Variable Speed PWM Fan Control under $25 or less DIY
02-19-2019, 11:23 AM
#63
Restricted User
Its a fan relay from a 4.0 Jeep. OEM part number is RY330k, which cross references with Dorman 902-303. Its $25-30 new and the connector is INCLUDED. Very compact and uses a simple 4-wire connector. Power, ground, input, and output.
I was reluctant to try it at first even though it was recommended right in the MS3Pro manual for a high current (40 amp) PWM controller. Then I seen the price was worth a shot and picked one up for $22 new and used it on my fuel pumps to be controlled directly from Megasquirt.
I'm not sure if there is any input/output frequency conversion, but the input signal coming from megasquirt is relatively low Hz. I noticed that my external AEM 380s hummed a bit when being controlled, but they were still much quieter than a full time digital relay.
Not sure how it stacks up against either of the ones mentioned here, but its an all around good choice. Very small, and $25 new with connector makes it at least a viable option.
02-19-2019, 12:49 PM
#64
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Not sure how I'm just now seeing this.
Its a fan relay from a 4.0 Jeep. OEM part number is RY330k, which cross references with Dorman 902-303. Its $25-30 new and the connector is INCLUDED. Very compact and uses a simple 4-wire connector. Power, ground, input, and output.
I was reluctant to try it at first even though it was recommended right in the MS3Pro manual for a high current (40 amp) PWM controller. Then I seen the price was worth a shot and picked one up for $22 new and used it on my fuel pumps to be controlled directly from Megasquirt.
I'm not sure if there is any input/output frequency conversion, but the input signal coming from megasquirt is relatively low Hz. I noticed that my external AEM 380s hummed a bit when being controlled, but they were still much quieter than a full time digital relay.
Not sure how it stacks up against either of the ones mentioned here, but its an all around good choice. Very small, and $25 new with connector makes it at least a viable option.
Its a fan relay from a 4.0 Jeep. OEM part number is RY330k, which cross references with Dorman 902-303. Its $25-30 new and the connector is INCLUDED. Very compact and uses a simple 4-wire connector. Power, ground, input, and output.
I was reluctant to try it at first even though it was recommended right in the MS3Pro manual for a high current (40 amp) PWM controller. Then I seen the price was worth a shot and picked one up for $22 new and used it on my fuel pumps to be controlled directly from Megasquirt.
I'm not sure if there is any input/output frequency conversion, but the input signal coming from megasquirt is relatively low Hz. I noticed that my external AEM 380s hummed a bit when being controlled, but they were still much quieter than a full time digital relay.
Not sure how it stacks up against either of the ones mentioned here, but its an all around good choice. Very small, and $25 new with connector makes it at least a viable option.
02-19-2019, 03:33 PM
#65
Staging Lane
The Dorman 902-310 is also a good option. Easily controlled with one ground-PWM'd signal and it has a nice beefy heat sink built in. They were $25 on Amazon 6 months ago, but it looks like the price has gone up some.
02-24-2019, 11:41 AM
#67
I found the wiring instructions in the MS3PRO manual. Search the manual for RY330K:
https://www.ampefi.com/wp-content/up...ate_manual.pdf
https://www.ampefi.com/wp-content/up...ate_manual.pdf
02-25-2019, 09:12 AM
#69
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
02-25-2019, 12:44 PM
#70
Staging Lane
I believe freq in = freq out. For the 902-310 module, I've found a couple people using 128hz and said it worked well. I used a little 10hz square wave generator and my fan was audibly choppy. I have 2 for rad fans and 2 for fuel pumps, but have only bench tested them so far.
02-25-2019, 03:33 PM
#71
Yes i believe freq-in = freq-out as well. I don't have any way to measure it but I can definitely hear the fan buzz change as I change the frequency on my MS3.
I tested a 902-310 with f-body fans, and the fans have an annoying buzz on all frequencies the MS3 can do.
I tested a 902-310 with f-body fans, and the fans have an annoying buzz on all frequencies the MS3 can do.
02-26-2019, 07:48 AM
#72
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
I believe freq in = freq out. For the 902-310 module, I've found a couple people using 128hz and said it worked well. I used a little 10hz square wave generator and my fan was audibly choppy. I have 2 for rad fans and 2 for fuel pumps, but have only bench tested them so far.
So it sounds like this Dorman unit would be better as a fuel pump drive, since you can have more control of the output, while the Mazda/Misubishi or the C6 Vette modules would be better for fans since they offload the function of frequency translation.
Last edited by LSswap; 02-26-2019 at 08:20 AM.
07-09-2019, 01:10 AM
#74
Thanks for all the testing and information gathering here! I am on the verge or ordering a Holley Terminator X and was trying to figure out how I am going to handle fan control 1 and 2, abs speed signal 128Hz, speedometer, and cruise speed signal and still have an open output for possible nitrous control later on. This will help me free up one fan output. And I think i have the speeds figured out as well.
I am assuming that you can hook up 2 controllers to one wire and they work just fine? What year Taurus and Mitsubishi should I be looking for if I go that route?
I am assuming that you can hook up 2 controllers to one wire and they work just fine? What year Taurus and Mitsubishi should I be looking for if I go that route?
07-09-2019, 09:22 AM
#75
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the testing and information gathering here! I am on the verge or ordering a Holley Terminator X and was trying to figure out how I am going to handle fan control 1 and 2, abs speed signal 128Hz, speedometer, and cruise speed signal and still have an open output for possible nitrous control later on. This will help me free up one fan output. And I think i have the speeds figured out as well.
I am assuming that you can hook up 2 controllers to one wire and they work just fine? What year Taurus and Mitsubishi should I be looking for if I go that route?
I am assuming that you can hook up 2 controllers to one wire and they work just fine? What year Taurus and Mitsubishi should I be looking for if I go that route?
07-09-2019, 10:20 AM
#77
Would one or the other module work better for the PWM- outputs?
07-09-2019, 10:42 AM
#78
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
With a P- port, I think 90% duty cycle is the slowest speed, 10% duty cycle is maximum speed. Less than 10% or more than 90% is off. Once you have it installed, I would test to see at which point near 10% the unit shuts off and set you max duty a safe amount away from that while still having the fans run at max speed. Andrew, keep me honest here.
I don't have a Holley, so I can't test this.
Last edited by LSswap; 07-09-2019 at 10:48 AM.
07-09-2019, 11:14 AM
#79
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Since the Terminator only has P- ports, i would go with the Corvette C6/ford module only because that would require no additional parts, just a direct connection. One module should be able to handle two fans unless they have some ridiculous current draw. If you want to use 2 C6 modules, I don't see any reason why the two control signals can't be connected to one P- port.
With a P- port, I think 90% duty cycle is the slowest speed, 10% duty cycle is maximum speed. Less than 10% or more than 90% is off. Once you have it installed, I would test to see at which point near 10% the unit shuts off and set you max duty a safe amount away from that while still having the fans run at max speed. Andrew, keep me honest here.
I don't have a Holley, so I can't test this.
With a P- port, I think 90% duty cycle is the slowest speed, 10% duty cycle is maximum speed. Less than 10% or more than 90% is off. Once you have it installed, I would test to see at which point near 10% the unit shuts off and set you max duty a safe amount away from that while still having the fans run at max speed. Andrew, keep me honest here.
I don't have a Holley, so I can't test this.
Andrew
07-09-2019, 12:35 PM
#80
Since the Terminator only has P- ports, i would go with the Corvette C6/ford module only because that would require no additional parts, just a direct connection. One module should be able to handle two fans unless they have some ridiculous current draw. If you want to use 2 C6 modules, I don't see any reason why the two control signals can't be connected to one P- port.
With a P- port, I think 90% duty cycle is the slowest speed, 10% duty cycle is maximum speed. Less than 10% or more than 90% is off. Once you have it installed, I would test to see at which point near 10% the unit shuts off and set you max duty a safe amount away from that while still having the fans run at max speed. Andrew, keep me honest here.
I don't have a Holley, so I can't test this.
With a P- port, I think 90% duty cycle is the slowest speed, 10% duty cycle is maximum speed. Less than 10% or more than 90% is off. Once you have it installed, I would test to see at which point near 10% the unit shuts off and set you max duty a safe amount away from that while still having the fans run at max speed. Andrew, keep me honest here.
I don't have a Holley, so I can't test this.
I already have the truck fans that I got for free, so I think I'll stick to those. They fit my radiator really well too. I'll look for the ford/c6 module and go from there! I appreciate all the help!