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Thinking of Ebay-Turbo over HCI

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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 11:48 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
They make cheap piping kits for fbodies. No fabrication needed buddy.
But a $1500 kit and eBay turbo looks like $7k to get installed when all done? Not including labor? Lore more fueling, oil, moving brackets radiator k member more lift time?

u less those kits are remove front end and exhaust and bolt up add fuel,oil lines and tune?

Rear by plugs are tight too and and some kits look work to massage?

But if turkey all the parts are there for $1500 and I can give a good speed shop 20hrs of shop time to truley bolt up and I add fuel pump injectors and tune that might be the same $5k budget
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Cuff
But a $1500 kit and eBay turbo looks like $7k to get installed when all done? Not including labor? Lore more fueling, oil, moving brackets radiator k member more lift time?

u less those kits are remove front end and exhaust and bolt up add fuel,oil lines and tune?

Rear by plugs are tight too and and some kits look work to massage?

But if turkey all the parts are there for $1500 and I can give a good speed shop 20hrs of shop time to truley bolt up and I add fuel pump injectors and tune that might be the same $5k budget
W...T....F???? Is this some sort of cryptic message?? Lol, man skip the car for now.... there are some other things that need immediate attention.
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Cuff
But a $1500 kit and eBay turbo looks like $7k to get installed when all done? Not including labor? Lore more fueling, oil, moving brackets radiator k member more lift time?

u less those kits are remove front end and exhaust and bolt up add fuel,oil lines and tune?

Rear by plugs are tight too and and some kits look work to massage?

But if turkey all the parts are there for $1500 and I can give a good speed shop 20hrs of shop time to truley bolt up and I add fuel pump injectors and tune that might be the same $5k budget
Say no to drugs!
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by my_2k_z
say no to drugs!
😂😂😂😂😂
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 12:01 PM
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the crowd is turning on you my friend
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 01:02 PM
  #46  
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Man that was an iphone reply disaster. WTF, an autocorrect nightmare, sticky that sh*t.

Sorry guys. I am not some cheap f**k trying to build on a shoestring budget but I also want to not match what I spend to my wants. It is a toy and I am not doing the labor myself unless it is top end under the hood stuff. Intake swap, fuel rails, front accessories, springs, electronics.

I also obviously cant spell worth a dam!

This did thread did take a turn. You guys have answered my questions but the discussion has grown legs.

OK Budget is $5k, Goals are mid 400hp/low-mid 11sec auto car on streets or street DR.
I can get there with NA bolt ons I get that but looking at my budget:
I am not doing most of the work. My cars is a solid running 02 trans am, ls1, stock, ls6 intake, lid. Runs great, no smoke, good power, tranny good, just an oil pan and rear seal leak.
So while I have some things accessible, I will fix them and not duplicate labor $. For this leak repair I will upgrade the stall.

The stall brings me back to the motor. I was going HCI but for $5k I keep seeing turbo and SC builds and for a DD 550-650hp range as easy to hit. Within a budget of $5k which FI setup can I DIY or have others install for $5k maybe $6k all in.

I like the HCI since I can phase my spend in. Do the cam only now, intake myself heads later and be at $5k and at my goals. But after $5k and just NA would be a letdown to a stocker with FI blowing my doors off.

Or after this stall swap, leave engine alone and plan the FI build. Turbo kits are $1500 ebay or $3k from huron. They look like plug and play can they be DIY without welding or pulling the motor? If it is plug and play and easy I might be ok paying someone the 20hrs and $2k in labor to do and hence I am at my $5k budget. Looking here on ls1, many are into the turbo kits like $5-$7k without install! Which for me is now $8k-$10k build.

Prochargers are steep at $6k but they appear to be DIY I can do that install myself.
And they get me into the DD goals

I am not to worried about the engine, the mods will travel if she goes. She has 140k if it breaks I will fix it into an LS2
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AnotherWs6
IMPOSSIBLE!!! All 4l60e's instantly explode once you hit 500rwhp. Car doesn't even have to be running. Internet fact.


Originally Posted by Game ova
How often are you at the track, launching the car like you just don't care anymore with that 600ft/lbs? The track exposes things quick...fast... and in a hurry.
That's why I'm waiting to make a thread in the Auto section, and probably a sticky. The car has seen the track plenty when it was stall/cam only, haven't been yet with the blower. That said, it ONLY rolls around on 295/50/16 M/T drag radials and pulls are made whenever the car goes out so at a minimum the 2-3 shift is being exercised and staying alive like the Bee Gee's. After all the research I did, I came to some conclusions about what you can and cant do to keep the 4L60E alive. After I go to the track with the blower, I'll post up. I live in FL so its still hot as crap down here.....when there's not a hurricane.
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 04:10 PM
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My huron speed kit was 2500, but there were ways to lower that with some specific parts selection differences. Or you could simply do a VS racing kit, their billet 78/75 for less, add your fuel system and tuning and youre on the road. Mine is tuned to 7 lbs on a 5.3L and it is ******* beast mode, way faster then my HC LS1 that ran 10.8s. Way faster.
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MY_2K_Z
Say no to drugs!
Too many of these threads.



OP, members have given you great advice but you're going around in circles. All the info you need is on here. Get to reading and good luck.
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
My huron speed kit was 2500, but there were ways to lower that with some specific parts selection differences. Or you could simply do a VS racing kit, their billet 78/75 for less, add your fuel system and tuning and youre on the road. Mine is tuned to 7 lbs on a 5.3L and it is ******* beast mode, way faster then my HC LS1 that ran 10.8s. Way faster.
I wish we could freaking use you in every thread in the internal section about people saying heads cam is the way to go and screw FI and it's SOOOOO much more expensive etc. Etc.
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 08:25 PM
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It's ok if a lot of people don't like turbos. However, more and more people are becoming aware thanks to Denmah. It's about to get really popular, very fast.
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Old Oct 11, 2017 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
I wish we could freaking use you in every thread in the internal section about people saying heads cam is the way to go and screw FI and it's SOOOOO much more expensive etc. Etc.
This is money right here, thank you!

I read the Huron speed install and man it is straight forward.

I assume there are plenty base turbo tunes to start with or by frost to get up and running quickly too.
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Old Oct 12, 2017 | 12:04 AM
  #53  
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I'm not saying keep the stock cam. Look at the brutespeed fi cam. If you already have or plan to have the engine out do it now. That cam works pretty well for a na application and then does great when fi is introduced.
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Old Oct 12, 2017 | 01:20 AM
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Doing a cam is completely unnecessary for his goals. I ran a the stock ls3 cam for a while and it still felt great with amazing street manners.
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Old Oct 12, 2017 | 04:33 AM
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Tying your shoes is completely necessary when walking 5 miles. Just because you can do it without doesn't make it unnecessary. In these cars it's all about the cam. On a NA set up its worth like 60+rwhp alone. I'd rather have a proper cam and not use boost as a crutch.
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Old Oct 12, 2017 | 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Cuff
This is money right here, thank you!

I read the Huron speed install and man it is straight forward.

I assume there are plenty base turbo tunes to start with or by frost to get up and running quickly too.
Which version of the kit did you read about the install?
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Old Oct 12, 2017 | 07:40 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by silvea
Tying your shoes is completely necessary when walking 5 miles. Just because you can do it without doesn't make it unnecessary. In these cars it's all about the cam. On a NA set up its worth like 60+rwhp alone. I'd rather have a proper cam and not use boost as a crutch.
Silvea, I understand what you are saying. to keep things in budget how much do I want to spend and have room to grow even if I dont add the power later.

Cam Only: $1500 kit+install 50hp
Heads Cam (keep LS6intake): $2500 installed with PRC 2.5 +90 with cam

So a 430HP car, simple solution but probably $4k into it and within my goals but just keeping up with newer modern muscle and no where to go up except add NOS. maybe its fine and simple and it will sound great and be a solid 11 sec car. And I can do it in phases. Add a Fast myself too.

Or leave motor alone: Add a $2500 kit plus $1000 in fuel/oil/gaskets plus labor? $2000? I am at $5500 for small turbo but can dial in at 550hp If I want more I can or start breaking stuff. Probbaly leave alone but still more then HCI car in power, not sure if more complicated and as good for DD and resale ?

Supercharger: They seem pricey at $6k for a kit but simple DIY bolt on as is and I am at 550 hp range as well. Little more limited to go up without doing HCI and bigger procharger and more $. Probably more street manners then a turbo?

Anyway I am leaning towards a cam only (plus my stage 2 tranny going in now with 3200 stall) Maybe get a FI style cam that doesnt fall on its face NA so I have options for DIY bolton. It depends on cost to install. If its $2k with parts not worth it. Might wait for turbo/SC setup. I am shopping labor now.
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Old Oct 12, 2017 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Which version of the kit did you read about the install?
Huron V2/V3 install word document on their website.
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Old Oct 12, 2017 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by silvea
Tying your shoes is completely necessary when walking 5 miles. Just because you can do it without doesn't make it unnecessary. In these cars it's all about the cam. On a NA set up its worth like 60+rwhp alone. I'd rather have a proper cam and not use boost as a crutch.
Boost isn't a crutch if anything the cam is the crutch. Saying the cam is more important than the boost is just plain stupid
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Old Oct 12, 2017 | 08:28 AM
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OP - It is going to cost you regardless.

I have a Procharged LS2, a H/C/I LS1 (w/spray), and I am in the process of building TT 4.8L. I can tell you this before even getting the turbo car on the road: Naturally aspirated the HCI engine is the biggest performance disappointment of my life for the money and time spent. But, it sounds awesome!

Get a used Procharger kit and some headers and call it a day. The hardest part is pinning the crank in the car.
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