Sleeved Blocks
05-26-2018, 10:43 AM
#1
Sleeved Blocks Anyone pushing a sleeved aluminum block? My car weighs too much already with an iron block and well the price of a LSR steers me away. I have talked to A couple shots briefly about doing a Sleeved 5.3 block for me with darton sleeves and was getting a consesous of 1250whp safely from Turbo cars. If I remember correctly the Ohio boys and a few others were using sleeved blocks from ERL, but I could be wrong? I have an iron block now and would really like to lose the weight, the thoughts were building a 388 with it.
05-26-2018, 02:30 PM
#2
TECH Regular
What's the setup I assume mostly track but u never know. Is there any weight to be dropped on the car is all the free hp used up already. I only ask because of the cost for sleeved block and the e.t gained I would make sure I didn't have any thing left I could get out of my current set up before shelling out the $$ for a sleeved motor
05-28-2018, 09:29 AM
#5
The sleeved block is going to cost me 1750 to be done and of course the bottom end will be added cost but I will have a larger bore for better heads, basically a new motor cost obviously. My next step would be a good set of aftermarket heads which could be over that cost and with a new set of heads possibly a cam swap. So either way I’ll be looking at spending a decent amount of money to go to next step. Car is heavy, 3700-3800lbs as it’s one of the cars that balance the race car in street car clothing so weight is very important. Just been kicking the idea around on whether or not it would be a worthwhile thing to look into and to see if people had some experiences with them
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05-28-2018, 07:03 PM
#10
Originally Posted by 8.Lug
What he’s really sorry about is that 1,307cc rotary clap trap pile of trash he spent all his money on.
Not saying the op doesn't know what he's doing but 99% of the threads started are from people that don't
05-28-2018, 07:19 PM
#11
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Lol you obviously don't know him at all. I don't either but I know his car is badass and well built as well as faster than 99% of the people on here. I think sometimes the "old pros" get tired of everyone wanting to be walked through how to make "1000hp" when they would **** their pants with 650hp. I know I get tired of it.
Not saying the op doesn't know what he's doing but 99% of the threads started are from people that don't
Not saying the op doesn't know what he's doing but 99% of the threads started are from people that don't
In regard to sleeving, wouldn't it be better to stroke the engine and not bore it to keep as much meat between the cylinder bores to help head sealing? Maybe a 4" stroke and stock bore for boost?
06-01-2018, 05:32 PM
#12
06-01-2018, 05:44 PM
#13
First you haven't mentioned what type of sleeve you are even thinking about?
The MID or the standard type sleeve?
Just makes no sense to dump that kind of money into a stock block that will likely have gasket issues over it's life at healthy power in a heavy car, that has a ton of heat cycles in a street app, with any sleeve movement
You are not getting the internal truss bracing that say a super deck gets
For the same money you can be into a good aftermarket iron block that is stronger in every conceivable way,... with 6 bolts.... And priority main oiling
100 extra lbs on a street car, boy that's a killer. Too bad we can't turn up the boost a half a lb
The MID or the standard type sleeve?
Just makes no sense to dump that kind of money into a stock block that will likely have gasket issues over it's life at healthy power in a heavy car, that has a ton of heat cycles in a street app, with any sleeve movement
You are not getting the internal truss bracing that say a super deck gets
For the same money you can be into a good aftermarket iron block that is stronger in every conceivable way,... with 6 bolts.... And priority main oiling
100 extra lbs on a street car, boy that's a killer. Too bad we can't turn up the boost a half a lb
06-01-2018, 09:41 PM
#14
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First you haven't mentioned what type of sleeve you are even thinking about?
The MID or the standard type sleeve?
Just makes no sense to dump that kind of money into a stock block that will likely have gasket issues over it's life at healthy power in a heavy car, that has a ton of heat cycles in a street app, with any sleeve movement
You are not getting the internal truss bracing that say a super deck gets
For the same money you can be into a good aftermarket iron block that is stronger in every conceivable way,... with 6 bolts.... And priority main oiling
100 extra lbs on a street car, boy that's a killer. Too bad we can't turn up the boost a half a lb
The MID or the standard type sleeve?
Just makes no sense to dump that kind of money into a stock block that will likely have gasket issues over it's life at healthy power in a heavy car, that has a ton of heat cycles in a street app, with any sleeve movement
You are not getting the internal truss bracing that say a super deck gets
For the same money you can be into a good aftermarket iron block that is stronger in every conceivable way,... with 6 bolts.... And priority main oiling
100 extra lbs on a street car, boy that's a killer. Too bad we can't turn up the boost a half a lb
Not to mention he didn't state any goals whatsoever. No power goals, no ET goals, nothing.
Before you get all batshit crazy trying to build some $20k+ engine, how about shave some weight off that pig, set up the suspension, maybe change rear gears/transmission or something.
You guys are right. Everyone wants to build something 1000+ whp and has basic questions about engine building period. I figure if you're shooting for 4 digit HP, you might have a half-assed clue on what it takes to get there. If you don't, just go buy something somebody built already, or drop it off and have someone build it for you.
06-02-2018, 06:40 AM
#15
Anyone pushing a sleeved aluminum block? My car weighs too much already with an iron block and well the price of a LSR steers me away. I have talked to A couple shots briefly about doing a Sleeved 5.3 block for me with darton sleeves and was getting a consesous of 1250whp safely from Turbo cars. If I remember correctly the Ohio boys and a few others were using sleeved blocks from ERL, but I could be wrong? I have an iron block now and would really like to lose the weight, the thoughts were building a 388 with it.
As mentioned....just make up for that with power.
My street car drives and feels 100% identical with my iron blocked engine up front......so its meaningless. people that keep saying the extra weight is bad are also meaningless......
My next engine, after my current one blows or gets old, will be built by RED.....Steve at RED told me if I want the strongest block, hands down, no argument, buy an LSX iron block and put his ductile iron sleeves into it. Thats as close to bulletproof as you can get. 1250 RWHP with that would be absolutely nothing for it........
Why drive around with an aluminum ticking time bomb......go iron and have nice piece of mind every day.
.
06-02-2018, 11:17 AM
#16
For what a sleeved aluminum block costs you could easily get into a LSX or DART LS Next block. Yes they are heavier but like mentioned above it is negligible when it really comes down to it. Plus in a turbo situation just put a new more PSI to it to make up for the weight loss. With having an essentially stock LS block outside of the sleeving, you would still be facing some of the oiling issues LS blocks have. Sleeved can be done and I've been looking into it, but feel like I would be disappointed in the end had I not gone Dart. If I were to go sleeved LS I'd have someone do the sleeving then send it to Mike Lough race engines for him to do his oiling mods and assemble everything.
06-04-2018, 02:31 PM
#17
I ran an LS9 block with $100 cast ls1 crank, Compstar rods, Wiseco shelf pistons, LS3 Mast 380cfm heads, stock LS3 intake, Precision T4 88mm turbo (1400hp+ rating), $2/gal e85 in a 2900lb Mazda RX-7 for 3 years at around the 1200rwhp level without issues..... until I finally snapped the crank doing a stupid 1-4th gear burnout where it finally hooked up in 4th. Never changed a head gasket once. Made 1060rwhp on 14psi and we ran it at 17-18psi in 4th and 21-22psi in 5th gear doing 1/2 mile shootouts. I'm guessing well over 1200rwhp.
You could also buy my backup LS9 motor ready to go and ship this week
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...hoice-cam.html
You could also buy my backup LS9 motor ready to go and ship this week
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...hoice-cam.html
06-05-2018, 12:25 PM
#18
Do it right or don't do it...... if your paying $1750 to modify a stock block, hell save up a lil extra and go with an LSX or a Dart aluminum and be done... YOU WILL want more power, just trying to prevent ya from kickin yourself down the road.
06-12-2018, 08:05 PM
#19
ERL is out of business but only because his son I law ran it into the ground , I have had two Sleeved by them and never
had a issue with either , but to be honest there worse things then having a little extra weight on the nose of 1500 rear
wheel horse power car just saying
had a issue with either , but to be honest there worse things then having a little extra weight on the nose of 1500 rear
wheel horse power car just saying
06-12-2018, 11:42 PM
#20
TECH Addict
For the money you also have the option of having the block CNC shaved,, Havn't seen it done in 10 years but it used to be about 2000 ,, basically the whole block inside and out gets CNC milled, standard small block used to lose about 70 lbs doing it.. IIRC , They used to first put hard block in the water jacket then do the CNC work. it was a NASCAR cup car thing back in the day...