http://www.squashperformance.com/199...stem_p_44.html Squash dual setup
or
https://www.speedinc.com/catalog/pro.../category/303/ Chris1313 dual setup

Those are the two popular plug and play ones that I am aware of.

 

My initial suggestion is “ line up a good tuner” ! At the end of the day it’s the tune that will preserve that LS1.
Next, keep Bob on speed dial, he has the answers to most/ every question re: fbody Procharger needs ( great prices & the customer service is worth his weight in gold).

- As said multiple times already, over kill the fuel system. It leaves room for growth should you choose. Squash dual pumps for me. Get plenty of injector as well. I made the mistake of tossing $$ out the window by starting with 60 lb injectors & a booster pump. Then 80lbs & racetronics 255’s .... ultimately dual squash & ID1000. Ask yourself what HP you will possibly want to reach as you progress ,,, THEN ADD 100 !! Plan for that.
- rear end: many of us ran the stock 10 bolt until they popped. I even left my 4:10’s in for years which was fine @ 500-600 rwhp on the street. Most will recommend 3:73 or 3:42. I’m at 3:42 in a 12 bolt moser. At some point you will need the 12 bolt at least, but you can definitely survive with the stock 10 bolt for a good while. If I’m not mistaken our friend & moderator Alchemist is pushing near 900 rwhp with stock 10 bolt. Obviously no hole shots with slicks .... but your street goals mentioned earlier seem within the parameters of a non priority.
- while the FMIC is premium for keeping IATs in check ( & that truly makes efficient use of the blower), it is a bit intrusive re: install. At your power level I would consider the fbody twins (good up to 12lbs.). If you intentend to get into higher boost & start approaching the 700/800 rwhp club ...... go FMIC from the get go. It sounds like you do so I’m just suggesting this because I hear you speak of value & original status. The FMIC will have you cutting up the front bumper system & removing the license plate area etc..
- on your current LS1, I would put a good centri cam & stop there. If you are planning a forged motor in the future I wouldn’t waste any time, energy & money on the current power plant. While it’s not best LS for boost, It’s pretty sturdy as it sits. The cam will get you better efficiencies, more power & the propper spec cam can help with the load on static compression (which will obviously do wonders for the Pop Goes The Weasel worries on a stock bottom end).
- exhaust: while I love my Kooks True Dual 3” system, beware it’s crazy loud & needed modification to come close to any as-semblance of a streetable rod. I love the sound & performance of an X pipe so you may consider a dual over the axel 2.75” system made by Basani. Otherwise there are many good Y pipe systems out there. Headers are a must of course.
- Tires: it will be like Ice Road Truckers if you don’t upgrade properly. This can be searched till your eyes pop out but suffice to say you will find what your looking for re: information on this site. For me, a street car & to meet my specific dims, I run Toyo R888R.
- again this is not priority but I’d suggest all the suspension parts available for Fbody. A game changer for me was the addition of the sub frame connectors. Torque arm, lower control arms .... all helpful with getting the power to the ground & making the car feel like it handles the road.
- meth: yes. Many say it’s not needed at this power level ( many say it’s needed at any FI power level). I fall into the later club. Tuned for safety it has many benefits & the cooling of the initial charge is the least of them. Your combustion chamber on your SBE will love you forever. Alchy control for me. Non intrusive on the tank install & top of the line components. Here again, search & you shall find. This site is loaded with intelligent information & advice.
- cooling fans. Be ready for this as most of us needed to upgrade. This system ( if you go with the FMIC) will most likely need additional airflow to keep your coolant temps in check ( especially if you intend to keep the AC) . I started with two Spal fans (16” & 9”). Then added two 12” pusher fans to seal the deal. Again this is subjective. Some of us had no need to upgrade the fans. All that I’m suggesting is that you be ready for that situation. ( do not remove the airdamn under the front end ! This is absolutely needed for airflow).
- Clutch: don’t do what I did. $$$$$ pisssed up a rope. Get the best twin disc you can afford from the start. My McLeod feels like stock & holds like a vice grip. Many good clutches on the market I believe Monster has a nice twin disc as well.
- Catch Can: Mighty Mouse. Nuff said.

You are going to love your ProCharger !
Hope this helps.

Patrick.

 

May as well add a drive shaft loop. You never know......
If I’m not mistaken I switched to MWC version because my lowered vehicle would scrape the BMR version. MWC holds from the Top down while BMR does this from bottom up.

Re: your intended watts link. People have successfully installed the Kooks TD using watts link set ups. There is a thread regarding this in LS2 ( maybe LS1) external.

 

Thanks Patrick, I really appreciate it! Bob

 

Another question I have. So based on the advice of keeping the 241's and upgrading the valve springs and pushrods. Would it be more beneficial for me to find a set of 317's to lower the compression slightly and throw more boost at it safely since Im going to have to upgrade the springs and pushrods regardless? I can get a set of assembled 317's from my local junkyard for under $100. Then I also considered getting a set of 317's which have already beencleaned and checked as well as checking for cracks, seals general valve job if needed and checked to see if they need to be made flat again.

 

I wouldn't, but it's not my car...LOL. I wouldn't even pull the heads off of it just boost it with the 6 to 9 psi you mentioned while you build the forged motor. Put all your money into the new motor. No need to lower compression for that boost level even on pump gas. Lowering compression will make it less fun in vacuum and I typically am in vacuum till just over 3000 rpm.

 

Ok so keep the 241’s. Are you saying don’t even worry about changing out the springs and pushrods? I mean I’m not going to be “actively” building another motor. Basically this one is going to get what it needs and has to be able to last until funds are together for a rear end and then I’ll probably be building a different platform to swap in.

the only parts so far I’ll be “splurging” on will be the fuel pump. Still trying to figure out whether to do new feed/return lines already or wait until the transplant of the other motor (more than likely two years from now). Still going with the FMIC set up since I’ll stay boosted and eventually go more boost with the built engine.

 

Still running the stock valvesprings, pushrods, lifters etc in my 150k LS1 on 9psi #yolo

 

I'd do a cam and valve springs at the same time as the procharger install. If no cam then I'd leave the springs unless you have an issue after the blower install.

 

This post pretty much wins the thread.

 

Question on gauges. Im looking into my a pillar gauge pod. Was thinking mechanical boost/vacuum (30#'s room to grow), electric fuel pressure (0-100), and A/F ration gauge. below are the part numbers. Just wanted to check for any input on the gauge selection or any issues anyone has had with running these particular gauges. I'd "prefer" to have matching gauges all white faced with red luminescent to match the cluster. Would consider another brand however AutoMeter is running a rebate until June 30th so i figured id get some well known gauges and save a bit of money. Thanks for the input.

Auto Meter part #'s:

12213 Gauge pod
5703 Boost/vacuum
5763 Fuel Pressure
5779 A/F - I have little-to-no knowledge on these gauges or how accurate they are. It says in the notes section : "Notes: Includes wide band oxygen sensor with 8ft. cable. This gauge displays both a bar graph and digital numbers." I guess this particular gauge/O2 sensor would be better addressed by a tuner or someone similar.

 

This has turned into more than what the OP wants, IMO anyway. Is this his first boost car, I believe so. Will he want more boost down the road? Probably.

OP,
60lb injectors
450 pump or 255 w/ BAP
ATI balancer, pinned( I have a stack of stock balancers that have come apart)
BR7 plugs gapped at .028
Clutch of your choice
I'd throw a set of headers on it before I overbuilt the fuel system(at this point in the game)
Delete the MAF, run a 2 bar COS

run 10lbs all day long on pump gas, especially with that intercooler.

You will see around 500-550rwhp depending on how good your exhaust is.

On that blower we normally see 20hp/pound of boost

Not everyone wants 1000rwhp......

 

I have the 5701 currently which is the same as the 5703 except it only goes to 20 psi. Zero issues and very simple install.

5763 same as what I currently run. Once again very simple install and the pressure matches what It read with a mechanical gauge. One harness to go to sender and one for the light.

5779 A/F same as what I have. Hardest part about install was running the thick wire down to the wideband and hiding it/securing it. My tuner used this when tuning my car.

Notes: Definetly upgrade to LED red bulbs. I have found that over time the red "condom" that goes over the bulb faded and started looking more pink instead of red. Autometer Product # 3284 is the ones I use now. They are pricey at 12.95 a piece however they are working perfect and match the pontiac red dash color pretty closely. I have pics of mine I could upload when home if you would like to see them

 

thanks for the response. I checked the bulbs out and might as well address it before it becomes an issue.

 

Yeah a lot of the answers that are a page long were a lot of info I had already picked up on one of the stickies. It has turned out to be quite expensive however Im happy with the route im going. Start with the Watts Link install and LCA's (possibly change the gears 4.10 currently). The fuel system i've chosen to do the "one and done" method. Im going to take off the stock fuel lines and bend some larger hard lines to match the inner diameter of an equivalent 8AN. *an feed/return with the EVAP plugged. do the flex lines where they need to be. Drop the trans and change out the fluid (only about 4-6K miles away from the change anyway), get my aluminum flywheel off and send it off to Mcleod to be rebuilt with the original street twin (went one and done on the clutch too) and balanced. The car has headers already with an off road y to the stock SLP exhaust. I probably will leave the exhaust as it is until the boosted shortblock is built then ill throw the larger primary headers on with a custom dual 3". Probably the same time bring the front suspension up to snuff. I've got everything except: ATI Balancer, timing chain, cam and intercooler kit and gaskets. I figured the easiest way would be work from the back of the car towards the front.

Most of the parts I purchased "new" but saved a pretty penny by getting them off LS1Tech members who didnt use the stuff for their build. I guess thats kinda nice when working with 20+ year old motor LOL. Thanks for all the input guys, it is really appreciated. I was actually going to ask about the MAF deal. I did not like how the kit looked with the maf on it (extra connections/bottle necking) and was going to ask my tuner if i should go with the speed density set-up. Im so far away from a tune though I'll be lucky if I get it done by the Comp T/A-Firehawk meet up at Summit Raceway Park.

I guess with where Im at now another question I have is what gear? Car currently has the 4.10's with the close ratio t56 magnum. this gearing will only be for this specific set up. By the time I have a boost ready built shortblock I'll have a 9" in the back to handle all the fun.

 

Anybody on the gears for the rearend??? The close ratio T56 gearing is as follows (once again vehicle will be strictly used for street/cruising). currently has 4.10's; I would rather change them out now if its going to be too much power/shifting with the desired 550whp im looking to achieve before i put the watts link in.

First Gear Ratio: 2.66:1

Second Gear Ratio: 1.78:1

Third Gear Ratio: 1.30:1

Fourth Gear Ratio: 1.00:1

Fifth Gear Ratio: 0.80:1

Sixth Gear Ratio: 0.63:1

also what dual wideband set-up would you guys recommend? I was going to go with the autometer mentioned above but i feel like it would be a better investment to go with a dual wideband as opposed to the single (easier to track down potential problems and more data for tuner).

Still been racking up the parts. If i have time this weekend I'll get some pictures of everything so far. Looking at getting into the tear down mid-end of July.

 

I went with 3.73s. I think thats perfect for the 6 speed and all that power.

 

thanks man! my biggest concern was having that power and with the shorter gearing having to shift every 1-3 seconds. Normal driving condition with current power and 4.10's shifting around 2-2300; im normally shifting 1-2 under the street light and in third before i get across the intersection.

anyone on the dual wideband info??? id like to stick to the autometer but based on my research its only a single and i dont know if you can wire it as a dual or honestly how any wideband hook up works for that matter. I know its purpose and would prefer one on each bank to help tune/narrow down potential problems.

 

If you still have the ati balancer and still want to sell it pm me

 

The OP actually just bought it from me last week.