Finally got to our 1/4 Track
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Sunny San Diego
Finally got to our 1/4 Track I did ok out there. 5#'s of boost doesn't compare to 150 shot of Nitrous. 
Plus it was warm.
I forgot how bad C-Bad's track was. We were bouncing all over the place.
1st run of the day. Too much tire pressure. Spun and had to let up. I think I ran a
12.7 Lost my first slip.
Still shifting a bit early, but alot better now.
Best of the day was:
1.8 60ft 12.14 @ 114.3
Tried the 50 shot. Got some KR. Hopefully the 6.0 heads will help.
1.8 60ft 11.86 @ 118.11
Plus it was warm.I forgot how bad C-Bad's track was. We were bouncing all over the place.
1st run of the day. Too much tire pressure. Spun and had to let up. I think I ran a
12.7 Lost my first slip.
Still shifting a bit early, but alot better now.
Best of the day was:
1.8 60ft 12.14 @ 114.3
Tried the 50 shot. Got some KR. Hopefully the 6.0 heads will help.
1.8 60ft 11.86 @ 118.11
Are u sure u were getting the full 5 psi with no slippage? Man 510rwhp and only 114mph sounds really low even with a 3700lbs car. Did u check ur boost gauge at the run? My car traps 114mph with a race weight of 3700lbs which is heavy. I only have 392rwhp though.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Convertibles are tough to get moving. My best time with the stock motor, Vortech (g-trim) & headers was 12.73@108. Ed, those 1/8 mile times you had looked like they would have been mid-11's in the 1/4.
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Ed, I agree..you should be faster. My old t-top car with the turbotech kit ran a best of 11.27 @ 125 on a 1.7 60'. Raceweight was 3680 with me in it. I am not the best 6-speed driver and this was with the stock 3.42 rear and suspension except for lca. I should have gone faster as well. My car dynod 471/542. I later dynod 573/676 and never ran better than 11.3 @ 127.....which doesn't make sense either. What I figured happened was this...dyno run is just 3-5 secs. I'd have enuff fuel pump and injector for the short dyno. Also, the IAT didn't have enuff time to get really high. So then I go to the track, start running lean from the top of second gear on...IAT got really hot....then KR comes and crappy runs. You do the math of and you will see my 11.27@ 125 adds up pretty good with my weight and hp. My 11.3 @ 127 with 573/676 didnt add up. I am NOT knocking you at all...just saying your lower 11s is possible with your current combo. Start logging MAF flow for the whole run and I bet that you will see your numbers dropping by the end of the 1/4. I feel you need to work on first making sure that you are making 500+ rwhp all the way down the track....can check that by logging maf flow. Next you have to get that hp to the ground.....can't tell you how as I never got that figured out myself. Oh...my times were around 80-85ish degrees...600' elevation and 70% humidity. Hopefully you will get to your goals soon! Please know I am not knocking you or your car at all.....I am the last person who can talk.....just want you to be faster and happy with your cars performance!
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Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert
I am hoping for mid 11's on FI. And low 11's on N20. I don't think I can get there. Your right, car is heavy.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,066
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From: Sunny San Diego
You guys are right, the car didn't seem that fast.
I checked my EFI logs and it looks like I maxed the MAF @ about 6k.
I didn't check the boost on every run, but I did hit 5# @ 6k. Timing was a bit low about 15*.
I am hoping I didn't run that fast because boost started out low. My peak HP is @ 6500 and shifts were at 6000-6200
Still have to figure out why I get KR as soon as I hit the button.
I checked my EFI logs and it looks like I maxed the MAF @ about 6k.
I didn't check the boost on every run, but I did hit 5# @ 6k. Timing was a bit low about 15*.
I am hoping I didn't run that fast because boost started out low. My peak HP is @ 6500 and shifts were at 6000-6200
Still have to figure out why I get KR as soon as I hit the button.
Last edited by Ed Blown Vert; Jul 4, 2004 at 08:44 PM.
Ed do you have a dyno sheet? I'd like to see your curve. Just keep asking questions.....sort thru what fits your situation and eventually you'll get your number. How much kr when you hit the button? I wonder if it is a lean spike.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,066
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From: Sunny San Diego
Her was my lastest. It ran pig rich under the curve because one of my LTFT's locked @ +25. It has been fixed.
http://members.***.net/blownz28/proc.../dyno%2050.jpg
KR with the 50 shot was up and down the whole run about 3*.
http://209.242.149.145/efi.jpg
35/18 is a 50 shot. I was running a 35/20. I am going to try a 35/22 and see if that helps.
http://members.***.net/blownz28/proc.../dyno%2050.jpg
KR with the 50 shot was up and down the whole run about 3*.
http://209.242.149.145/efi.jpg
35/18 is a 50 shot. I was running a 35/20. I am going to try a 35/22 and see if that helps.
Last edited by Ed Blown Vert; Jul 4, 2004 at 09:16 PM.
Hey Ed Blown Vert,
Based on the dyno graph u are leaving alot of power on the table from 3100-6500RPM. U need a tune really bad. Another thing is that u are peaking at 7100RPM which is really high (Keep in mind Auto trannies can give u up to 400RPM higher readings on a dyno because of the TC). So assuming u shifted around 6100RPM u left more than 60rwhp right there. (Dont forget u can see 6100RPM on ur tach, but u are actually around 5800RPM or so which make since why u only trapped 114mph.
If i were u i would do the following:
1. Check for belt slippage.
2. Look for a cam that can shift ur power band to the left a little bit. Try peaking around 6400RPM so u can shift ur car around 6700 RPM and get in ur power band sooner.
3. Tune that bad boy as soon as possible.
Good luck
Based on the dyno graph u are leaving alot of power on the table from 3100-6500RPM. U need a tune really bad. Another thing is that u are peaking at 7100RPM which is really high (Keep in mind Auto trannies can give u up to 400RPM higher readings on a dyno because of the TC). So assuming u shifted around 6100RPM u left more than 60rwhp right there. (Dont forget u can see 6100RPM on ur tach, but u are actually around 5800RPM or so which make since why u only trapped 114mph.
If i were u i would do the following:
1. Check for belt slippage.
2. Look for a cam that can shift ur power band to the left a little bit. Try peaking around 6400RPM so u can shift ur car around 6700 RPM and get in ur power band sooner.
3. Tune that bad boy as soon as possible.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,066
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From: Sunny San Diego
It was tuned. But for some reason my LTFT's on bank 1 locked @ +20 instead of zero. It didn't do that at the track. I may change my O2 sensors just to make sure it doesn't do that again.
I logged the dyno, we stopped the run @ 6500.
At the track, EFI was showing my 1-2 shifts @ 6100 and 2-3 @ 6200. (Are you saying the EFI is also wrong??) I kept moving up the shifts 100 rpms at a time but they would not change. Next time I will change the mph.
Thanks for the help.
I logged the dyno, we stopped the run @ 6500.
At the track, EFI was showing my 1-2 shifts @ 6100 and 2-3 @ 6200. (Are you saying the EFI is also wrong??) I kept moving up the shifts 100 rpms at a time but they would not change. Next time I will change the mph.
Thanks for the help.
Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert
It was tuned. But for some reason my LTFT's on bank 1 locked @ +20 instead of zero. It didn't do that at the track. I may change my O2 sensors just to make sure it doesn't do that again.
I logged the dyno, we stopped the run @ 6500.
At the track, EFI was showing my 1-2 shifts @ 6100 and 2-3 @ 6200. (Are you saying the EFI is also wrong??) I kept moving up the shifts 100 rpms at a time but they would not change. Next time I will change the mph.
Thanks for the help.
I logged the dyno, we stopped the run @ 6500.
At the track, EFI was showing my 1-2 shifts @ 6100 and 2-3 @ 6200. (Are you saying the EFI is also wrong??) I kept moving up the shifts 100 rpms at a time but they would not change. Next time I will change the mph.
Thanks for the help.
If it was reading 20+ that means u have a bad O2 sensor or a damaged 02 sensor wire due to being close to the headers (It happened to me before). If EFI lived showed that u stopped the run at 6500RPM that means ur TC is 600RPM off on the dyno which is a normal thing.
EFI Live is always on the money.... Its never off. I thought u were looking at ur stock Tach when u said 6100RPM which lead me to believe u were around 5500RPM due to the 600RPM difference from the stock Tach and TC.
Anyways if u are peaking at 6500RPM according to EFI live then u have to shift ur car at 6700RPM at the least to get back in the power band. I still think u should tune the car between 2500-5900RPM(Taking 600RPM off due to the TC). Im sure u can make more power under that area if u lean it to 12.0 AF.
Good luck man
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Sunny San Diego
Its weird that I sometimes get the +20 on bank 1. If I clear the LTFT's they go back to normal and lock at zero.
Now I understand. I'll keep trying to bump up the shifts, but not sure if I want to shift @ 6700
It was tuned under the curve. AFR was 12:0
I will hit the 1/8 mile track this Fri to work on the shifts. Thanks again.
Now I understand. I'll keep trying to bump up the shifts, but not sure if I want to shift @ 6700
It was tuned under the curve. AFR was 12:0
I will hit the 1/8 mile track this Fri to work on the shifts. Thanks again.
Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert
Its weird that I sometimes get the +20 on bank 1. If I clear the LTFT's they go back to normal and lock at zero.
Now I understand. I'll keep trying to bump up the shifts, but not sure if I want to shift @ 6700
It was tuned under the curve. AFR was 12:0
I will hit the 1/8 mile track this Fri to work on the shifts. Thanks again.
Now I understand. I'll keep trying to bump up the shifts, but not sure if I want to shift @ 6700
It was tuned under the curve. AFR was 12:0
I will hit the 1/8 mile track this Fri to work on the shifts. Thanks again.
Im saying go to 6700RPM because u should shift 200RPM at the least above ur peak numbers so u can drop in the highest place possible in ur power band. What kind of springs are u running?
Ur AF doesnt look like 12.0 AF all the way accross the power band. I see 12.0 just at the end of the run (6500RPM based on ur EFI live run). SC'd cars should go from leaner to richer until red line(They build boost by RPM). So if u can get someone to tune ur car again and get u a 12.5 AF from 3K RPM and ends at 11.8 AF at red line that would be perfect and will generate more power than what u have now.
Good luck.
I wonder why you are peaking so high....also, looking at your dyno, aren't tq/hp supposed to cross at 5250? That ricjness was definitely costing you some power which means you should be able to run your ideal numbers for sure
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Sunny San Diego
I'll check on the sensor this week.
Springs are Comp Duals. I am more worried about the bottom.
I understand what you are saying on the afr. On another dyno, afr was 12.0
The LTFT's screwed up, and on that run afr was rich. It was not that way at the track.
This is the previous dyno
http://members.***.net/blownz28/procharger/dyno.jpg
The reason the lines don't cross at 5250 is the both scales are different.
Springs are Comp Duals. I am more worried about the bottom.
I understand what you are saying on the afr. On another dyno, afr was 12.0
The LTFT's screwed up, and on that run afr was rich. It was not that way at the track.
This is the previous dyno
http://members.***.net/blownz28/procharger/dyno.jpg
The reason the lines don't cross at 5250 is the both scales are different.
Last edited by Ed Blown Vert; Jul 5, 2004 at 09:57 AM.