transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

Sale is pending on a D1SC with the big front mount intercooler however I am going to stop out at Summit Racing maybe this weekend or the next to pick up some parts to get the thing installed. Car is '01 Firehawk w/ t56 magnum stock oil pan to intake with a few other suspension mods. I do not intend to "see how much boost i can put through before she blows", i literally plan to run maybe 6-9 pounds (whatever the stock 8 rib is set up for) Car is a cruiser...no drag racing but will definitely be making some pulls on the highway in Mexico. the questions I have are as follows:


size of injectors? 60?
fuel pump? dual 255's?
clutch? twin disc carbon?

may or may not pick up a true dual exhaust system just to be done with that portion as well since ill be installing a watts link and lca's during the supercharger install.

I already have the cooling system set with the electric water pump and a dual core radiator. I do have the aluminum flywheel from Fidanza. It does have headers and an off road y pip out the back to slp loud mouth exhaust. I know the weak point will be the rear end (4.10 gears currently). I've been digging on this site for years now gathering and soaking as much information as i can on components and weak points and whats needed, etc. I'd imagine with the boost Ill be somewhere in the ballpark of 465-500whp. Car as it sits now is making 356rwhp/360tq. However it seems there is pretty knowledgeable individuals/sponsors on here so I was hoping for a little help maybe even luck out and find a sale. Thanks!!!

Toes

iTrader: (1)

60s are good enough
single 450 fuel pump
clutch your preference
Get a catch can
Locking hose clamps

Mr.Bu

You’re going to need to key the crank. I’d only use innovators west or ati balancer.

klinznilk

iTrader: (8)

I have the d1x on stock bottom end LS1 however I am using FMIC. Crank will need pinned with 8 rib
I am running 80# (overkill)
Racetronix 255 w hotwire setup (zero issues with fuel pressure etc so far)
I do have TSP 1 7/8 with magnaflow catback and a cam with springs/pushrods.

Car is is 6-7psi with 7.62 pulley on crank and 4.38 blower pulley. You will easily hit that goal of 465-500rwhp as I am closer to 575 rwhp

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

You may think you only want 6 to 9 pounds of boost, but you will want more so plan accordingly. I would over kill the fuel system. I've had to revisit my fuel system a few times already after installing the D1x because I wanted more boost and ran out of fuel then I went to E85.

transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

That's the idea, I'd like the fuel system to be one and done whether its for this motor on small boost or the next motor that goes in that will be built for boost.

transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

Another question I have is the kit Im purchasing come with the crank balancer from Procharger. Would it be a better decision to get an ATI Super Damper or just run the one in the kit. I know I have to key the crank. The idea with this motor is to keep it alive until the next one is ready to drop in. Only reason im keeping the boost low is to preserve the motor with it being original to the car. Money spent on building one for boost in my opinion is better than throwing thousands on this LS1. Preserving this motor is TOP priority. I may throw a set of junkyard heads (lower compression) and pick up the appropriate springs, etc. to "help it", timing chain and cam specific grind. But this will be it on this shortblock, still keeping the LS6 intake.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

I’m cam only stock bottom end stock heads at 14 psi peak. Why would you need to spend thousands on the motor or lower compression if you are only running 8-9 psi?

transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

That’s exactly why I’m not spending thousands on the ls1. I was just saying there is an eventuality that hits every driver eventually and you’ll want to go faster. I’ll want more boost eventually and it seems wasteful to put the money into an ls1 when the cost is similar to get a forged ls2 or ls3. Not to mention the firehawk will kinda “lose its worth” if I start messing with the internals. This motor won’t be pulled until I have a 9” in the back and a ready to drop in motor built for boost. Then the ls1 will sit on a motor mount for aesthetics in the garage or man cave.

I know the same can be said for modifications of any kind however when they’re just bolt on/off I feel a little better. Install I’ll be doing I’d just prefer to order the short block from somewhere so I can blame them if it blows lol. However for now just focusing on keeping the stocker strong and reliable.

transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

out of curiosity are you running a meth kit with it or one of the lucky few who have access to the e85 or whatever octane it is? How many miles on the motor? Heads? I’d prefer to not have to run the meth kit but I know it’ll be insurance for me.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

Interesting...My blue with blue interior gto is pretty rare too, but I could care less if I hurt my stock ls1 although I’ll absolutely do everything I can to make last with a good tune. As soon as I get my fuel system sorted I’ll be going to 3 bar and more boost.

transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

Fair enough however I really “don’t got it” like that to run the risk of going too high on the boost and have the car sit until I can get the funds together to repair or get another short block. Single father kinda stuff...**** took me this long to have the funds and find a deal on the Procharger kit alone lol. Something always seems to pop up with a house, kid, etc.

Car is a “driver” for sure and somewhat of a stress reliever. It’s bad enough I have to park it for 3-5 months out of the year because of salt. I could only imagine watching the thing sit until I got something else in it.

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

I think we will have pretty similar setups once you're done. The advice in here is sound, if I could do it over again I would have gone way way overkill on fueling. I peak at 9lbs of boost at ~6300rpm, D1SC with 4.5" blower pully and ATI super damper + 8 rib and I'm out of fuel with the racetronix 255lph + hotwire kit although my 65# injectors still have some room according to my tuner. You'll love the setup, I'm putting down 475rwhp through the t56 and 9" so you should make a bit more due to your rear and you'll have a bigger intercooler.

transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

So going with the dual in tank seems to be the route with the fuel pump. Any input on the ati super damper? I believe I can transfer the damper to the LS2 later down the line if Summit's website is to believed but is it a necessary expense right off jump? Im thinking of either going with some 6.0 heads or just running the 241's. What would be the best avenue on that portion as it relates to cost/hp-tq (heads and damper)? The "Real Cost of Forced Induction" is an amazing write up and has been extremely helpful.

Redrokit8

I had posted another an earlier thread regarding a code issue with my new install. But I wanted to comment on the fact my install kit came complete with bigger injectors and booster fuel pump for wot. I figured this would be a good way to start and always could build from there if desired. My 01 Firehawk, 31,000 miles, was stone cold stock with the exception of Borla cat back and Y Pipe. Very impressive for a bolt on performance air pump ! Mine is a 460LE and the original 3:23 rear gear.
No drag racing in my future. At 74 yrs of age I am looking for modern day drive-able performance. I think it goes just fine but the fragile rear end is always at the back of my mind. Pretty sure with some miles put on that an update to a 12 bolt will be mandatory. I'm stalling as long as I can because several new 12 bolt assemblies put on 6 speed cars in the past were noisy and the resellers claim no one has ever complained before ! It seems that Moser kind of controls that marketplace ?
Anyway, I love you guys who have no fear of mechanical catastrophe. But when you are retired you tend to give the mechanicals a little more love !

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

My previous comment about the stock motor was to encourage you not to be afraid of hurting it. Even though you have a rare car I’m not sure these LS motors hold the same value for being the original motor that older classics may have. Others may know more on that topic.

As for the procharger setup...just like the fuel system get the good stuff up front. It’s a bigger pill to swallow, but you will be happier and save money long term.

I dont know the specifics on the fbody procharger setups, but in general...get the better intercooler up front, get the ati balancer...get the bigger crank pulley and at least 8 ribs...anything specific to the fbody that will help with belt slip(aster bracket and better flowing air filter).

On my cam only D1x I have a 7.65 crank and 4” blower I see 12.5 lbs at 6500 rpm when I spin it to 6800 rpm on race day it’s 14 psi.

Keep the 241’s for now save the money for the new motor. Put good 660 lift spring kit, better pushrods, etc in it with a cam suited for a centri. Headers and exhaust will help a bunch if you don’t already have them. A couple psi will gain more power at low boost than an expensive set of heads. When you start getting close to maxing our the blower everything becomes more critical so save the money for good heads for the next motor when they will actually matter.

LS_ELKO41

iTrader: (6)

OP I have a brand new Ati balancer for the procharger that I am no longer going to use as I am going N/A on my build. I did buy it as a blem straight from ATI. If you want it PM me and I can do $350 shipped. That's about $100 cheaper than summit. I just need to free up the cash for some prc 225 heads soon.

transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

thats a legit reply! Any kit in particular that can do the job and not have to worry about being a weak link without overspending? I’ve looked into that aster bracket and that may be something I get later down the line if I experience any issues with the original boost.

i looked into the “window washer mod” meth kit but am leaning towards a battery relocation kit and building a reservoir in its place. Other than a recent article which I believe is a current topic from what I’ve read this is well worth the investment for any boosted application.

ive started to look into the dual intake set ups and would rather buy something as a “kit” I.e. wiring harness and pumps easy to go in). I have also considered since I’m already pulling the tank down to relocate the regulator towards the front of the car (based on info correct me if I misinterpreted this) this well help once I run levels of fuel to match boost. Essentially why a water spiket is outside of the house as opposed to next to the water heater. Less area to lose psi over. Any suggestions in this area? As everyone has agreed I’d prefer to nail at least the pump and regulator down so I won’t have to worry. Always change injectors to make what’s needed.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

I don't have experience with meth. I do recommend over killing the fuel system and running the best fuel you can...whether that be meth, E85, race gas, or what ever. Pump will be fine for what you are wanting to do now, but if you decide meth is the best option for you I'd go ahead and do it "right". I will always recommend doing things using good stuff. Do not rig up a meth or fuel system use good stuff with a boost referenced regulator after the rails and a return. Use either Tr6 or Br7ef plugs...I prefer the Br7ef just for a little extra safety although probably not needed for your current boost level goals. As for plug and play type dual pump kits I don't have experience with the fbody stuff so someone else can recommend what to go with there. In the GTO world Lonnies setups seem to be well liked. I went with an external 4303 on e85 which isn't for everyone and probably doesn't sound like something you would like. It's not an oem type drop in plug and play setup and it's a loud pump. None of those things bother me and I wanted to support over 800 rwhp with a single pump that would survive continuous use which the 4303 does. Again our goals seem a little different so the dual in tank pumps is probably more for you.

Highly recommend you give Bob at Brutespeed a call. He'll set you up with the best price and make sure you get what you need. Just make sure you tell him current and long term goals as well so you can avoid replacing things and buying twice...again talking intercooler, balancer, larger crank pulley diameter for better belt wrap etc. and race blow off valve. Again just get the better stuff up front buy once cry once because you will end up wanting to upgrade all those things anyway when you go to the built motor.

transamcustomz

iTrader: (8)

exactly bro! I actually sent an email to the BruteSpeed account regarding some install manuals in order to reference what was in the kit I’m purchasing and what else is required. It was “sold” as a complete kit but I’ve found some minor deviations (outside of clamps, bolts, etc.) and I got an email back within 12 hours I believe. I always will support a company with that type of customer service!

i appreciate the help with the heads as well. Always glad to hear it that parts I have will work. I will have to look into a proper spring kit for the 241’s. I’ll probably do some garage porting of the heads/smooth them out, match the exhaust port side to the header just because why not? Nothing too crazy obviously since not much is needed with FI in my particular case.

i don’t have too many readily available e85 stations nearby so more than likely it’ll be tuned on 91. Any help with f-body guys as it pertains to the fuel system and “drop in” units with plug and play harness?