01 WS6, M6, Z06 clutch, Moser 9", full BMR, QA1 shocks, (need brake upgrade and diagnosis; abs/trac off lights, squirrely hard braking)
LS1 stock bottom end, 42lb injectors, large cam, ported 241s, LT headers S.E 3" true duals
Straightline mustang dyno 392 hp and 376tq at 5800 (I've spun to 6200 but nothing left to tune at 5800 and I got scared...90k mi motor)

Goal 550RWHP (at least) similar torque (high average of both through out RPM band).
Looking for long term reliability (pass motor/car down to kids)
Street driving focused.

I've been debating my move for the last 1.5 years. Went from LS7 crate (resolved issues not confirmed) to darton sleeved 427 for n/a (avoiding piston rock), which will cost about 16k+ once in the car. I won't be doing any of the internal engine work myself...too much money involved for me to make a mistake with no warranty.

$16k+ seems like too much money and I want to stay close to 10k.

Local chicago machine shop would rebuild long block (valve job too) for 4-5k to stock, plus upgrades (pistons, bolts, valves, springs, cam etc). I also noticed a sponsor shop in texas can ship me a boost ready LS1 long block for $6k...could probably then sell my longblock for $1K, maybe.

I'm estimating a supercharger kit (magnuson, procharger, etc) will run me 7-8k all in...with dials, s/c cam, etc.

I'm already at $11-13k+ (tune, maybe clutch, balancer, etc).

I say I'm only going to go 9psi, but 12psi sounds better.

Even as I type this, I start thinking n/a again.

The reason why I'm posting is to find out what upgrades other than pistons and rods (along with brands) to consider.
I'm guessing a forged crank is not necessary. ARP bolts for heads, rods and main necessary?
Meth injection necessary?
I know with supercharging my LS6 intake and LS1 ported heads will be fine (thanks to ls1 tech). Will my 42lb injectors suffice?
Is 9.5:1 the best CR for 12lbs of boost?
Anything to help prevent engine overheating?
What questions am I not asking that I need to?

Final questions. I realize I'd be paying for two tunes, but, can a motor built with a supercharger cam be run n/a for a while in case I want to hold onto my money a little longer or am encouraged to break in the motor before applying boost? Or, Anyone think I should get the supercharger first and have the motor rebuilt if/when it breaks?

Would anyone go a different route to obtain 550rwhp/tq (power through out band) for a good sounding car with street manors that I can run my A/C in hot temps? (again, I'm afraid of stroker motor piston rock).

This board has been great to me; upgraded transmission, exhaust (twice), clutch, stereo, carpet, window motors and tires thanks to my posts, posts from others and encouraged dreams. I've read so much information on the above topics, have seen answers to my above questions and have been in information overload/confusion for the past 2 months.
I apologize for the redundant questions.

Thank you for all your help!

 

 

huron speed a/c kit with all the bells n whistles

 

Thanks Jimmy and Doug. I finally got my exhaust to sound just how I want it and turbo's also have certain characteristics that I haven't enjoyed in other turbo cars. For me, it has to be either supercharged or natural.

The Vortech kit seems cool, however, they no longer make it for FBodys.

 

-42lb injectors will not be enough. Go 60's for 550whp.
-Check out other sponsors for their boosted motors as well. I think Thompson sells forged 5.3's for ~$3-4k.
-9.5:1 CR is reasonable on 93 pump, some go higher especially with a blower, but also depends on fueling and if there is methanol.
-Look into the Derale 16925 pusher fans. Its what Huron uses and is a big improvement for a blower kit as well.
-You can tune and run the blower cam N/A, but most recommend to break in the motor with whatever its going to be hit with from the start instead of babying it. For 550whp I would boost the stock motor and deal with replacing it later. 550whp is cake on the stock motor if the tune is decent.
-Hawks Third Gen sells a roots style blower kit that may interest you for ease of packaging. That will give you the most torque from off idle.

 

 

Thanks spider and BC. I'll take your advice on supercharging first, motor later. I am debating between procharger (versatility) and magnuson (torque range and looks). Will measure for pusher fam but thinking my ac condenser may get in the way.

BC. You mentioned meth and bigger ic for procharger: brutes fbody exclusive kit has the d series and 3.5" dual ic. You really think I need both meth and larger ic for 9-12lb or less?

 

 

Skip the dual intercoolers and go straight to an FMIC.

 

My kit uses the 4.5" twin intercoolers, not the 3.5". The front mount is an option which I would go with if you're going to run 12 psi. Bob

 

Sell Your car an buy mine ready to go. 2000 WS6, LSX 427, F1 Procharger, built 4l60, 2600 yank, full suspension, Moser 12 Bolt, 3.73 and more. $25k . Build has about 1,000 miles.

 

Thanks for chiming in, Bob. I was excited to see it came with the 4.5", but hoped the FMIC was for 15psi or higher.

My question to myself will be will I actually do 12psi on a street car. The bigger IC is another huge jump in price and I'm already considering the aster and most of the other options too including black finish, gauges, fuel/inj and maybe even the cam. After I have a few more subtle conversations with the wife about this project, I'll set up a call with my wish list, questions and see what I actually need and what we can do.

Does anyone sufficiently cool the FMIC by just taking out the fog lights instead of cutting out the license plate area?

 

Thanks for the offer, Prowler. Your car sounds cool and reasonably priced. I'm in too deep on mine and yours is missing a pedal (personal preference).

 

It will never be enough. Cheaper to buy the upgraded stuff now then to do it later. Plus the time and effort of redoing things. I highly recommend Bob he helped me a lot with a ton of email questions before I bought a thing from him plus over the phone discounts/free shipping. Plus I had a very rare head unit failure. I sent Bob an email on a Sunday about it and had an instant response and a return authorization number the next day. That evening I sent the head unit off and had it back on the car that same Friday. Nothing is infallible so that kind of support made me a huge Procharger fan. Not a problem since except that I'm now addicted to boost after being a nitrous guy.

 

You're welcome. You could go with the 4.5" twin intercoolers and then add methanol injection should you ever get to where you are cranking the boost up. With the front mount you can get by without cutting out the license plate area by adding an air deflector under the intercooler. Bob

 

Nothing makes me smile more than a daily dose of boost!!!
My recommendation as follows....😆

realize that once you hit 12 lbs you will want 15 lbs
when you hit 15 lbs you will want 18.....
so
go with f1a from the start, and fmic (you'll want and need it later anyhow. Bob will get ya good price on everything! He' the man
the f1a will meet your needs of 550 no problem and don' have to spin it much to make your 550.
eventually the ls1 will take a poo, (yep, clack clack clack)
then get ya an all forged motor and crank up that f1a!!!!

(No joke, don't buy the parts that won' hold up down the road when you want more power.) There is no such thing as too much power😆😆😆 just my 2 pennies worth of advise.
I'm in the Chicagoland area btw.

 

I agree.

Thanks, I appreciate it! Bob