Lq9 twin turbo build for 77 TA
05-16-2018, 09:46 AM
#121
again your over complicating it, use a aem meth kit it has its own map , no need to use a in/output . also the holeey system has a fuel pressure sensor, and you can set up safety measure under boost icf configurations wiyh the holley....basicly if boost goes to high shuts ignition and or fuel or if fuel pressure is low the same....
holley will do any thing you can imagine
holley will do any thing you can imagine
05-16-2018, 05:55 PM
#122
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Good to know, jasonsnova. Thanks a lot.
Does anyone have any input on what I should be to get from the donor vehicle that the engine comes from if at all possible? Sounds like the gas peddle and all its bracketry is one thing.ill probably go with a Holley or some other after market ecu, so I guess that negates the need for the original factory ecu.
Does anyone have any input on what I should be to get from the donor vehicle that the engine comes from if at all possible? Sounds like the gas peddle and all its bracketry is one thing.ill probably go with a Holley or some other after market ecu, so I guess that negates the need for the original factory ecu.
05-17-2018, 06:05 AM
#123
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And I have yet another question that's addressing the issue of putting a turbo engine with a manual transmission. I found this 2-Step device that was discussed on another forum.
https://www.lingenfelter.com/PROD.html?product_code=L460105297
Is this the solution to my problems? I haven't had a chance to look over the instructions yet but I imagine this takes at least an input or an output if not one of each. That coupled with my fuel tank could be problematic for the Holley HP. I'll have to do a little more research. I may be running out of inputs already.
https://www.lingenfelter.com/PROD.html?product_code=L460105297
Is this the solution to my problems? I haven't had a chance to look over the instructions yet but I imagine this takes at least an input or an output if not one of each. That coupled with my fuel tank could be problematic for the Holley HP. I'll have to do a little more research. I may be running out of inputs already.
05-30-2018, 11:23 AM
#125
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Do you guys have opinions or input on when to buy? As I've stated, this could be sitting for a couple years. My thought is unforeseen circumstances could make prices go up .I don't see any reason why prices on basically anything- but I'm talking more specifically about core 6.2 engines- would go down.
I'm very tempted to buy the L9H now or soon. The bad part of doing something like this is I lose any warranties the engine comes with by the time I get to it. The positive side is that if prices on these go up for whatever reason or if they become hard to find, I will have one sitting on my shelf ready to go.
What are your thoughts? I even considered buying the engine and whole mechanical setup saving only the electronics for time of install because, as was mentioned earlier in the thread, the electronics will most likely be far more up to date in 2 yrs.
Are there any such as the Holley that support a phone app for live system monitoring via Bluetooth connection? That would negate the need to carry around a PC. It could be done directly from our phones. I think that'd be sweet and is the next step in development of the electronics. I sent a message to Holley asking if they had anything like this or if it was in development but I didn't hear back from them.
I'm very tempted to buy the L9H now or soon. The bad part of doing something like this is I lose any warranties the engine comes with by the time I get to it. The positive side is that if prices on these go up for whatever reason or if they become hard to find, I will have one sitting on my shelf ready to go.
What are your thoughts? I even considered buying the engine and whole mechanical setup saving only the electronics for time of install because, as was mentioned earlier in the thread, the electronics will most likely be far more up to date in 2 yrs.
Are there any such as the Holley that support a phone app for live system monitoring via Bluetooth connection? That would negate the need to carry around a PC. It could be done directly from our phones. I think that'd be sweet and is the next step in development of the electronics. I sent a message to Holley asking if they had anything like this or if it was in development but I didn't hear back from them.
06-04-2018, 05:22 AM
#126
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Anyone have an opinion on whether it's be nice to buy the block and hardware components now or whether it'd be better to wait until I'm actually gonna build it. What will happen with LS core engine prices over the next couple years in the realm of the aluminum 6.2s? I'd like to get all the hardware now while it's fresh in my head and save only the electrical controls for actual build time.
06-07-2018, 09:25 PM
#127
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I spent some time talking to Byron at VS racing today. Byron and I discussed the build and how I was planning to use a L9H to make 800rwhp . He too echoed some of the people on this board with the 5.3 idea. He has suggested a L33 5.3. I have a line on one right now for $850 and it has 152,xxx miles .What do you guys think?
What will be different if I do go with this? I imagine it'll make sure lot less torque and especially down low in the RPM band than the L9H. since this is a gen IV VS Racing hss suggested the forged rotating assembly may be over kill for what I'm trying to do.
I must admit- doing this for the first time and all- going s cheaper route may be best in case I do blow the engine up
make this a learning engine with the hopes of everything going well of course, but if something goes wrong than I can pull all my parts off it and throw them on something else or at least a better built L33. Not sure I like the cathedral port heads this has. They flow a lot less, right? If they make the power I need that's good, but I want it made low more than high. Shoot me some input please .I may just pull the trigger and buy this thing.
This is turning into all the other projects I research. There are a million ways to do the same thing and I end up just almost randomly picking one and going with it. That's about where I'm at here: pick a route and stick with it before I drive myself crazy considering all the options. It's looking like this right might be only $6-7k, and $8k would FOR SURE do it with fittings and everything!
What will be different if I do go with this? I imagine it'll make sure lot less torque and especially down low in the RPM band than the L9H. since this is a gen IV VS Racing hss suggested the forged rotating assembly may be over kill for what I'm trying to do.
I must admit- doing this for the first time and all- going s cheaper route may be best in case I do blow the engine up
make this a learning engine with the hopes of everything going well of course, but if something goes wrong than I can pull all my parts off it and throw them on something else or at least a better built L33. Not sure I like the cathedral port heads this has. They flow a lot less, right? If they make the power I need that's good, but I want it made low more than high. Shoot me some input please .I may just pull the trigger and buy this thing. This is turning into all the other projects I research. There are a million ways to do the same thing and I end up just almost randomly picking one and going with it. That's about where I'm at here: pick a route and stick with it before I drive myself crazy considering all the options. It's looking like this right might be only $6-7k, and $8k would FOR SURE do it with fittings and everything!
06-07-2018, 10:14 PM
#128
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The cathedral ports on an L33 have been 7.16 in the quarter mile unported with stock valves, as have the rods/piston/crank/rings/bearings that come in an L33 from the factory.
You can't seem to shake that old school mentality.
You can't seem to shake that old school mentality.
06-08-2018, 02:52 AM
#129
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What what do you think about the price?$850 seems to be okay to me as compared to the almost 3,000 I was looking at for the l9h. The condition seems just perfect for what I'm doing too. Do I even need to open the bottom up to Gap the rings with a 150,000 miles on it? It has been said on here and some people that I have talked to throughout the research I've been doing for this build have suggested that I don't even have to open up the bottom end of the motor! It's kind of funny to think about, but better if it's actually true LOL .Seems like too much of a shortcut, but hey, if it works!
Last edited by Schroeder3; 06-08-2018 at 03:06 AM.
06-08-2018, 11:19 AM
#130
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Found out the $850 engine doesn't have any harnesses, accessories like PS pump alternator, AC compressor, alternator, or ecu.
I had a KRC power steering pump to use in accordance with hydroboost because my NA engine doesn't make good vacuum and I still planned on using it because hydroboost frees up a lot of engine space. Now I'm wondering if I SHOULD just use a normal PS pump though.
I don't think I need the ecu if I'm doing a Holley hp. I don't need the AC compressor. The harness kind bothers me though .I wish I had that. The engine is "intake to oil pan." The other stuff, if available, runs $40-$50 for each accessory .
What do you guys think? Is this engine worth the 2 hr drive each way and $850? It seems like the L33s are plentiful and cheap even though various sources on the internet said they're "rare."
I had a KRC power steering pump to use in accordance with hydroboost because my NA engine doesn't make good vacuum and I still planned on using it because hydroboost frees up a lot of engine space. Now I'm wondering if I SHOULD just use a normal PS pump though.
I don't think I need the ecu if I'm doing a Holley hp. I don't need the AC compressor. The harness kind bothers me though .I wish I had that. The engine is "intake to oil pan." The other stuff, if available, runs $40-$50 for each accessory .
What do you guys think? Is this engine worth the 2 hr drive each way and $850? It seems like the L33s are plentiful and cheap even though various sources on the internet said they're "rare."
06-08-2018, 06:45 PM
#131
Eh, personally I like the lm7 iron block 5.3. The L33 is just an aluminum version with flat tops and 2 degrees more on the cam. The LM7 with dished pistons is only 10hp behind and will allow more boost.
You wont get 800rwhp out of 14lbs. Means you would need to be making 400hp+ before boost. But a turbo cam, all stock LM7 and 20psi will net you 800rwhp probs.
You wont get 800rwhp out of 14lbs. Means you would need to be making 400hp+ before boost. But a turbo cam, all stock LM7 and 20psi will net you 800rwhp probs.
06-08-2018, 08:49 PM
#132
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Eh, personally I like the lm7 iron block 5.3. The L33 is just an aluminum version with flat tops and 2 degrees more on the cam. The LM7 with dished pistons is only 10hp behind and will allow more boost.
You wont get 800rwhp out of 14lbs. Means you would need to be making 400hp+ before boost. But a turbo cam, all stock LM7 and 20psi will net you 800rwhp probs.
You wont get 800rwhp out of 14lbs. Means you would need to be making 400hp+ before boost. But a turbo cam, all stock LM7 and 20psi will net you 800rwhp probs.
06-08-2018, 09:14 PM
#133
Im making the estimates on that 14psi can only really
double your NA hp. To get a 5.3 into 400hp is tough and 14psi will only double that and that’s not rwhp.
Also I’ve been to 14.5psi on my 5.3 with ported heads, custom cam, TBSS intake and 14.5psi turbo boost and my injector duty cycles showing 90% on 60lb injectors so that estimated in the 650-700hp but that’s at the crank. Your going to need more boost to get where you want to be. The dishes LM7 Pistons will help with detonation better than the L33 flat tops. I’m also on 93 pump and 50/50 meth.