Not building boost
#22
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just put compressed air into signal port using a regulator and slowly wind it up. you'll soon see if the spring or seat is no good. or if the diaphragm is torn. saves you removing and stripping it if there's nothing wrong.
you definitely cant hear any exhaust gas out the screamer pipe at idle?
you definitely cant hear any exhaust gas out the screamer pipe at idle?
Edit: will try the regulator compressed air later.. assuming I do that after I remove the wg to physically see if the diaphragm is opening.
Last edited by ledesordre; 08-01-2018 at 03:01 PM.
#26
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You may not have this issue but I had a hard time welding my v band clamps on the thicker stuff and keeping them from warping. As a matter of fact I’ve got to just weld one of them together because it warped. Sucks because I would be able to take the turbo off very quickly but now I can’t.
#27
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Hate to be that guy but I don't see any one else saying it. U can go back and look at some of my threads and see where I had the same turbo as u and the exact same issue your problem is the turbo is junk I had the 76mm and the 88mm on3 I had less than 12hrs on the 76mm I took it straight to rpm. In Raleigh and it wouldn't build boost chased all kinds of things looking for a fix hooked there gauge straight to the turbo housing made a pull and nothing. The inner seal or seals not sure I'm not an expert on turbo internals but it was pushing oil into one side and letting pressure through it's not a good explanation but I don't tune or build turbos it's just how they dumbed it down to me. Put an s476 on it no other changes besides the t6 flanges and it runs beautiful
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Hate to be that guy but I don't see any one else saying it. U can go back and look at some of my threads and see where I had the same turbo as u and the exact same issue your problem is the turbo is junk I had the 76mm and the 88mm on3 I had less than 12hrs on the 76mm I took it straight to rpm. In Raleigh and it wouldn't build boost chased all kinds of things looking for a fix hooked there gauge straight to the turbo housing made a pull and nothing. The inner seal or seals not sure I'm not an expert on turbo internals but it was pushing oil into one side and letting pressure through it's not a good explanation but I don't tune or build turbos it's just how they dumbed it down to me. Put an s476 on it no other changes besides the t6 flanges and it runs beautiful
Interesting :/
#31
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OK I made an air regulator, ran about 20 psi to the tial 38mm mv-s wastegate, I can hear it actuate. It sounds like metal on metal, is that normal? Uploading a video for you guys--- before I find time to pull the WG off completely.
Check it out, let me know what you guys think
#34
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I’ll have to buy a block off at home depot for the air filter compressor housing inlet, going to give it a shot though. Then I’ll run some psi into the fitting on the compressor housing.
Would that only test the cold side, though?
Would that only test the cold side, though?
Last edited by ledesordre; 08-01-2018 at 07:43 PM.
#35
no it should flow through your cooler, past the BOV into the TB and inlet manifold. then it will leak out the exhaust through the open valves. but your compressor will flow enough to negate whats leaking out the exhaust and you'll be able to inspect the entire charge air system for leaks. it will also check the BOV is sealing at the same time
#36
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OK I blocked off the air filter inlet, and pumped about 10-20 psi into the compressor housing. Not detecting any leaks that way.
I'm using a 1.0 a/r exhaust housing but I think it would still spool. I'm not getting any spool but no apparent leak on the hotside either.
I'm using a 1.0 a/r exhaust housing but I think it would still spool. I'm not getting any spool but no apparent leak on the hotside either.