Supporting mods for Procharger LS1
Switching to this fuel type i plan to run slightly more boost than the original >10lbs I was going to run. Im looking at appx. 15#'s now. Would it be worthwhile to go to my local junkyard and grab a set of 317's already? Car currently has 241's and I have purchased new: BTR 660 kit, buckets, OEM LS7 lifters and trunion upgrade for the factory rockers (pushrod has to still be measure later down the line) and are just waiting to be installed once the motor is pulled. Only an additional $80 on a project that's getting exceedingly expensive to lower compression with the increase in boost.
Thanks for the replies and sorry to bring the build back from the dead. Ill have to get some pictures up this weekend of the parts collected and car. Exhaust, transmission, clutch and flywheel are all down and out. Next will be bringing the motor out the way the factory did it.
Switching to this fuel type i plan to run slightly more boost than the original >10lbs I was going to run. Im looking at appx. 15#'s now. Would it be worthwhile to go to my local junkyard and grab a set of 317's already? Car currently has 241's and I have purchased new: BTR 660 kit, buckets, OEM LS7 lifters and trunion upgrade for the factory rockers (pushrod has to still be measure later down the line) and are just waiting to be installed once the motor is pulled. Only an additional $80 on a project that's getting exceedingly expensive to lower compression with the increase in boost.
Thanks for the replies and sorry to bring the build back from the dead. Ill have to get some pictures up this weekend of the parts collected and car. Exhaust, transmission, clutch and flywheel are all down and out. Next will be bringing the motor out the way the factory did it.
Engine and trans out. Before degreasing
After degreasing
Cylinder walls looked good - cleaned everything up a bit.
Another angle
Rollmaster double roller, ARP main and rod bolts, melling high volume oil pump.
Improved racing baffle and crank scraper - well-machined pieces!
Last edited by transamcustomz; Sep 7, 2024 at 12:36 AM.
241’s are gone - 317’s are goin in. I had them resurfaced and then upgraded to .660 lift kit.
Ref for flow results off of a Powerblock episode.
Installed with ARP headstuds, new LS7 lifters, trunion upgrade to the rockers, hardened pushrods.
Cam specs - thanks to Brute Speed
He’ll remember this 10-20 years from now hopefully and look on this picture as I do now. He’s putting the headers on.
What else could I want?!?
It’s in!
UMI double adjustable upper and boxed lowers, billsteins with BMR springs. Powerstop brakes all the way around.
Passenger side. Starter waiting to be put in as well. I’ve read horror stories of the shorter length bolt breaking the mounting ear off the block - figured for another hundred might as well get something with a little more kick.
Pinned the crank earlier but a shot of the ATI dampener and UMI race kmember.
Top end shot. Brake booster bracket, strut tower brace, turn one HP2 power steering pump (running a derale cooler as well - TBD on mounting location), Mighty Mouse catch can, upgraded positive and negative cables.
It looks so close to being done...still need to finish off the fuel system, drain/fill all fluids, reinstall UMI lca's, sfc's, driveshaft, Watts link, dual exhaust.
Fuel system time!
Brand new (from when I purchased it 5 years ago lol) squash dual 450’s. Hobbs switch and harness included. Changing out the feed/return to -8AN.
Last edited by transamcustomz; Sep 7, 2024 at 12:42 AM.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Aeromotive 13303 and 13305
Aeromotive 13303 and 13305
Look at the flow rates for each and you'll see the 13305 flows a lot more.
You'd be fine with either, they'll both maintain the same pressure but the 13305 would probably enable you to run a lower base pressure provided the return line was -08AN or larger.
I'm running a older Aeromotive BRFPR and have my base pressure set to 45psi but can't get any lower because the ports and return are all -06AN.
On another note, I run the same cam in my turbo car, its' got a nice choppy idle, you'll love it.
CETA Mod with blackout third brake light, side markers
Procharger FMIC installed - honeycomb grille for center and fog lights.
Fragola 8AN Feed/Return Aeromotive Rails & FPR
Texas Speed 3 inch dual exhaust
Fuel system routing - looks nice but I could have saved a lot of time and headaches running it to the back rails then 180* to the FPR
FPR mounted
Before
Old Emblem Package colors
This is just pinned to the wall now lol
Looks good with this color combination on white
Dual Squash 450's installed
Before
After
Last edited by transamcustomz; Aug 14, 2025 at 06:22 PM.
I towed the vehicle to work to get my alignment done. I used another thread here as a starting point. While
it was there, I degreased the underside and cleaned the bird for the first time in 6 years.
Running the final gauges, sway bars, x11 t-bolt clamps, and it’ll be ready to be towed out for a tune.
EDIT: I found another thread referring to this issue - I have to run an LS2 water pump and have it pulled 11/32’s for alignment. The bell shape on the Mezeire pump is just long enough to slightly touch the belt of the blower on its way to the crank.
Last edited by transamcustomz; Sep 4, 2025 at 05:08 AM. Reason: Found answer
I see a MAF in the intake plumbing. I’d bet it runs out of range, if the tuner tunes with it. LS7 card MAF in a 4” tube would solve that.
Typically tuners like Speed Density with a blower.
I'm a tuner myself so just curious.
You will have to let us know
Ron
I see a MAF in the intake plumbing. I’d bet it runs out of range, if the tuner tunes with it. LS7 card MAF in a 4” tube would solve that.
Typically tuners like Speed Density with a blower.
I'm a tuner myself so just curious.
You will have to let us know
Ron
Leaving the shop this morning.
Signed and delivered to the tuner. I’ve dealt with this shop x3 since 2006 and through multiple owners and now at a brand new shop/location at Dragway 42. Buddy from work provided the tow.











