4th Gen turbo kit that keeps AC
Good man. I think you'll find it fits what you want pretty nicely. You can search for my build thread when I had the blower and see how it installs etc.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
Might want to review this thread from end to end.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...read-pics.html
Might want to check the Hawks site too and search on 'Sally'. IMO - this Hawks kit is the most compatible with AC since you can leave the GM intake intact. It' hard to keep the cabin cool when temps reach high 90's and anything north of 100 degrees after disrupting air flow to the AC condenser with a turbo or ProCharger. The issue can be solved, just more parts and fabrication to fix it. Being able to leave the stock fans in place is a big plus with kit below.
BTW - I have a D1, but knowing what I know now would opt for the kit below or the next size larger.
With this kit the issue with the wipers has been solved.
https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/98-...nacharger-kit/
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...read-pics.html
Might want to check the Hawks site too and search on 'Sally'. IMO - this Hawks kit is the most compatible with AC since you can leave the GM intake intact. It' hard to keep the cabin cool when temps reach high 90's and anything north of 100 degrees after disrupting air flow to the AC condenser with a turbo or ProCharger. The issue can be solved, just more parts and fabrication to fix it. Being able to leave the stock fans in place is a big plus with kit below.
BTW - I have a D1, but knowing what I know now would opt for the kit below or the next size larger.
With this kit the issue with the wipers has been solved.
https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/98-...nacharger-kit/
Might want to review this thread from end to end.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...read-pics.html
Might want to check the Hawks site too and search on 'Sally'. IMO - this Hawks kit is the most compatible with AC since you can leave the GM intake intact. It' hard to keep the cabin cool when temps reach high 90's and anything north of 100 degrees after disrupting air flow to the AC condenser with a turbo or ProCharger. The issue can be solved, just more parts and fabrication to fix it. Being able to leave the stock fans in place is a big plus with kit below.
BTW - I have a D1, but knowing what I know now would opt for the kit below or the next size larger.
With this kit the issue with the wipers has been solved.
https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/98-...nacharger-kit/
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...read-pics.html
Might want to check the Hawks site too and search on 'Sally'. IMO - this Hawks kit is the most compatible with AC since you can leave the GM intake intact. It' hard to keep the cabin cool when temps reach high 90's and anything north of 100 degrees after disrupting air flow to the AC condenser with a turbo or ProCharger. The issue can be solved, just more parts and fabrication to fix it. Being able to leave the stock fans in place is a big plus with kit below.
BTW - I have a D1, but knowing what I know now would opt for the kit below or the next size larger.
With this kit the issue with the wipers has been solved.
https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/98-...nacharger-kit/
I thought that the magnacharger didn't fit F-Bodies... hm..... I am intrigued.
Yes and typically the k member is lowered to help clear the cowl as well. Ceiling on the kit is about 600whp though and that's with the mp122 maxxed out. Insta torque, but not as much head room as a centrifugal.
Hmmmm...... I might have to abandon this thread and start talking blower.
Ah, that is what the k-member spacer is for. I wonder if there are any aftermarket k-member options the eliminate cutting the cowl.
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Verdad Gallardo Itd probably be custom and really thick. I would also assume at some point you'd need to have an adjustable torque arm to keep the driveline angle right since the mounts on the trans and rear don't change.
I have almost all of the adjustable rear suspension stuff. Coil-overs are going on with the mini-tub and roll bar this year (I hope).
So.... lets recap here.. Please correct me/update if needed:
Stock LS1 motor, will already be running AZ flex-fuel (E54 I think) MAYBE 317 heads:
- Requires tapping the oil pan
- Requires more fab work for the intercooler
- Looks bone stock with the hood closed
- No intercooler plumbing to deal with
- Lowest potential
- 50 state street legal (according to Hawks website)
Stock LS1 motor, will already be running AZ flex-fuel (E54 I think) MAYBE 317 heads:
Huron Speed T4 V3 AC kit:
- Has the most potential- Requires tapping the oil pan
- Requires more fab work for the intercooler
Hawks Magnacharger 2300 kit:
- Cleanest install, but requires cutting the cowl- Looks bone stock with the hood closed
- No intercooler plumbing to deal with
- Lowest potential
Hawks D1SC Procharger kit
- Has more potential than the Magna- 50 state street legal (according to Hawks website)
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
Didn't fit fbodies - once true - things have changed.
According to LS6427 who has done quite a bit of research on all three systems - you don't have to lower the engine. The Harrop 2650 is only 9 mm taller than the 2300.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote from LS627 in another thread:
"Its only 9mm taller than the TVS2300....Hawks Motorsports installs the TVS2300 into 98-02 FBodys. They fit very nicely after their very small modification to the cowl, which looks factory when finished. And the wipers still work normally.
I received the engineering drawings from Harrop and I spoke to Hawks Motorsports. They also both went into their shops to verify the height measurements on actually engines.
Hawks said they can make that extra 9mm of space with their current cowl kit. No need to drop the engine.
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/98-0...nacharger-kit/
As far as the hood itself....its nowhere near touching the hood....an easy system to install, spark plug changes are easy, cooling system stays as-is, clean engine bay, no crazy engine bay heat, etc."
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: all opinion and subjective as to which system to choose.
The modification to the cowl area is much less than all of the fabrication and modifications done to keep my AC so it actually works and keeps the car cool.
According to LS6427 who has done quite a bit of research on all three systems - you don't have to lower the engine. The Harrop 2650 is only 9 mm taller than the 2300.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote from LS627 in another thread:
"Its only 9mm taller than the TVS2300....Hawks Motorsports installs the TVS2300 into 98-02 FBodys. They fit very nicely after their very small modification to the cowl, which looks factory when finished. And the wipers still work normally.
I received the engineering drawings from Harrop and I spoke to Hawks Motorsports. They also both went into their shops to verify the height measurements on actually engines.
Hawks said they can make that extra 9mm of space with their current cowl kit. No need to drop the engine.
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/98-0...nacharger-kit/
As far as the hood itself....its nowhere near touching the hood....an easy system to install, spark plug changes are easy, cooling system stays as-is, clean engine bay, no crazy engine bay heat, etc."
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: all opinion and subjective as to which system to choose.
The modification to the cowl area is much less than all of the fabrication and modifications done to keep my AC so it actually works and keeps the car cool.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
You need to add the Harrop 2650 into the mix. Considerably more rwhp. IMO - the diff between a 2300 and 2650 is probably like comparing a D1 to an F1.
BTW - with the Procharger, you have to remove the stock air filter system. Remove the stock fans which actually are pretty good at moving lots of air. Install a bigger radiator. Buy two two high performance fans to replace the single ATI 16 fan. Add a high performance FMIC or the ATI FMIC system to manage high IAT's. Add an Aster Bracket and LS2 water pump to manage belt slip. Buy an ATI damper along with smaller pulley and new belts.
And there's more. Because once you reach 550 rwhp - it's not enough and you want more.
BTW - with the Procharger, you have to remove the stock air filter system. Remove the stock fans which actually are pretty good at moving lots of air. Install a bigger radiator. Buy two two high performance fans to replace the single ATI 16 fan. Add a high performance FMIC or the ATI FMIC system to manage high IAT's. Add an Aster Bracket and LS2 water pump to manage belt slip. Buy an ATI damper along with smaller pulley and new belts.
And there's more. Because once you reach 550 rwhp - it's not enough and you want more.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Jan 25, 2019 at 01:17 AM. Reason: edit content
The only real complaint I have with the procharger is getting a good air filter system on it is a pain. Other than that it was just the noise level I didn’t like plus I’m too stupid to leave my **** alone once it’s finished.
Turbo kit might be simple looking in the instructions but when you start doing it little stuff adds a lot of time. A 2300 would be styling in a f body for sure but for ease of install and effectiveness for the money you can’t beat procharger. Turbo can be turned up and is adjustable but that’s a negative if you can’t resist messing with it then next thing you know...built engine in the works.
Turbo kit might be simple looking in the instructions but when you start doing it little stuff adds a lot of time. A 2300 would be styling in a f body for sure but for ease of install and effectiveness for the money you can’t beat procharger. Turbo can be turned up and is adjustable but that’s a negative if you can’t resist messing with it then next thing you know...built engine in the works.
I added to your list.
The turbo you have to remove the stock fans as well. And you dont need a bigger radiator. I put at LT1 radiator in but it wasnt required. Turbo needs to the FMIC as well. And a D1SC will make way more than 550whp, just like the turbo setup. I have yet to see anyone stick a Harrop on an LS1 in an Fbody, so I doubt this is the route to go until there is a proven kit.
So.... lets recap here.. Please correct me/update if needed:
Stock LS1 motor, will already be running AZ flex-fuel (E54 I think) MAYBE 317 heads:
Huron Speed T4 V3 AC kit:
- Has the most potential
- Requires tapping the oil pan
- Requires more fab work for the intercooler
-Requires relocating power steering lines
-Requires a turbo k member
-Requires pusher fans
-All hotside piping is mounted in front of the motor as well as the downpipe
Hawks Magnacharger 2300 kit:
- Cleanest install, but requires cutting the cowl
- Looks bone stock with the hood closed
- No intercooler plumbing to deal with except for coolant lines and mounting a heat exchanger
- Lowest potential
Hawks D1SC Procharger kit
- Has more potential than the Magna
- 50 state street legal (according to Hawks website)
-Requires ATI crank pulley
-Also talk to Bob at Brutespeed as they sell new kits as well
-Requires pusher fans for your temperature environment.
Stock LS1 motor, will already be running AZ flex-fuel (E54 I think) MAYBE 317 heads:
Huron Speed T4 V3 AC kit:
- Has the most potential
- Requires tapping the oil pan
- Requires more fab work for the intercooler
-Requires relocating power steering lines
-Requires a turbo k member
-Requires pusher fans
-All hotside piping is mounted in front of the motor as well as the downpipe
Hawks Magnacharger 2300 kit:
- Cleanest install, but requires cutting the cowl
- Looks bone stock with the hood closed
- No intercooler plumbing to deal with except for coolant lines and mounting a heat exchanger
- Lowest potential
Hawks D1SC Procharger kit
- Has more potential than the Magna
- 50 state street legal (according to Hawks website)
-Requires ATI crank pulley
-Also talk to Bob at Brutespeed as they sell new kits as well
-Requires pusher fans for your temperature environment.
You need to add the Harrop 2650 into the mix. Considerably more rwhp. IMO - the diff between a 2300 and 2650 is probably like comparing a D1 to an F1.
BTW - with the Procharger, you have to remove the stock air filter system. Remove the stock fans which actually are pretty good at moving lots of air. Install a bigger radiator. Buy two two high performance fans to replace the single ATI 16 fan. Add a high performance FMIC or the ATI FMIC system to manage high IAT's. Add an Aster Bracket and LS2 water pump to manage belt slip. Buy an ATI damper along with smaller pulley and new belts.
And there's more. Because once you reach 550 rwhp - it's not enough and you want more.
BTW - with the Procharger, you have to remove the stock air filter system. Remove the stock fans which actually are pretty good at moving lots of air. Install a bigger radiator. Buy two two high performance fans to replace the single ATI 16 fan. Add a high performance FMIC or the ATI FMIC system to manage high IAT's. Add an Aster Bracket and LS2 water pump to manage belt slip. Buy an ATI damper along with smaller pulley and new belts.
And there's more. Because once you reach 550 rwhp - it's not enough and you want more.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
The OP lives in AZ and he want's to use the car as a daily driver and he wants to use his AC. Overheating when adding a turbo or ProCharger has been discussed ad nauseam as far back as 04 when the D1 was introduced. There were naysayers then and there are naysayers today.
Overheating depends on average ambient temps of where you live and weather you keep the AC and use it when temps are high 90's or higher. Driving style makes a difference too. Driving in downtown Dallas, Houston, or Phoenix at 35-45 mph when temps are high is considerably different than in regions of the country where temps are much lower. It got as high as 104 in June, 106 in July, and 105 in August last year in Phoenix compared to Miami where highs were 84, 85, and 86 for the same months. Driving in slow moving traffic, sometime parked in slow moving traffic when it's 104 without any AC is a bit different than cruising at 75 mph with the windows down when it's only 75.
To the OP - overheating with the AC on where you live might be an issue to consider when choosing a system. Heck, even the early Corvette Z06/ZR1's overheat dependent on locality. I understand the latest model is supposed to have corrected the issue. GM used to test up to 85, now they test up to 100 F.
My 12 Corvette GS never overheats. But with myProCharged 98 Z28 I can't always be sure when it reaches 100 or more outside. Just something to think about if you want to keep your AC and actually use it.
Overheating depends on average ambient temps of where you live and weather you keep the AC and use it when temps are high 90's or higher. Driving style makes a difference too. Driving in downtown Dallas, Houston, or Phoenix at 35-45 mph when temps are high is considerably different than in regions of the country where temps are much lower. It got as high as 104 in June, 106 in July, and 105 in August last year in Phoenix compared to Miami where highs were 84, 85, and 86 for the same months. Driving in slow moving traffic, sometime parked in slow moving traffic when it's 104 without any AC is a bit different than cruising at 75 mph with the windows down when it's only 75.
To the OP - overheating with the AC on where you live might be an issue to consider when choosing a system. Heck, even the early Corvette Z06/ZR1's overheat dependent on locality. I understand the latest model is supposed to have corrected the issue. GM used to test up to 85, now they test up to 100 F.
My 12 Corvette GS never overheats. But with myProCharged 98 Z28 I can't always be sure when it reaches 100 or more outside. Just something to think about if you want to keep your AC and actually use it.
Im well aware of the OP's situation as I was the first to try and get him to go boosted for his needs even being in AZ. I'm in FL and we get more humidity than AZ which makes things worse even if the temp isn't as high. Friend DD's his iron block 5.3 turbo with a stock radiator with AC in stop and go traffic. I did it with my 383. It's entirely about airflow THROUGH the radiator, not the type of radiator you have as I've seen Dewitts and BeCool and high $$$ radiator cars overheat just like stock radiator cars. You need the airdam installed and GOOD fans.
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Posts: 748
Likes: 18
Been running on my setup for almost 5 years now. Stock bottom end LS1 with nearly 200k miles on it. Only time I've taken pan off was to drill and tap for Oil Drain. Have made a tick under 750rwhp more then once on the rollers and done same boost level and then some on the street. At the manifold is 12.5#'s and have spiked as high as 16 before Overboost kicked in on controller when screwing around. I know others have run more boost on stock bottom ends. All in the tune and setup with how long it all lasts imo.