I would do some searching for 3rd parties who've done their own installs and have some miles on the car. Never hurts to get some neutral opinions.

 

I have about 4k in my used procharger kit. But it's a D1 with 8 rib upgrade 60lb injectors 1 7/8 headers a custom FMIC kit I made myself and 2 fuel pumps. There's deals to be had if youre patient.

 

Please explain yourself.

 

You bought it used and in it for $4k total now? that is not bad.
I will be patient and search for used ones. Would like the CAM/Header maybe to get some speed out of it and maybe thats enough.

 

I actually paid about $2500 for the basic kit, and then separately added a few pulleys, the ATI balancer, an FMIC, piping kit, bigger air filter, injectors, etc. You basically just need to make sure the basic kit includes the brackets/blower/standoffs/idler and then everything else you can purchase when you want to.

 

Spider: thanks but that basic kit was used at $2500. procharger doesnt sell separate? it would be nice to get a SC for $2500 then add pipe,IC,balancer yourself since that is definitely not worth the $3500 more they charge you for the $6000 kit new.

 

Yes, 2500 was the basic kit used. It was a decent deal considering it was a D1 and the 8 rib upgrade. I think Procharger will sell everything separate, but its going to be expensive, just better to be patient and find a used kit like I did.

 

I agree I will wait.

Also to your HCI point. I did a build years ago. 3rd gen iroc. HCI and it was 14.2 and 13.2 on NOS sounded great and fun but by the time LT1 and turbo JDM came out is was walked on.
Hate to be at $4k in to just hold my own for stock cars today... again.

That said, 400+hp cam/intake is all I need today and would be a 12sec car easy LOL but like some bragging rights for my dollar.

You have a procharger and a turbo. Do you like one significantly better then the other for ease of install, cost and maint? For mild boost levels, DD drive duty I figure a SC, if price is the same, is cheaper and easier to install. Also the SC I like for the street at lights. The low end grunt and pull even if it dies up top. But turbo it is easy to change, within reason, the boost and control at will. 8lbs-16lbs with just a tune.

 

Another point, do not underestimate how much BETTER an FI car will drive than an aggressively cammed car. My buddies 5.3 turbo on here drives like stock running 17psi on 93 pump gas....cause its running a small cam and still making a ton of power. On my blower car, my wife takes it to the grocery store LOL. Low overlap is key and let the turbo/blower do the work.

On the blower vs. turbo argument here are my main points for both. Please keep in mine this is my experience from REAL STREET CAR's that are DAILY DRIVEN with A/C and have thousands of miles on them. I'm not looking for a discussion about how easy 1 install is vs. the other on a race car or a street car with 5 miles on it.

Turbo-
-Much easier to control boost.
-Boost hits MUCH harder than a centrifugal blower. Typically this means a meatier torque curve.
-Way more piping under/in front of the engine which crowds things and you have to be careful about melting brake/power steering lines. Stuff tends to bake so you must coat/wrap everything.
-Oiling is important, both feed and drain lines. Plenty of people have issues either starving the turbo and ruining it or not having a proper drain and push oil through the seals.
-Forget about keeping stock puller fans with the kits out there today. This means having a good cooling system and fans is important to keeping the car running cool, especially if you have A/C. I had an old Phamspeed turbo kit that I was able to keep the stock puller fans and it was fantastic, but sacrificed ground clearance.
-Turbo's are cheap, and quality varies. Nothing says your china turbo wont blow up tomorrow. The good news is if it blows up, spend another $300-500 and buy another 1 lol.

Blower-
-Belt alignment can be a PITA on initial install, but if the previous owner included all the parts its straightforward. You also need to pay attention to belt slip as this costs boost.
-Cost of the ATI dampener ($350-400) that you must run is ridiculous in my opinion and is required with an 8 rib upgrade.
-Boost is rpm dependent and very linear unless you choose to add a wastegated setup to the cold side. This means you typically have a better chance at traction and dont have to worry about over boosting like a turbo due to a failure. You can also just rev it higher if you want to make more boost for a given pulley size.
-Engine bay is less cluttered since there is no "hot side", you just run traditional headers and exhaust.
-Blower whine is a love it or hate it deal. Yes the car rattles at idle, but I love the sound and with my cam the car sounds wicked. Nothing like pulling up to a light with a blower hissing away and the cam loping.
-Once you actually buy the blower itself, that is the main expense of the system and they are typically extremely reliable for a long time.

In summary, different strokes for different folks. I <3 turbo's, but not a big fan of any of the kits out there right now. I have a blower car now and am enjoying it. I'll probably go turbo again at some point with a different car, but I would consider fabbing my own kit at that point.

 

You nailed it. Only forgot one thing though, turbo car will be faster. I'M KIDDING!! Well...im not, but was meant as a joke and not meant to ruffle feathers... just having fun.

 

Well played sir.

 

This is so true. For example you could replace a cheap 7875 turbo 4 times before you spend the same amount on a Precision ball bearing 7675.

 

I'm a fan of the China turbos, and even have one myself. But let's not forget, you will not make the power of the precision.

 

No argument there. My point was purely price-related. Both will make "good" power. There's definitely an advantage to a ball bearing vs. journal, but the current cost difference is pretty extreme.

 

Couldn't agree more. Not really relevant to the thread, but just as a data point...i took a 50rwhp/8ft/lb hit going from the precision 7675 to the on3 7875. Like you said, considering the cost difference... it's not too bad of a hit.