6.0, what size turbo?
6.0, what size turbo? So I'm not done with my first build when a offer to good to pass on was dropped on me! 6.0/4l80e out of a 2005 2500 Express with 127k for $1500 I drove it and pulled the motor.
I'll be building it to replace my SBC 421" Nitrous engine in my '64 Nova. The car weighs 3300 with me in it. The car and me are certified to 8.50 and it runs 9.8 now on a 26x8.5 tire.
My plan is to replace bearings, pistons, main/rod/head bolts, and cam only assuming it looks good in there..
Goal is to get drive to the track and run high 8's.
What turbo/boost am I looking at? Also little help on injector and Cam size would help too.
FYI I'm building my first 4.8 JY/sloppy build now for a different ride and I expect my Nitrous motor to last at least another season so I have time and hope to find some deals on used.
I'll be building it to replace my SBC 421" Nitrous engine in my '64 Nova. The car weighs 3300 with me in it. The car and me are certified to 8.50 and it runs 9.8 now on a 26x8.5 tire.
My plan is to replace bearings, pistons, main/rod/head bolts, and cam only assuming it looks good in there..
Goal is to get drive to the track and run high 8's.
What turbo/boost am I looking at? Also little help on injector and Cam size would help too.
FYI I'm building my first 4.8 JY/sloppy build now for a different ride and I expect my Nitrous motor to last at least another season so I have time and hope to find some deals on used.
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Following...I am in the middle of a 4.8 build. I have a 6.0 in my current truck with almost 300,000 on it. I'm hopefully getting a new ride soon so if the 4.8 turns out ok ill be building the 6.0 and boosting it. Does your 6.0 have the 317 heads?
Yep, LQ4 with 317, should have gen 4 rods as well. If it looks like my 4.8 I'm gonna be stoked, it was super clean.
Not sure about the heads but initially I'm thinking Just springs and a trunnion upgrade as long as the rest looks good.
I don't think I'll need to spin it too high so might leave the lifters alone but will probably hog out the holes and drop in bigger push rods to stabilize the valvetrain.
Actually, I should have mentioned that, I'd like to keep max rpm around 6500, feels like that should figure into turbo sizing right?
Not sure about the heads but initially I'm thinking Just springs and a trunnion upgrade as long as the rest looks good.
I don't think I'll need to spin it too high so might leave the lifters alone but will probably hog out the holes and drop in bigger push rods to stabilize the valvetrain.
Actually, I should have mentioned that, I'd like to keep max rpm around 6500, feels like that should figure into turbo sizing right?
Originally Posted by MY_2K_Z
Not sure why your replacing so much in that motor. With 127k I wouldn't touch a thing just do your cam and springs.
I wouldn't do main or rod bolts. And as for bearings I'd pull the caps and take a look but I'd be willing to bet they still look brand new. It's up to you but almost every ls motor I've pulled apart the bearing have been perfect.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,074
Likes: 17
From: sarasota fl
Factory does a pretty good job at building motors.
My van combo had been rolled on its roof, engine was still running, it had to be shut off, and it had a tree branch through the pan=)
Zr1 headgaskets.
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I'm thinking right around 20# of boost is the number and gapping rings is needed. So while I'm int there I'll check stuff out. Main and rod bearings are so cheap why wouldn't I but point taken, I'll take a look before I buy.
I've read mixed reviews on stock pistons around 800whp, primarily wrist pins. Problem is finding pistons with the same weight so I don't need to balance... that might be the reason I don't buy upgraded pistons.
S480 seems to be everyone's favorite, hopefully I can find a decent one used. Probably just go cast.
I've read mixed reviews on stock pistons around 800whp, primarily wrist pins. Problem is finding pistons with the same weight so I don't need to balance... that might be the reason I don't buy upgraded pistons.
S480 seems to be everyone's favorite, hopefully I can find a decent one used. Probably just go cast.
The thing with changing bearings is unless you have an accurate way of checking clearances (outside mic, inside mic, or bore gauge) is you really have no idea what the clearances are. The motor has ran 127k miles so evidently the bearings are ok. Just trying to save you some headache.
S475 will spool a lil faster than the s480. Most guys are setting records with the standard s475. Plenty of turbo for most setups.
As for bearings if motor is still together and runs with good oil psi etc, i wouldnt mess with it. Ive had better luck with leaving the factory high milage sbe together. Just add ls9 gaskets and head studs with a decent turbo cam. Boost it till your happy!
As for bearings if motor is still together and runs with good oil psi etc, i wouldnt mess with it. Ive had better luck with leaving the factory high milage sbe together. Just add ls9 gaskets and head studs with a decent turbo cam. Boost it till your happy!
Thanks all.
What size injectors are needed for this type of setup.
Also Should I assume I need to gap the rings for this type of boost level?
I like running a small tire on a foot brake, am I going to see different boost on the line between the 475 or 480? I hit it now with a decent shot and have a few 1.39 60'.
To sum up where I'm at:
Cam,
springs,
trunnion
Head studs
S475 or S480
Losing
New Bearings
ARP main and rod bolts
Aftermarket Pistons
What size injectors are needed for this type of setup.
Also Should I assume I need to gap the rings for this type of boost level?
I like running a small tire on a foot brake, am I going to see different boost on the line between the 475 or 480? I hit it now with a decent shot and have a few 1.39 60'.
To sum up where I'm at:
Cam,
springs,
trunnion
Head studs
S475 or S480
Losing
New Bearings
ARP main and rod bolts
Aftermarket Pistons
If your going to run on pump gas street and race gas track then 80# injectors should meet your goal but I would go with 120# injectors if buying new for room to grow. Now if your thinking about E85 then youll need 160's or bigger. Gap the rings to .024-.026.
What fuel?
8’s at 3300 (is that race weight, including driver?) would need more than 900whp IMO. 900ish should get you about 150 MPH @ 3300lb a race weight. Assuming you had a damn nice 60’ you could squeak into the 8’s. But you don’t see many 150 trap cars dipping into 8’s. A 1.39 60’ ain’t gonna cut it! I’d shoot for like 1000-1100hp. That will get you trapping in the high 150-160 range and a solid 1.3 will get you in the 8’s. Factory pistons/wrist pins/rods bolts etc. are fine at this level… if tuned correctly… for a while anyway
You have a lot going against you IMO. Weight, Small tire, Low RPM, “street car”, limiting boost to 20 etc… Keeping the rpm “LOW” is gonna hurt you. Loading up the rods with tons of stress at low RPM bends them. Run it up to 7000 or so... If you apply big boost/power/timing after 5k with a loose converter you’ll be much less likely to hurt something.
How much were you willing to spend on machine work and forged internals? But you don’t want to spend the money on a good turbo? I’d put my money into the turbo and fuel system. Short blocks are cheap…
IMO drop in cam/springs/HG. Bolt on the best turbo, fuel system, and driveline you can afford and go racing.
The big box stock S475 ($640 Shipped) might meet your goals, but it would be maxed out. The guys in the 8’s on the S475 aren’t usually 3300+lbs. If you’re budget limited I’d look at the china clone S480 from VS racing. It was on sale around $800 last I looked. Site seems to be down at the moment? Also a pair of china twins can work really well too. Look up wicked69. He has 2 $300ish 61/65 turbos and is making 1000+ at the wheels I believe.
Good luck!
8’s at 3300 (is that race weight, including driver?) would need more than 900whp IMO. 900ish should get you about 150 MPH @ 3300lb a race weight. Assuming you had a damn nice 60’ you could squeak into the 8’s. But you don’t see many 150 trap cars dipping into 8’s. A 1.39 60’ ain’t gonna cut it! I’d shoot for like 1000-1100hp. That will get you trapping in the high 150-160 range and a solid 1.3 will get you in the 8’s. Factory pistons/wrist pins/rods bolts etc. are fine at this level… if tuned correctly… for a while anyway
You have a lot going against you IMO. Weight, Small tire, Low RPM, “street car”, limiting boost to 20 etc… Keeping the rpm “LOW” is gonna hurt you. Loading up the rods with tons of stress at low RPM bends them. Run it up to 7000 or so... If you apply big boost/power/timing after 5k with a loose converter you’ll be much less likely to hurt something.
How much were you willing to spend on machine work and forged internals? But you don’t want to spend the money on a good turbo? I’d put my money into the turbo and fuel system. Short blocks are cheap…
IMO drop in cam/springs/HG. Bolt on the best turbo, fuel system, and driveline you can afford and go racing.
The big box stock S475 ($640 Shipped) might meet your goals, but it would be maxed out. The guys in the 8’s on the S475 aren’t usually 3300+lbs. If you’re budget limited I’d look at the china clone S480 from VS racing. It was on sale around $800 last I looked. Site seems to be down at the moment? Also a pair of china twins can work really well too. Look up wicked69. He has 2 $300ish 61/65 turbos and is making 1000+ at the wheels I believe.
Good luck!
The thing with changing bearings is unless you have an accurate way of checking clearances (outside mic, inside mic, or bore gauge) is you really have no idea what the clearances are. The motor has ran 127k miles so evidently the bearings are ok. Just trying to save you some headache.
I have a sbe 6.0 with a cast s475 1.32. Race weight last season was 3250 in a fox body street car. We went through ours. new bearings, rings, etc. It has Pac springs, LS7 lifters, victor jr intake, Wilson elbow with stock truck throttle body, Bullet cam, and Arp head studs. This is with Holley HP and their 120lb injectors, through a glide and Ptc converter. We've gone 5.80@122 in the 1/8 on 15psi with a 1.33 60'. It's a fairly basic combo and fully confident it has at the very least a mid to low 5.60 in it When we get a little more aggressive with the launch. So if your combination is right high 8s are attainable. But the cheap cast 475 is about at the end of its range. If I had to do it all over again I'd have purchased one of forced inductions better 476 units since we run in a class limited to that. If class restrictions aren't an issue. Put an 80 on it and call it good. Gives you room to grow in the future.
Rick
Rick
Originally Posted by gametech
People have a weirdly pathological need to fix what isn't broken. It usually causes more problems than it fixes.
This buy and send it **** is all new to me. SBC/BBC and 900whp = *** load of cash and that is where I'm coming from.
I like the 120 injector idea, I'll plan on that vs 80's.
480 it is unless the twins thing has legs, had not really thought much about that due to tight quarters of the engine bay, still have and plan to keep my shock towers (full CBR front and Viking coil overs). Would twins be a better option for my config?
I was coming at the 6500 rpm limit to keep the rod ends and lifters happy. If 7000 returns reasonable reliability then I am good with that. Do they hold up to spinning 7k?
I guess if I have the head room and my initial marks don't get me to 8's I'll turn it up and make it happen. Not afraid to kill it and replace it at all but I do like the idea of some sort of longevity, thinking somewhere in the vicinity of 2 years which is like 60-80 passes and 3-4000 miles on the street max.
480 it is unless the twins thing has legs, had not really thought much about that due to tight quarters of the engine bay, still have and plan to keep my shock towers (full CBR front and Viking coil overs). Would twins be a better option for my config?
I was coming at the 6500 rpm limit to keep the rod ends and lifters happy. If 7000 returns reasonable reliability then I am good with that. Do they hold up to spinning 7k?
I guess if I have the head room and my initial marks don't get me to 8's I'll turn it up and make it happen. Not afraid to kill it and replace it at all but I do like the idea of some sort of longevity, thinking somewhere in the vicinity of 2 years which is like 60-80 passes and 3-4000 miles on the street max.
This is what that big bitch looks like in a cramped compartment. Wonder if 2 smaller twins would actually be better. I don't have any power or AC and can low mount the alt.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/0faWoLzEpKOGQLLf2
This is what my SBC looks like.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5AJ9Uu8UFS18gEtr1
https://photos.app.goo.gl/0faWoLzEpKOGQLLf2
This is what my SBC looks like.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5AJ9Uu8UFS18gEtr1