Thinking of Ebay-Turbo over HCI
My comment was not fully explained.
I was talking about my goals. Not going crate or spending $10k for a crate when 430hp/11sec was my goal and the LS1 can get it there with HCI. As I looked into turbo stuff more the $2k kits are working and seem to be bolt on to existing blocks and can get the 500-600hp/tq range easy on same long block.
So I am fixing the oil leak adding some love to the tranny while at it. Next step do I cam only and plan for a turbo. Hence asking for feedback. Is it too complicated and realistic for $5k budget to get 500-600hp/tq on a stock ls1.
People are doing and it sounds like the answer is yes.
SO back to my original question: I was asked gap the wrings when you turbo and I am thinking? Why would I pull the motor to rip the shortblock apart to just gap the rings for a cheap turbo kit bolt on. And if my block is still good and I decide to keep it and pull it I am doing it right and going for a stroker.
There goes my budget and I also realize I am not getting 500/600 on a NA stroker. I answered my own question but also like WTF am I missing something?
For the mechanic robbing my blind I am not worried about that. I know enough to be dangerous and would turn the wrenches myself if I had the extra space and a lift for it to sit for a while. I would figure it out pretty easy.
I have a leaking rear main seal and oil pan. The tranny is being dropped. I am getting it fixed and dropping in an FTI 3200 torque converter.
While he is in there I am looking at other options to throw some money into it while on the rack. new rear, cam only build with my intent to add a proper turbo or HCI build very soon.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I also agree the SSTQ is small I would get the SS-HT. I like the V2 as well but it seems Ed lobes and powerband are more DD friendly then the V2 and even seem make more power at track and dyno.
I think, NA it with the SS-HT, do a fast with new injectors myself, then plan the FI build.
Turbo seems cheap for a kit but the welding, tweaking tuning for me is all shop time and will be big $. It seems the procharger, maybe used, is much simpler and can easily get me to a 600hp goal for a bolt on or more.
new it looks like a p1/d1 are $6k bolt on, more fuel and tune.
I also agree the SSTQ is small I would get the SS-HT. I like the V2 as well but it seems Ed lobes and powerband are more DD friendly then the V2 and even seem make more power at track and dyno.
I think, NA it with the SS-HT, do a fast with new injectors myself, then plan the FI build.
Turbo seems cheap for a kit but the welding, tweaking tuning for me is all shop time and will be big $. It seems the procharger, maybe used, is much simpler and can easily get me to a 600hp goal for a bolt on or more.
new it looks like a p1/d1 are $6k bolt on, more fuel and tune.
Like I was trying to say for a na build it's fine. However that choppy idle that people love is valve overlap. On a NA build that's fine. On a turbo car it's bad. So that cam will be rad until you go turbo. Then it will have points where both valves are open and just shoving clean air out the exhaust
i am doing the tranny now though for sure and 3.42






600ftlbs here....bone stock 4l60e with a Yank 3600 stall....still in 1 piece. 


