more power (energy/time or horsepower or watts or joules/second) than an N/A engine (you would think) so the external engine temp control of turbo engines is more critical as seen from the engine bay perspective (where most of our equipment is located). Water is able to put a cap on this temperature- I can guarantee you the external engine temp surface is around 212*F If I can keep a liquid water there. Oil acts as a coolant and is far more important to maintain than the external engine temp of an engine, this is only an example showing how water as an energy absorber could be used other ways.
Truly if you are racing without rules you would be using E85 or similar to help control temperature issues in the chamber, with external coolers/capacity as necessary.
Last edited by kingtal0n; 09-26-2017 at 04:24 PM.
09-27-2017, 01:02 PM
#32
TECH Addict
I'd use all AN and all the hose should be braided and alcohol lined, fwiw, all the fuel lines on a sprint car have to be braided stainless with I believe tygon liner..
Honestly I use a small alcohol fuel cell to store it in the car.. If your running meth, also buy a purpleK or cold fire fire extinguisher, regular ones don't work on a methanol fire.
Methanol doesn't corrode metal unless there is oxygen available and water..
Klotz Uplon mixed in the meth keeps it from misbehaving and helps keep all the injection components clean from any methanol buildup. At least thats what do on a Hillborn type system. When storing I flush the lines with gasoline then blow them out with air. The Uplon also makes the methanol fire visible if you had one, it makes the flames yellow instead of nearly invisible.
09-27-2017, 01:43 PM
#33
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I wouldn't plumb a meth system with fittings that require sealant.
I'd use all AN and all the hose should be braided and alcohol lined, fwiw, all the fuel lines on a sprint car have to be braided stainless with I believe tygon liner..
Honestly I use a small alcohol fuel cell to store it in the car.. If your running meth, also buy a purpleK or cold fire fire extinguisher, regular ones don't work on a methanol fire.
Methanol doesn't corrode metal unless there is oxygen available and water..
Klotz Uplon mixed in the meth keeps it from misbehaving and helps keep all the injection components clean from any methanol buildup. At least thats what do on a Hillborn type system. When storing I flush the lines with gasoline then blow them out with air. The Uplon also makes the methanol fire visible if you had one, it makes the flames yellow instead of nearly invisible.
I'd use all AN and all the hose should be braided and alcohol lined, fwiw, all the fuel lines on a sprint car have to be braided stainless with I believe tygon liner..
Honestly I use a small alcohol fuel cell to store it in the car.. If your running meth, also buy a purpleK or cold fire fire extinguisher, regular ones don't work on a methanol fire.
Methanol doesn't corrode metal unless there is oxygen available and water..
Klotz Uplon mixed in the meth keeps it from misbehaving and helps keep all the injection components clean from any methanol buildup. At least thats what do on a Hillborn type system. When storing I flush the lines with gasoline then blow them out with air. The Uplon also makes the methanol fire visible if you had one, it makes the flames yellow instead of nearly invisible.
09-27-2017, 03:48 PM
#36
Restricted User
09-27-2017, 03:54 PM
#37
TECH Addict
09-27-2017, 04:07 PM
#38
that should work good. I'd use that nozzle and not try to get too complicated. you won't get great IAT readings but it's nice to be able to tune it to pull timing if IATs get high as rough failsafe. if you were to somehow spray it back into the oncoming air you'd get issues, that's why nitrous nozzles never look like that.
i used the alky control fittings exactly as you have for your meth nozzle in the intake pipe with a hole just drilled with cordless drill and have been running 15-16psi at 900whp now for a long time without issue. when i checked everything for boost leaks awhile back i found zero leaks with those nozzles at 25+psi so i think youll be fine. I did use some threadlock so that it never comes apart and grenades my motor with that washer or nozzle though.
if you talk to the guys who make the meth kits you'll find they recommend running meth and not mixing it with water although people will argue endlessly for both.
call julio with questions for sure, super helpful and nice guy who has run methanol setups personally on more setups than I can count including some very big power stuff
i used the alky control fittings exactly as you have for your meth nozzle in the intake pipe with a hole just drilled with cordless drill and have been running 15-16psi at 900whp now for a long time without issue. when i checked everything for boost leaks awhile back i found zero leaks with those nozzles at 25+psi so i think youll be fine. I did use some threadlock so that it never comes apart and grenades my motor with that washer or nozzle though.
if you talk to the guys who make the meth kits you'll find they recommend running meth and not mixing it with water although people will argue endlessly for both.
call julio with questions for sure, super helpful and nice guy who has run methanol setups personally on more setups than I can count including some very big power stuff
09-28-2017, 08:03 AM
#39
Staging Lane
Snow Meth system I am using 50/50 with my Snow system. I have a 2001 Camaro Z 28 with a new LS3 crate motor with D1SC super-charger, cam, meth system, boost-a-pump. All is good with the meth system when running but it continues to run after the engine is shut off. Anyone have the problem?