Calling all turbo daily drivers
Usually quite a bit! Depends on boost levels... anything you gain NA will almost double per bar of boost run. Not uncommon to see 100+hp gains from a cam swap if you run decent boost. 30-60 NA crank HP is pretty typical on a 6.0 with a moderate cam.
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Well that is very encouraging!
Just got an email that the cam shipped out already!!!
Also, going to be doing the cam install in the truck. Any pointers on doing this? I've never removed or installed a LS cam. Any need to replace the timing chain?
Just got an email that the cam shipped out already!!!
Also, going to be doing the cam install in the truck. Any pointers on doing this? I've never removed or installed a LS cam. Any need to replace the timing chain?
Last edited by ElQueFør; May 3, 2018 at 05:33 PM.
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Chain is fine to reuse, as long as it's not stretched. Be sure to keep the lifters supported, and don't be like a bull in a China shop when installing the cam. Not sure there's much else to say.
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Appreciate it man. I actually have LS7 lifters on order and intended to replace them since I'll be pulling one head to fix the backwards gasket, figured I'd pull them both and have a peek at the lifters.
Not sure if it needs lifters, it does make the typical LS lifter noise not sure if they need attention or not yet.
Stupid question but how can you tell if chain is stretched?
Not sure if it needs lifters, it does make the typical LS lifter noise not sure if they need attention or not yet.
Stupid question but how can you tell if chain is stretched?
The Gen3 timing chain is crap compared to the gen4 stuff. If you have a gen3, change it.
Can see the difference here.
If you’ve got it apart, throw a decent timing set on it. I kind of hate the sloppy STG2 cam just because everyone thinks it’s a “one size fits all” cam. (it’s not!) I understand the cheap appeal though.
With that cam I’d buy a decent aftermarket timing set that allowed you to advance that cam 3-4*. Cloyes makes a good adjustable single roller chain. I wouldn’t run a double roller... they usually require clearancing.
Can see the difference here.
If you’ve got it apart, throw a decent timing set on it. I kind of hate the sloppy STG2 cam just because everyone thinks it’s a “one size fits all” cam. (it’s not!) I understand the cheap appeal though.
With that cam I’d buy a decent aftermarket timing set that allowed you to advance that cam 3-4*. Cloyes makes a good adjustable single roller chain. I wouldn’t run a double roller... they usually require clearancing.
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Thanks. Any part numbers on a specific gen IV chain? And will it work with my current timing gears?
Yeah I know there is no one size fits all cam. Just want something better than stock for cheap lol.
Yeah I know there is no one size fits all cam. Just want something better than stock for cheap lol.
Negative. Timing set is a matched pair. You replace gears and chain as one. And if you are going to do that, you’ll like the cam alot more 3-4* advanced IMO. Just throw an aftermarket adjustable timing set on there and advance it.
BTR racing sells the OEM gen4 timing sets if you want to skip that advice.
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ch...-12646386.html
BTR racing sells the OEM gen4 timing sets if you want to skip that advice.
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ch...-12646386.html
You’re basically shifting the power band a bit giving up some top end power. It will be less of a turd through the low/mid range with the cam advanced. If you aren’t revving the thing out to 7k+ you don’t need the top end power anyway. Since you’re running the factory intake, you won’t make good power up there anyway.
It will make it “snappy” down low. This is why when you look at all the “non sloppy” turbo cams out there they have similar durations/lifts, but usually have a +3 or +4 after the title. Meaning the 3-4* of advance are already ground in to that cam shaft.
It will make it “snappy” down low. This is why when you look at all the “non sloppy” turbo cams out there they have similar durations/lifts, but usually have a +3 or +4 after the title. Meaning the 3-4* of advance are already ground in to that cam shaft.
5.3 front mount turbo with lots a piping under the hood, so it gets hot. I run a flowkooler mech pump and stock crank pulley. 160 Tstat (doesn’t open till 170 tested in boiling water). AFCO dual 1” core 31x19 rad with 30/70 mix and eBay stock fans from a Chevy traverse. They are dual 13” fans and pull a good bit of air! Running dual temp fan control with pcm fan 1 180on/170off , fan 2 190on/180off. It’s been 80-90s here and will get hotter. Boost logs show 180s engine temp but will fluctuate from 170s-190, usually in the 180s. I haven’t done a lot of highway driving yet with the turbo but it doesn’t get over 190 often. My 87TA has no bumper opening and is fully bottom feeding and doesn’t have an issue with a 31x12x 3” FMIC and a Ford superduty (mini radiator) trans cooler in front of my rad.
Get a decent 2 core aluminum rad with 1” cores and derale fans or good OE fans and call it a day. All that bullshit that becool says about 400hp cooling, 600hp cooling is crap. They use the same radiators and just give you better fans. So get a decent rad and a decent shrouded fan setup that covers 80-90% of the core minimum and you should be good.
Get a decent 2 core aluminum rad with 1” cores and derale fans or good OE fans and call it a day. All that bullshit that becool says about 400hp cooling, 600hp cooling is crap. They use the same radiators and just give you better fans. So get a decent rad and a decent shrouded fan setup that covers 80-90% of the core minimum and you should be good.
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Hey guys I have an update on my overheating issue.
I pulled off the one head that I though I had on backwards becuase of the tab on the MLS gasket being towards the rear rather than the front like it is supposed to be.
Sure enough, where the label FRONT was printed on the head gasket itself, it was on the back.... So I had that one head gasket on backwards.
I will have it all fixed up here in a few days with the gaskets on correctly, and the new Sloppy Stage 2 cam installed. Got some new LS7 lifters to put in just in case, LS2 timing chain b/c it was super cheap a Trick Flow timing damper and some PAC 1218 springs....
Is it bad that I have been sneaking around this whole time on stock valve springs hahahaha???
Okay I have a question... I know that the LS9 or otherwise MLS style gaskets can be installed backwards as in my case.... If I lay the HG on the head on the bench I can see that IF it is installed backwards that there is at least one coolant passage that is blocked off on the back. Maybe two passages back there I don't have it in front of me at the moment. Anyways... Why is it that it matters so much if it's blocked off in the back vs the front??? I mean, either way it is blocked off in either the front or the back.
I pulled off the one head that I though I had on backwards becuase of the tab on the MLS gasket being towards the rear rather than the front like it is supposed to be.
Sure enough, where the label FRONT was printed on the head gasket itself, it was on the back.... So I had that one head gasket on backwards.
I will have it all fixed up here in a few days with the gaskets on correctly, and the new Sloppy Stage 2 cam installed. Got some new LS7 lifters to put in just in case, LS2 timing chain b/c it was super cheap a Trick Flow timing damper and some PAC 1218 springs....
Is it bad that I have been sneaking around this whole time on stock valve springs hahahaha???
Okay I have a question... I know that the LS9 or otherwise MLS style gaskets can be installed backwards as in my case.... If I lay the HG on the head on the bench I can see that IF it is installed backwards that there is at least one coolant passage that is blocked off on the back. Maybe two passages back there I don't have it in front of me at the moment. Anyways... Why is it that it matters so much if it's blocked off in the back vs the front??? I mean, either way it is blocked off in either the front or the back.
On The Tree
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From: Amelia, Ohio
LOL Reading through this thread I decided to take a quick look at the tabs on my head gaskets and sure enough, I put at least one on backwards. (I'm at work, so progress pics are all I can look at lol)
Jesus. a legit bonehead mistake.
Jesus. a legit bonehead mistake.
It’s because the heads can be run on either side of the motor so the gaskets will line up with a RH or LH head ports as long as you have the gasket facing the correct direction. Other gaskets are RH and LH specific. You are promoting flow in a specific direction when installed correctly. With it installed backwards you will not have free flow. This will cause hot spots in the head at minimum and possibly the block as well. Could even warp things depending on how hot it gets. What’s even worse is depending where the coolant temp probe is it may report back normal temps. while on one side of the motor may have temps through the roof. It’s a bad deal all around. Hope it didn’t damage anything.
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Andler don't worry too much about it man, I know you and I aren't the only ones to make that mistake from reading around.
Forcefed- Thanks for explaining the reasoning, that makes sense. How would I know if it fucked something up?? Everything seems ok, it was running great and only occasionally seemed to want to overheat. I never let it get too warm when I was driving it around.
The coolant temp probe was located on the same side that I accidentally put the HG on backwards.
Forcefed- Thanks for explaining the reasoning, that makes sense. How would I know if it fucked something up?? Everything seems ok, it was running great and only occasionally seemed to want to overheat. I never let it get too warm when I was driving it around.
The coolant temp probe was located on the same side that I accidentally put the HG on backwards.
Last edited by ElQueFør; May 21, 2018 at 04:17 PM.
Probably fine....the LS9 gasket is pretty forgiving. With the engine in the car a machinist’s flat edge along the deck and head with a feeler gauge is about all you can do with the block, do same to head. Run the pistons to BDC and look for cracks. Look the head over well for cracks around the valves. Take it in to be resurfaced if you want to do things “right”. Buying a known good head is another option. Depending on availability sometimes buying a used known good head is cheapest. Picked up my last pair of 706 heads for $40. Think they are worth that in scrap aluminum, and was cheaper than resurfacing.
In the end, it’s a JY motor, so probably money and time ahead just slapping it back together. If it overheats and acts weird buy another long block and slap it in. Don’t fart around with a questionable motor, it will nickle and dime you to death.
In the end, it’s a JY motor, so probably money and time ahead just slapping it back together. If it overheats and acts weird buy another long block and slap it in. Don’t fart around with a questionable motor, it will nickle and dime you to death.
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Thanks Forcefed. I'm thinking it's OK too since the coolant temp sensor was in the head with the backwards gasket, I was monitoring the temp on the problematic and hot side that way. I will probably just clean the deck surfaces real well and slap it back together yep. Can still see crosshatch in the bores, Most of the lifters looked perfect but a couple were starting to shown scratch lines all the way around.
And I've been monitoring this pretty closelly the whole time I've been running the engine. When I noticed it was running warm and acting weird I made sure to drive it easily, short shifting and staying out of boost, keeping the revs down etc. These LS engines are tough, and since I've been decently careful with it during these episodes I think it will be OK. Going to put some more work in on it tonight.
And I've been monitoring this pretty closelly the whole time I've been running the engine. When I noticed it was running warm and acting weird I made sure to drive it easily, short shifting and staying out of boost, keeping the revs down etc. These LS engines are tough, and since I've been decently careful with it during these episodes I think it will be OK. Going to put some more work in on it tonight.
From what I’ve seen quoted so far for numbers, you’re worrying about nothing at all. Most gen 4 ls stuff sits at 210-215 all day long, my cars I have fan on at 210 and off at 200, 195* thermo. I’d bump my temps up so the fans will come off and on above the thermo setting and see how she runs.