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10.27:1 or 9.13:1 with boost

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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 09:36 AM
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Default 10.27:1 or 9.13:1 with boost

Hey all,

I'm at a fork in the road. I'm building a destroked 6.0h. I get why its not a good reason to do this- but this is my most budget friendly solution with the two engines sitting in my garage. I have a gen 4 4.8 rotating assembly and scored a real cheap honed and cleaned 6.0 with milled .030 317 heads.

Cam is 199/209 .529/.529


I also have:



From the 4.8 that now only has good rods and a crank


Soo heres what im looking for help on. I have two forged piston options for my price range. One will yield 9.13:1 the other 10.27:1- I'd love to spin this motor to 7,500-8,000 RPM and run pump gas. Assuming that turbos on the smaller side and i can only achieve 7-12PSI at such a high RPM will 93 support 10.27:1 with a good tune.

Looking for any and all feedback! I'm honestly not even really sure what kind of power this turbo can make or what expectations to have with it. I got it for a great price on my first 4.8 turbo build up and lost the motor from a fueling issue.
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 02:39 PM
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bueller, bueller
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 07:02 PM
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How good is your tuner? There are quite a few "stock" LS1's that have been blown or turbo'd with 10:1 CR and have lived to make good power.

I'd go with the higher CR if it's a street car that you're not leaning on hard (not max boost / power) and you trust your fuel / tuner. My opinion is worth about 2 cents so keep that in consideration.
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 07:37 PM
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My opinion is do 10.2 to 1. It is completely safe with 7 to 12 pounds on 93 with a decent tune. I think you need to get with someone to spec out a valve train that can do 7500-8000 rpm reliably. Last I don't feel that turbo is a good option for this engine spinning 8000 rpm. Just cause these are the parts you have laying around doesn't mean they should all go on the same engine. It won't reach all the goals with out changing some things. It will work but be far from optimal.
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 07:45 PM
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With either CR, you need to dump the turbo and cam for something bigger to get anything other than a low rpm stoplight racer or towing rig. This is coming from a guy who regularly tells people to go smaller on both. The difference is your stated goals vs what I commonly read from other people. You will be massively disappointed if you put the current random batch of parts together.
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 07:56 PM
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sure, that's for the input. I'd be willing to change turbo, I can go down that road. but that changes whether I want to run more boost and take the lower cr
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DjohnsonFTW
sure, that's for the input. I'd be willing to change turbo, I can go down that road. but that changes whether I want to run more boost and take the lower cr
Honestly, you could take either CR past the point of non detonation related part failure with a larger cam and turbo. What strikes me is your rpm goals. The rpm you dictated with the size motor you will have will be making overkill levels of horsepower on the street or an unprepped track with almost any boost. The problem is that cam will support the same torque curve (low rpm) whether boosted or not. The difference is only in how big that torque number is. The turbo will have an "island" where it is most efficient, and on a motor of the size you are building, the efficiency range of that turbo stops well below your stated goals. You could obviously just spin the motor to whatever rpm whether it made power or not, but that is useless noise.
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 10:05 PM
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Build it, run the turbo and see what she does. You have the parts and a budget, if it doesn't meet your goals you can sell the turbo and pick up a cheap CX Racing GT45R.
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by gametech
Honestly, you could take either CR past the point of non detonation related part failure with a larger cam and turbo. What strikes me is your rpm goals. The rpm you dictated with the size motor you will have will be making overkill levels of horsepower on the street or an unprepped track with almost any boost. The problem is that cam will support the same torque curve (low rpm) whether boosted or not. The difference is only in how big that torque number is. The turbo will have an "island" where it is most efficient, and on a motor of the size you are building, the efficiency range of that turbo stops well below your stated goals. You could obviously just spin the motor to whatever rpm whether it made power or not, but that is useless noise.
I honestly am unsure of what this turbo can do. I bought it for a great price and ran it on the stock 4.8 - I just assumed it would feed more as I understand little about turbo still. so- is it safe to assume I should go 10.27:1 . what expectations should I have for max power on this turbo?
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jordoza
My opinion is do 10.2 to 1. It is completely safe with 7 to 12 pounds on 93 with a decent tune. I think you need to get with someone to spec out a valve train that can do 7500-8000 rpm reliably. Last I don't feel that turbo is a good option for this engine spinning 8000 rpm. Just cause these are the parts you have laying around doesn't mean they should all go on the same engine. It won't reach all the goals with out changing some things. It will work but be far from optimal.
okay thanks! I'll just spin it less haha that seems to be anonymous
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