Variable Speed PWM Fan Control under $25 or less DIY
#41
9 Second Club
Another potential PWM controller are modern glow plug relays.
Lots of diesels these days PWM the glow plugs so they actually run for several minutes when the engine is running. They'll get an initial full power hit for fast warmup, but then run at a reduced duty until engine is warmed up a bit before turning off.
Lots of diesels these days PWM the glow plugs so they actually run for several minutes when the engine is running. They'll get an initial full power hit for fast warmup, but then run at a reduced duty until engine is warmed up a bit before turning off.
#42
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Another potential PWM controller are modern glow plug relays.
Lots of diesels these days PWM the glow plugs so they actually run for several minutes when the engine is running. They'll get an initial full power hit for fast warmup, but then run at a reduced duty until engine is warmed up a bit before turning off.
Lots of diesels these days PWM the glow plugs so they actually run for several minutes when the engine is running. They'll get an initial full power hit for fast warmup, but then run at a reduced duty until engine is warmed up a bit before turning off.
#43
9 Second Club
Much as the fan controllers they're just some sort of high current relay controlled by the ecu. Although somehow a lot also have the ability to report faults in the circuit to alert the driver of faults in the glow plug circuit. Not sure how that is achieved as the one on my own van doesnt really have many more wires than most relays.
This a video with some info, although these particular ones are one step better in that the glow plugs also incorporate pressure sensors in cylinder. But you can see his test where the glow plugs get a PWM signal, from around 4 mins
This a video with some info, although these particular ones are one step better in that the glow plugs also incorporate pressure sensors in cylinder. But you can see his test where the glow plugs get a PWM signal, from around 4 mins
#44
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Thread Starter
Great video. Schematic was useful but I couldn't read the name of the input wires. Looks like the cylinder pressure readings are separate from the glow plug controller.
On the positive side, this glow plug controller may have 4 independent power circuits. Not sure if it's can bus controlled, but that would be great.
On the positive side, this glow plug controller may have 4 independent power circuits. Not sure if it's can bus controlled, but that would be great.
#45
9 Second Club
That was just an example I could find with some actual testing info, but there are others out there.
My own van with a 1.7CDTI Isuzu engine uses a more simple setup without the pressure sensors but is defo a PWM setup too, it has 2 output circuits which are monitored somehow.
My own van with a 1.7CDTI Isuzu engine uses a more simple setup without the pressure sensors but is defo a PWM setup too, it has 2 output circuits which are monitored somehow.
#47
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#49
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But you need additional parts like snubber, heat sink as you mentioned, also parts to increase the voltage to 12-15 volts to drive most mosfets. Also at high current, the rise time becomes a factor..... it would be a good idea to use an additional driver chip between the arduino and mosfet(s) to reduce rise time. Also changing the frequency to around 20khz, to keep the fans quiet, where the most commercial fan controllers run, would require tying up more PWM ports unless you want to run at 31khz.
I went that route earlier and found this to be much easier, cleaner and probably cheaper after all is said and done.
#50
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iTrader: (1)
Yes, it can be done.
But you need additional parts like snubber, heat sink as you mentioned, also parts to increase the voltage to 12-15 volts to drive most mosfets. Also at high current, the rise time becomes a factor..... it would be a good idea to use an additional driver chip between the arduino and mosfet(s) to reduce rise time. Also changing the frequency to around 20khz, to keep the fans quiet, where the most commercial fan controllers run, would require tying up more PWM ports unless you want to run at 31khz.
I went that route earlier and found this to be much easier, cleaner and probably cheaper after all is said and done.
But you need additional parts like snubber, heat sink as you mentioned, also parts to increase the voltage to 12-15 volts to drive most mosfets. Also at high current, the rise time becomes a factor..... it would be a good idea to use an additional driver chip between the arduino and mosfet(s) to reduce rise time. Also changing the frequency to around 20khz, to keep the fans quiet, where the most commercial fan controllers run, would require tying up more PWM ports unless you want to run at 31khz.
I went that route earlier and found this to be much easier, cleaner and probably cheaper after all is said and done.
May "borrow" your code as a starting block
#52
TECH Fanatic
i just picked up a couple of the ford controllers for about $7 each last weekend to play with. it would be hard to make something for that price.
#53
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
YW. I'd like to test and document some more brands, if I can get my hand on them.
Agreed. I went down that DIY path and although I had fun, I'm going with the commercial units for now.
one big advantage of the various modules is theyre already weatherproof and made for underhood conditions. anything home made would take a little extra work to do that.
i just picked up a couple of the ford controllers for about $7 each last weekend to play with. it would be hard to make something for that price.
i just picked up a couple of the ford controllers for about $7 each last weekend to play with. it would be hard to make something for that price.
#55
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Thread Starter
Some bi color LEDs have 2 and some have 3 terminals. I use the 2 terminal ones.
That resistor is yellow purple brown which is 470 ohms and a 2 terminal bi color LED. You connect the resistor in series with either terminal. Instead of hooking one terminal to ground, you hook each terminal to a different output port. Both ports high or low, the LED will be off, One port high and the other one low will be one of the colors. One port low and the other one high will be the other color.
For 3 lead bi colors.... two 470 ohm resistors on the non common leads. The common lead goes to ground. The two leads with the resistors go to output ports. Both ports off, led is off. One port on--- one color. Second port on, another color, both ports on, another color.
#58
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Depends on the fan I'm controlling. For the oil and the transmission cooler 20A each. For the Intercooler 30A. For the Radiator, I think it was 40A. Look at your fans rating and add a percentage, maybe 40% or 50%.
#60
Markster, I was out in the junk yard the other day and pulled some Mazda and Mitsubishi controllers with the wires and plugs. I noticed that you could get a longer amount of wire from the Mitsubishi, I also noticed that the fan controller port coming out from the side of the controller that the locking tab on the connector seems to break very easy, I think the plastic is exposed to more heat in that area. May be a good ideal to grab a couple of them!