Turbosmart EBC - Method 1 or Method 2??
They show 2 different "methods" to connect the 2 port boost control solenoid to the wastegate.
Unsure which one to use, or more importantly, WHY use one over the other??
I have intercooled REAR MOUNT TURBO FWIW...Has a 3.6 psi (small yellow) spring in the Tial 38 WG, and with an air regulator type manual boost controller, I can manually adjust it between 2.4psi (0 turns), and 15.1psi (6 turns), but hate crawling on the ground to do so. At the track, I will see maybe 1 psi of boost creep...
The intention is to run low boost (4-7-ish psi) while bracket racing, and be able to easily crank it up, on the street, for fun...(FWIW, I do also have a 7 psi WG spring which makes 6 or so psi, at the intake)
Which method would you more experienced turbo users go with?
METHOD #1 is how "closest" my manual boost controller is used, obviously if my current MBC replaced the EBC. My MBC does NOT vent to atmosphere. It has TWO ports, and that's it

Assuming the new controller will still allow me to make 15 or so at the high end, I'm good since I'm a little skittish above that point after pushing a head gasket out (22psi on 93 pump and no methanol spraying) at the end of last year.
The multiple other options dont really apply to my basic combo needs, do they?
Since mine is rear mounted, my "boost source" is the turbo, with just a 10" long hose to the "T", then exactly as pictured.
Nothing at all, vacuum related, and adjustable from just under 3psi, up to 15psi.
I guess my main concern is which way will (or should) allow me the same range of boost...but now, the more I look at "method 2", the more that looks like what I have...lol,
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The "Boost Group 1" scale (controls solenoid cycling), and is adjustable from 0-99, made 3psi, set @ 15, 5psi set @ 25, and 7psi set @ 35, so if that trend continues, I'll be able to make about 19psi if I crank the number up.
From initial test drives, setting "Gate Pressure" at 3 psi less than I'm asking for (in total boost), it seems to make boost quicker, which is a major plus with the rear mount setup.
It has a "High Boost" setting, that I can access with a simple toggle switch, or button, which is a very cool option, and also has an "Overboost" feature, that if hit, will cut the boost in half...
Thanks for the replies.
Be careful this way because boost come on fast if somethig was to happin.
I then tested with the MBC being fed the air pressure directly and then the MBC output going to the side bottom port on the WG, the top was vented to atmosphere. Now the MBC operates correctly, backed all the way out (least spring pressure on ball) the gate opens at the same spring PSI. Increasing MBC by screwing in the adjuster and it bleeds off more compressed air to the bottom spring and thus boost increases since less pressure is getting to the WG bottom port.
With my WG hooked up to the bottom with no MBC, just on spring pressure my valve cracks open at 10psi (air compressor) this netted me 6psi boost with my 60mm WG. With 2 springs the valve cracked at 18psi and this netted me 8.5psi. Cranking down the preload adjuster on my HKS style 60mm netted me 10.2psi with the dual springs. I didn’t get a bench testing valve crack pressure to confirm what it opened at on the bench. I went back to the single 6psi spring and I installed the MBC to the bottom port which netted me 10psi cracking pressure. I’m half way through my MBC adjustment range approximately and I got this thing cracking open at 22psi which is already double the original spring cracking pressure. So what gives?
With the new electronic boost controller, I have only turned it up to 7, from base WG spring pressure of 3. I'm sure it will easily go quite higher, but am bracket racing today, so no testing today










