So now that I've got the cam figured out, what are the options for a turbo application looking to make ~600 rwhp? My original plan was to just gap the rings to ~0.028 and replace the rod bolts with ARP rod bolts, but it sounds like the rods themselves are the limiting factor in this equation (this is a 2000 LQ4 we're talking about here). Since the motor is out and sitting in front of me, I'd just assume go ahead and take care of everything right now. From what I've gathered, the 2000 pistons/rods are a press fit design rather than floating pin, so if I upgrade to LS2/LT1/LT4 rods I'll need to upgrade/update the pistons, as well. Any input is appreciated.

 

if you gap the rings and leave it alone it will make 600 wheel. I have ran a few of those engines stock and unopened at 14 to 15 lbs boost and they never missed a beat. one ran 11.30s at 4400 lbs in a Silverado. that was 3 years ago and that engine has been in my 2500 hd work truck for a couple years now. still never apart except the ls6 valve springs that are still in it.

 

Find a used set of gen4 rods/pistons and drop them in. I have a buddy is selling a set if you need them. PM me. (in KS) Ideally you'd want to balance the assy after, but many don't on low RPM budget builds.

 

For the money, I'm leaning pretty heavily towards the LT4 rods. And in that case, I may as well go forged pistons, but damn are they pricey for these LS motors. Not sure if I should go with a dish to keep the CR around 9.5:1, or flat top and 10:1.

 

IMO…

With your goals there’s no reason for any of that. For 600hp, You’d be better off not touching anything, maybe dropping in a MILD cam. Or at the most dropping in a set of gen4 rods/pistons.

Over complicating and over spending are what every performance/machine shop want you to do. They want you to think you need 10k in a motor to make 600hp. It’s been beyond proven that’s not the case. Look at Capazzi turning the stock gen4 rod/piston to 8300+RPM routinely making 1200hp++. Stock rod bolts, main bolts, even original gm bearings. Why do you think you need anything more than a 100% stock long block for your goals? if you are planning on more than the gen4 internals can handle, you shouldn’t be running a stock block. Stuffing a big $ bottom end (forged rods/pistons/crank) in a stock block also makes very little sense.

Once the engine goes through the machine shop doors, you are pretty much committed and they know it. The second you start putting parts in an engine that don’t fit perfectly, the chances of someone making a mistake skyrockets. In my personal experience there’s about a 50% chance of the average machine shop gets everything right. Same goes with the engine assembly… not good odds! Sure you could spend 10x the average cost with a great machine shop/engine guy. They *might* get it right… but by then you have big $ in a mild stock block build.

Spend your money on the turbo, fuel system, ECU, and driveline. 600-700hp long blocks are cheap these days. If you blow an engine, drop in another stock long block and go. A boost noob is just as likely to blow a stock block as a built one IMO. It’s all in the combo/tune…getting that right might cost an engine or 3… so it’s better to blow the cheap engines.

 

I've noticed a LOT of new people on the forums lately that come in asking for advice and then completely ignore everything everyone says and goes their own direction.

 

You should get some of these.
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=554003

 

All the time.

 

I went through the same thing myself on my first LS build. Bought a $300 motor, spent $1000 at a machine shop getting it "cleaned up" and what not. Then grenaded it 250 miles later. You are better off getting a running motor and leaving it alone.

 

I think this is the route I'm gonna go. Not even mess with trying to open up the gap on the rings. It's going to be a big enough job just getting the engine stabbed in there and running. I'll leave it stock aside from a cam at the moment - I've definitely gone down the "well, while I'm in there..." rabbit hole before and it doesn't always turn out for the best.

I appreciate the input/suggestions.

 

Also when you put the turbo kit together... try to do it in a way that lets you pull the engine in/out as easily as possible. Frame mount turbo out of the way. Stock manifolds with easy to route small diameter piping and a few vbands for easy removal. Also having easy access to plugs is a biggy if you want to get the tuning thing down IMO.

Good luck, sounds like your on the right path.

 

I hope I don't come across that way. I sincerely appreciate people contributing their knowledge, and I take it all into consideration. Sometimes I play devil's advocate a bit just to stimulate the conversation. I know that most are just trying to save me money and time through what they've learned the hard way, and I can only hope to pass on that same information in the future.

 

Amen.