Calling all turbo daily drivers
What a beast! Cool truck, a genuine hotrod with a lot of "used what I had" thinking which is probably why its done and running.
Is there an oil cooler? In not that too would probably help a lot. You have room so I think id add a second rad its easy and aside from the extra weight its also thrifty $ wise which is always nice. Increasing coolant volume will help greatly
Is there an oil cooler? In not that too would probably help a lot. You have room so I think id add a second rad its easy and aside from the extra weight its also thrifty $ wise which is always nice. Increasing coolant volume will help greatly
My last turbo build had a cowl hood and no fenderwells liners and I could actually see the hot air flowing out on hot days. I don't remember off the top of my head how much it dropped the temps, but if remember right, it went from running almost 240 to 200-210.
I went through this a while back also. Mine would never get hot, it stayed around 220-225F but my IAT in the intake would heatsoak like crazy. I popped 2 2 1/2 inch holes in the hood and alleviated some of it. Also dropped my coolant temps to about 205-207F.
It doesnt look terrible, i kinda dimpled the holes. But my engine gets wet when it rains, go figure. Ive thought about getting some stick on ricer scoops to cover them and still may. Cowl hood would help imo but for my ranger they are pretty pricey
It doesnt look terrible, i kinda dimpled the holes. But my engine gets wet when it rains, go figure. Ive thought about getting some stick on ricer scoops to cover them and still may. Cowl hood would help imo but for my ranger they are pretty pricey
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Thanks cam! Genuine hotrod, damn right! I don't have the fastest ride around but I pride myself on building it myself and using mostly rusty trash laying around on the floor to build it!!!
I don't have an oil cooler. Thought about adding one. My " T " fitting coming off of the oil pan to feed the gauge and turbo feed line could be "T'd" again adding a line to an oil cooler I suppose?
So far since adding the larger rad, the temps haven't been too crazy.
Yup, a cowl hood and or vents in the hood may be in my future.
The crazy thing is that my hotside is VERY close to my charge pipe going into the TB after putting in this larger radiator. The IAT which I posted doesn't seem too terrible. I got a bunch of mandrel bends I will probably redo a portion of my hotside and the last bend in the charge pipe just to get them away from each other and further wrap the hotside.
The cheap header wrap sucks. It's what I have on currently. It is better than nothing but it sloughs off and leaves you itchy. I can pop the hood and see it shedding on a windy day.....
I think the better wrap is the lava stuff. That's what my turbo blanket is and it never seems to slough off or leave me itchy. I have read however that it will not come off of the turbo after install due to shrinking but for what it costs I sure can't bitch!!
Yeah that is crazy seeing the heat from that. The world needs more turbo LS swapped ratrod shitbox trucks. Of course I say that in the most endearing fashion. I referred to mine as a rat rod and a buddy said, " A ratrod with power windows??!!? I think not!!!"
I don't have an oil cooler. Thought about adding one. My " T " fitting coming off of the oil pan to feed the gauge and turbo feed line could be "T'd" again adding a line to an oil cooler I suppose?
So far since adding the larger rad, the temps haven't been too crazy.
Yup, a cowl hood and or vents in the hood may be in my future.
The crazy thing is that my hotside is VERY close to my charge pipe going into the TB after putting in this larger radiator. The IAT which I posted doesn't seem too terrible. I got a bunch of mandrel bends I will probably redo a portion of my hotside and the last bend in the charge pipe just to get them away from each other and further wrap the hotside.
The cheap header wrap sucks. It's what I have on currently. It is better than nothing but it sloughs off and leaves you itchy. I can pop the hood and see it shedding on a windy day.....
I think the better wrap is the lava stuff. That's what my turbo blanket is and it never seems to slough off or leave me itchy. I have read however that it will not come off of the turbo after install due to shrinking but for what it costs I sure can't bitch!!
Yeah that is crazy seeing the heat from that. The world needs more turbo LS swapped ratrod shitbox trucks. Of course I say that in the most endearing fashion. I referred to mine as a rat rod and a buddy said, " A ratrod with power windows??!!? I think not!!!"
Exhaust is wrapped. Turbo has a blanket. The dual rad is an interesting idea. A friend told me about a car he used to parade with and to make it run cooler he simply added to large holding tanks for water thereby increasing the capacity.
I always disliked cowl hoods kinda simply for the fact that most people, around here anyways were just posers putting cowl hoods on boring stock stuff lol. I suppose it might actually be warranted in my case so I'm considering it!
I have the fenderwells out to further help airflow.
No trans cooler in this one! Running my 32 spline Frankenstein T56.
Here is a rambletron video I made not too long ago, you can see the engine and underhood from 2:15 to 5:45 roughly. The radiator in this video I have since replaced with one twice as thick/deep?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceq_kx6i32Q&t=1010s
I always disliked cowl hoods kinda simply for the fact that most people, around here anyways were just posers putting cowl hoods on boring stock stuff lol. I suppose it might actually be warranted in my case so I'm considering it!
I have the fenderwells out to further help airflow.
No trans cooler in this one! Running my 32 spline Frankenstein T56.
Here is a rambletron video I made not too long ago, you can see the engine and underhood from 2:15 to 5:45 roughly. The radiator in this video I have since replaced with one twice as thick/deep?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceq_kx6i32Q&t=1010s
The nature of a turbo set up....its nothing but a big giant heat mess......everywhere.
Unless you have a some other issue with cooling that you/we are not aware of.....I think your main issue is having no "shroud".
If I were you, and owned that truck.....because you are obviously capable of doing it yourself......Get some nice shiny thin sheet metal and make yourself a shroud that keeps the fans as far away from the rear surface of the radiator as possible. Maybe 1 inch at least, 2 inches even better. Completely seal it all the way around the outer edge of the radiator. So ALL of the pulled through air can only exit through the fans. Then in the front, make sure the ram air deflecting upward off the lower air dam also can only go up and rearward to impact the front of the radiator.
I think your problems will be more than solved if you do that. Because right now, the front/rear surface area of the radiator that has no fan covering it, is wasted. Then at speed if the air deflecting upward and towards the radiator is being dispersed all over the place and not ALL going into the radiators' front surface. Thats a huge waste of efficiency. Both when running on fans only and at speed....same bad efficiency.
It doesn't let your fans work to their potential.
Get that shroud on your truck done...I think it'll solve your issues....or at least reduce the issue a lot.
For example: And I would put large flapper doors on the back of the shroud so when you're on the highway cruising those doors will push open and allow the air to pass through better. They will stay pulled shut when the fans are running through suction from the front side of the fans.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-R...JWbtZn&vxp=mtr
.
Last edited by LS6427; Apr 23, 2018 at 08:53 AM.
Didn't have the time to read everyone's post. I daily drive a LQ4 swapped 2000 Camaro with a s484 96/88 1.58ar and have had 0 issues with keeping my car cool. Also haven't even rapped any part of hot side, (huron speed t6 v2 kit). Car is also ran on E85 which may have helped. I currently run 2 16295 derale fans that absolutely kick ***. Jon at Huron Speed recommended these to me. I've driven this car an hour strait on a busy road with traffic in 90 degree days. I did have an issue with my cooling system at first. I filled it way to quick from being an empty engine and got air bubbles inside. A simple fix for me which some people don't recommend is running an open thermostat. Has been over a year now and still no issue at all. My fans also now turn on at 199 and turns off at 185. Takes about 3 minutes for the car to drop down to the 180s with the fans being on. Hope this helps
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Thanks LS6427!
I actually thought about doing some kind of supplemental shroud type thing. I may have to eventually. For now, everything seems to be running cool.
Might have to steal this guys idea for an upper rad shroud:
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...bef1f593e0.jpg
Still haven't figured out how to make the fans go off at the commanded speed even though I believe the settings are correct in the tune. Tuning laptop crapped out and a new one will be here tomorrow. Going to try swithing the fan settings from "2 Fans" to "Aux fan" and see if that will fix the fan staying on above 35 MPH, EVEN though the damn thing is set to shut off at that speed?
I actually thought about doing some kind of supplemental shroud type thing. I may have to eventually. For now, everything seems to be running cool.
Might have to steal this guys idea for an upper rad shroud:
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...bef1f593e0.jpg
Still haven't figured out how to make the fans go off at the commanded speed even though I believe the settings are correct in the tune. Tuning laptop crapped out and a new one will be here tomorrow. Going to try swithing the fan settings from "2 Fans" to "Aux fan" and see if that will fix the fan staying on above 35 MPH, EVEN though the damn thing is set to shut off at that speed?
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Yeah, that's the material of my turbo blanket and it's MUCH better. I have read reviews from the place that I bought it that if you try to remove it from the turbine it will fall apart. No big deal there as cheap as it was.
But it definitely looks better and has no indication of falling apart like that cheap fiberglass **** does lol.
But it definitely looks better and has no indication of falling apart like that cheap fiberglass **** does lol.
The cheap Ebay "titanium" wrap I've used is still just fiber glass. It's not the nice Lava rock stuff DEI sells. But it does work well.
I find if you paint the piping first with BBQ grill paint, then wrap tight using SS wire to secure it (HF sells this dirt cheap). It works much better. Also when done, I spray ALOT of BBQ grill paint on the wrap and let it soak in. It helps seal it and keep moisture and other crap out while helping it hold its shape. Stays together 2-3x as long in my experience.
If your temps aren’t “running away” and staying steady I think your cooling system is fine. Get a 160 (high flow) thermo in there and run a real fan. 2500cfm is garbage. Stock Fbody fans flow about 10,000CFM. Run a set of those and be done.
I find if you paint the piping first with BBQ grill paint, then wrap tight using SS wire to secure it (HF sells this dirt cheap). It works much better. Also when done, I spray ALOT of BBQ grill paint on the wrap and let it soak in. It helps seal it and keep moisture and other crap out while helping it hold its shape. Stays together 2-3x as long in my experience.
If your temps aren’t “running away” and staying steady I think your cooling system is fine. Get a 160 (high flow) thermo in there and run a real fan. 2500cfm is garbage. Stock Fbody fans flow about 10,000CFM. Run a set of those and be done.
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Interesting combination of steps on the wrap and BBQ paint.
Temps are really fine so far. The fan staying on at above 35 MPH is still a big ******* mystery, even though the tune has it set to shut off at 35 MPH.
2500 CFM is working for now anyways. I'm fairly limited on fan options because my charge pipe is in the way on one side.
Temps are really fine so far. The fan staying on at above 35 MPH is still a big ******* mystery, even though the tune has it set to shut off at 35 MPH.
2500 CFM is working for now anyways. I'm fairly limited on fan options because my charge pipe is in the way on one side.
Fans are super easy to chop up and fiberglass if you need to. Getting a lower temp high flow thermo in there will help. You can also research removing the thermo. This will cool the best if done correctly. You need to block off a port in the water pump to do it properly. Also don’t “loop” the heater lines if you don’t have a heater hooked up. You don’t want the high/low side of the system connected like that.
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Yeah I riveted pieces of an old license plate onto a fan once to restore the shroud after somebody fuckered the shroud.
Heater is plumbed in as it's a full weight street truck that still serves all sorts of daily driver pickup truck duties. Nothing is as satisfying as waxing someone in a "performance car" then whipping into the hardware store to load up a stack of 3/4" plywood LOL.
Heater is plumbed in as it's a full weight street truck that still serves all sorts of daily driver pickup truck duties. Nothing is as satisfying as waxing someone in a "performance car" then whipping into the hardware store to load up a stack of 3/4" plywood LOL.
Interesting combination of steps on the wrap and BBQ paint.
Temps are really fine so far. The fan staying on at above 35 MPH is still a big ******* mystery, even though the tune has it set to shut off at 35 MPH.
2500 CFM is working for now anyways. I'm fairly limited on fan options because my charge pipe is in the way on one side.
Temps are really fine so far. The fan staying on at above 35 MPH is still a big ******* mystery, even though the tune has it set to shut off at 35 MPH.
2500 CFM is working for now anyways. I'm fairly limited on fan options because my charge pipe is in the way on one side.
Dont have any experience with the material but someone in the import world used the Cerakote stuff before wrapping the hot side and had some positive results. High CFM fans, a good radiator (i use a Griffin dual pass), and proper ducting/airflow seems to help a great deal.
Fans are super easy to chop up and fiberglass if you need to. Getting a lower temp high flow thermo in there will help. You can also research removing the thermo. This will cool the best if done correctly. You need to block off a port in the water pump to do it properly. Also dont loop the heater lines if you dont have a heater hooked up. You dont want the high/low side of the system connected like that.
There is a pressure differential between the 2 to promote flow through a heater core. Looping them joins the high/low side of the cooling system. That allows the fluid to bypass the rad./thermo. It also disrupts flow a tad. Lots of people do it, and if your cooling system isn’t already taxed it will likely still cool fine. That doesn’t make it the best practice. The system will work better if plugged. Just smash an object in the “loop tube” so it doesn’t allow flow between the two ports. Or tap and plug them.
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I think I found my problem.... Apparently it IS possible to install the LS9 gaskets backwards???? I found a thread where the tab is supposed to be towards the front of the block rather than the rear..... Well somehow I ended up putting one of the gaskets on backwards, supposing that theory is true....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...backwards.html
On a cold start with the rad cap off, I can rev the engine and watch coolant bubble and even splash up out of the filler neck. Thus further confirming my suspicion of having one of the LS9 gaskets on backwards..
Rather than get too upset about this, I used this as an excuse to ditch the stock cam and stock valvesprings.... Since I'm going to have to pull at least the one head to correct the gasket I ordered the following:
Sloppy stage 2 cam
Pac 1218 springs
2 additional LS9 gaskets
Set of LS7 lifters
ARP moly-lube
What's crazy is that the thing runs like a striped *** ape even with one of the gaskets backwards...... Can anyone confirm the notion that you can in fact install the LS9 gaskets backwards????
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...backwards.html
On a cold start with the rad cap off, I can rev the engine and watch coolant bubble and even splash up out of the filler neck. Thus further confirming my suspicion of having one of the LS9 gaskets on backwards..
Rather than get too upset about this, I used this as an excuse to ditch the stock cam and stock valvesprings.... Since I'm going to have to pull at least the one head to correct the gasket I ordered the following:
Sloppy stage 2 cam
Pac 1218 springs
2 additional LS9 gaskets
Set of LS7 lifters
ARP moly-lube
What's crazy is that the thing runs like a striped *** ape even with one of the gaskets backwards...... Can anyone confirm the notion that you can in fact install the LS9 gaskets backwards????