Simple and effective street setup
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Simple and effective street setup My setup has been done a thousand times I'm sure. I'm going to share anyway because there have been several members here who have answered my questions to help me out. I'm not a mechanic or a tuner so if I can do it then it can't be that difficult...LOL.
I did a ton of research to find something that would reach my goals (500+ rwhp now and 600+ rwhp capable with potential for 700+ rwhp) as well as be the easiest possible install.
The first thing I did was put refurbished calipers, new rotors, and pads all the way around it.
Then I addressed the drivetrain and the rear suspension.
Then I did the fuel pump and injectors. I used a drop in dw300c pump and dw 60 lbs injectors. This was the most simple setup I could find that should support my initial goals for cheap. The plan is to switch to a twin pump return setup and switch to E85 down the road. I wanted something cheap and effective now for simplicity and not have a ton of money in it on something that was going to get replaced.
Still none of the boost...
Then the fun stuff...
I still have the stock Trans with a yank 3200ss converter in the car. A built 4l60e is in the plans before next spring when the tracks open up. Eventually a forged 370 is in the plans when this motor lets go. Hopefully it lasts a little while though. Right now it has a 7.65 crank pulley and a 4.25" pulley on the D1X. Cam is a 228r. I had a lot of questions during the build answered by members here as well as Bob at Brutespeed. A lot of questions on tuning and the install mostly dealing with the ATI balancer install just to absolutely make sure I had it right.
Walk around idle video...
I did a ton of research to find something that would reach my goals (500+ rwhp now and 600+ rwhp capable with potential for 700+ rwhp) as well as be the easiest possible install.
The first thing I did was put refurbished calipers, new rotors, and pads all the way around it.
Then I addressed the drivetrain and the rear suspension.
Then I did the fuel pump and injectors. I used a drop in dw300c pump and dw 60 lbs injectors. This was the most simple setup I could find that should support my initial goals for cheap. The plan is to switch to a twin pump return setup and switch to E85 down the road. I wanted something cheap and effective now for simplicity and not have a ton of money in it on something that was going to get replaced.
Still none of the boost...
Then the fun stuff...
I still have the stock Trans with a yank 3200ss converter in the car. A built 4l60e is in the plans before next spring when the tracks open up. Eventually a forged 370 is in the plans when this motor lets go. Hopefully it lasts a little while though. Right now it has a 7.65 crank pulley and a 4.25" pulley on the D1X. Cam is a 228r. I had a lot of questions during the build answered by members here as well as Bob at Brutespeed. A lot of questions on tuning and the install mostly dealing with the ATI balancer install just to absolutely make sure I had it right.
Walk around idle video...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Ok spoke to soon...
I was out doing some logging again dialing the tune in closer. First cruised around and did some part throttle driving everything looking good so I took it up to 4000 rpm. A little rich in boost so I adjusted VE table in that area. Then took it up to 4500 rpm still a little rich, but getting closer. Then took it to 5000 rpm then 5800 rpm at about 72% throttle. Looked real good so I made another small adjustment and took it up to about 6100 rpm at 96% throttle rolling into it. AFR was 11.2 and no knock retard pulled good, but shortly after that the head unit started screaming terribly. I stopped and checked everything out and everything looked good visibly just a terrible sound coming from the head unit itself. Yes I put a full bottle of oil in it and I've done a lot of driving with the car prior to this working on the idle and part throttle cruising as well as a few test runs barely getting into boost over the last week or so without any issues.
What do you guys think?
ETA: Sent the video to Bob and he is getting me a RA# tomorrow for the head unit.
I was out doing some logging again dialing the tune in closer. First cruised around and did some part throttle driving everything looking good so I took it up to 4000 rpm. A little rich in boost so I adjusted VE table in that area. Then took it up to 4500 rpm still a little rich, but getting closer. Then took it to 5000 rpm then 5800 rpm at about 72% throttle. Looked real good so I made another small adjustment and took it up to about 6100 rpm at 96% throttle rolling into it. AFR was 11.2 and no knock retard pulled good, but shortly after that the head unit started screaming terribly. I stopped and checked everything out and everything looked good visibly just a terrible sound coming from the head unit itself. Yes I put a full bottle of oil in it and I've done a lot of driving with the car prior to this working on the idle and part throttle cruising as well as a few test runs barely getting into boost over the last week or so without any issues.
What do you guys think?
ETA: Sent the video to Bob and he is getting me a RA# tomorrow for the head unit.
Last edited by BCNUL8R; Dec 10, 2017 at 12:22 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Pulling the head unit isn't to bad. It was also the helical version. Don't know if that had anything to do with it, but I've read a few complaints about them. I was at about 7.7 pounds of boost at 6100 rpm (estimated by taking map psi minus barometric pressure) so definitely not pushing the blower. Might just have been a fluke. While it may be a minor set back if they take care of it then I've got no complaints.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
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Thank you. Talking with you helped me a bunch prior to starting the tuning side of things.
Pulling the head unit isn't to bad. It was also the helical version. Don't know if that had anything to do with it, but I've read a few complaints about them. I was at about 7.7 pounds of boost at 6100 rpm (estimated by taking map psi minus barometric pressure) so definitely not pushing the blower. Might just have been a fluke. While it may be a minor set back if they take care of it then I've got no complaints.
Pulling the head unit isn't to bad. It was also the helical version. Don't know if that had anything to do with it, but I've read a few complaints about them. I was at about 7.7 pounds of boost at 6100 rpm (estimated by taking map psi minus barometric pressure) so definitely not pushing the blower. Might just have been a fluke. While it may be a minor set back if they take care of it then I've got no complaints.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Update:
Sent the head unit to ATI Monday evening and got it back today. Pretty darn quick so I'm happy about that.
Looking at the packing slip it looks like they replaced a bearing, impeller, seals, and O-rings.
I'll try to get it back on the car this weekend and see how it goes.
Sent the head unit to ATI Monday evening and got it back today. Pretty darn quick so I'm happy about that.
Looking at the packing slip it looks like they replaced a bearing, impeller, seals, and O-rings.
I'll try to get it back on the car this weekend and see how it goes.