Frozen Boost A2W setup
#1
Frozen Boost A2W setup
Just curious if anybody has any experience running their system on a street car. Building a 69 camaro RS and running out of room for any kind of decent sized A2A intercooler. The price on their system is right but don't want to have any junk at any price.
#2
I have the type 5 in my car. It does decent, haven’t had any problems with it. Makes just short of 800 whp on 18 psi. IAT Will climb to 110 or so by the end of a pass with a 7lb bag of ice in the box. Keeps it pretty cool cruising around on the street also with just water. Probably not near as efficient as a bigger high dollar one but for the money I’ve been happy with it.
#3
I have a pair of Type 8s with a ZL1 heat exchanger and Bosch PCA pump. No reservoir or ice box. 5.3L with small twins making about 500hp. Only driven about 1k miles so far on this setup so far; it seems to be doing a fine job, but I don't really have anything to directly compare it to. In the logs I took while tuning I was seeing a 7-8 degree rise in IAT during a 2nd gear WOT pull from 3000-6000RPM, then recovering back to baseline in <30 seconds.
#4
Ive ran the type 12 in my car for 2 years. Rhodes race cars 5 gallon tank.
I cruise very often with it and it stays fairly ambient. Rarely sees 90 even after hours of cruising. Now if I get on it without cycling water itll see high 170-180's. But If I cycle water every hit or so and shut the pump off it sticks 120's with just water.
At the track on a 7.7@181 pass it would start at 65 degrees on the two step and 120-130 across the 1/4 stripe.
I cruise very often with it and it stays fairly ambient. Rarely sees 90 even after hours of cruising. Now if I get on it without cycling water itll see high 170-180's. But If I cycle water every hit or so and shut the pump off it sticks 120's with just water.
At the track on a 7.7@181 pass it would start at 65 degrees on the two step and 120-130 across the 1/4 stripe.
#5
Ive ran the type 12 in my car for 2 years. Rhodes race cars 5 gallon tank.
I cruise very often with it and it stays fairly ambient. Rarely sees 90 even after hours of cruising. Now if I get on it without cycling water itll see high 170-180's. But If I cycle water every hit or so and shut the pump off it sticks 120's with just water.
At the track on a 7.7@181 pass it would start at 65 degrees on the two step and 120-130 across the 1/4 stripe.
I cruise very often with it and it stays fairly ambient. Rarely sees 90 even after hours of cruising. Now if I get on it without cycling water itll see high 170-180's. But If I cycle water every hit or so and shut the pump off it sticks 120's with just water.
At the track on a 7.7@181 pass it would start at 65 degrees on the two step and 120-130 across the 1/4 stripe.
#7
Are those temps with ice in the tank, or just water?
I only add ice at the track. The cooler works great on the street. Like I said, if I get on the highway and do 160 mph hit after hit itll climb up there. But just cruising around and driving making a few pulls here and there. all I ever do is cycle the water. Rarely does it get warm.
I put 6,000 miles on it in 2017 and only about 1,200 miles on it in 2018. The cooler is a good value.
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#9
It depends on how it is setup
If you don't have a HE and you aren't sourcing true ambient air to the turbo and let the pump run contiously you are likely going to be heating the water
If you are drawing 130-150* air off the radiator to the turbo inlet..... That is the lowest temp the water is looking to stabilize at if you just let the pump run all the time
If you are drawing in true ambinet air to the turbo sure you can run the pump all the time. That is the temp the water is stabilizing too
My water will stabilize to 5-10* above ambinet if you let the pump run cruising. True ambient Inlet on turbo
You push a bunch of heat into the water on a hit and then pull it back out and discharce to the engine while cruising and no HE needed
If you don't have a HE and you aren't sourcing true ambient air to the turbo and let the pump run contiously you are likely going to be heating the water
If you are drawing 130-150* air off the radiator to the turbo inlet..... That is the lowest temp the water is looking to stabilize at if you just let the pump run all the time
If you are drawing in true ambinet air to the turbo sure you can run the pump all the time. That is the temp the water is stabilizing too
My water will stabilize to 5-10* above ambinet if you let the pump run cruising. True ambient Inlet on turbo
You push a bunch of heat into the water on a hit and then pull it back out and discharce to the engine while cruising and no HE needed
#12
#13
I'm perty much strictly street stuff.. here is the layout. A single type 15 in back (can be had for 80 dollars on eBay)
94mm gt55/390".
I have pre and post IC temps. Here is the performance I get on straight water on the street.. it will put 20* Into the water each full hit at that level.
The run under the car from the turbo to the cooler does knock a good chunk of heat out of it before it ever even gets to the cooler so keep that in mind
Can see pre and post temps on the gauge on the left
94mm gt55/390".
I have pre and post IC temps. Here is the performance I get on straight water on the street.. it will put 20* Into the water each full hit at that level.
The run under the car from the turbo to the cooler does knock a good chunk of heat out of it before it ever even gets to the cooler so keep that in mind
Can see pre and post temps on the gauge on the left