Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Need advice on a good 'fun now boost later' motor build

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-16-2019, 06:08 AM
  #21  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
 
ddnspider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 14,598
Received 1,736 Likes on 1,297 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro
The 408 will cost twice as much fully configured. I found a rebuilt LS3 for $4k. The 408 will be about $8k

Both will need misc stuff to install in the F-Body as they are both long blocks.

If I kept the LS3 stock and used the stock cam, how would that respond to boost later? Or do you highly recommend upgrading the cam?
Id go LS3 then, $4k goes a long way towards a boosted setup with fueling. As far as cam, it's your call, but while its out of the car its really worth doing some type of cam/spring upgrade. You really should do springs anyways with boost, and any power gain you make NA is going to be amplified under boost. Imagine picking up 40whp from a cam swap, now add 14 psi and that cam swap is worth 80whp and will also lower your boost level which is good because the motor is breathing better.
Old 07-17-2019, 04:59 PM
  #22  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Project GatTagO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The City of Fountains
Posts: 10,090
Received 1,386 Likes on 875 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ddnspider
.... and will also lower your boost level which is good because the motor is breathing better.
This point is often overlooked!!!

Andrew
Old 08-04-2019, 08:01 PM
  #23  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Need4Camaro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,570
Received 28 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ddnspider
Id go LS3 then, $4k goes a long way towards a boosted setup with fueling. As far as cam, it's your call, but while its out of the car its really worth doing some type of cam/spring upgrade. You really should do springs anyways with boost, and any power gain you make NA is going to be amplified under boost. Imagine picking up 40whp from a cam swap, now add 14 psi and that cam swap is worth 80whp and will also lower your boost level which is good because the motor is breathing better.
LS3 it is, going to be ordering soon, besides the longblock, mods, and all my accessories, and an LS3 intake manifold, is there anything else I need to buy for the conversion?

Also can you recommend me a good thread or something to look at as a good reference as to how to remove my motor? This will be my first time doing it.
Old 08-05-2019, 05:58 AM
  #24  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
 
ddnspider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 14,598
Received 1,736 Likes on 1,297 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro
LS3 it is, going to be ordering soon, besides the longblock, mods, and all my accessories, and an LS3 intake manifold, is there anything else I need to buy for the conversion?

Also can you recommend me a good thread or something to look at as a good reference as to how to remove my motor? This will be my first time doing it.
Nice. I didn't see what this is going in. You'll obviously need things like fuel rails and some type of harness adapter. If it's in a Gen 3 vehicle you'll need a 24x to 58x crank reluctor adapter (LPE sells a plug and play setup). For engine removal, I'm sure someone has a thread on here, but I bought some books off Amazon/book store that show color photos step by step with info that are really useful. Should pick up some of those.
Old 08-06-2019, 01:10 PM
  #25  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Need4Camaro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,570
Received 28 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ddnspider
Nice. I didn't see what this is going in. You'll obviously need things like fuel rails and some type of harness adapter. If it's in a Gen 3 vehicle you'll need a 24x to 58x crank reluctor adapter (LPE sells a plug and play setup). For engine removal, I'm sure someone has a thread on here, but I bought some books off Amazon/book store that show color photos step by step with info that are really useful. Should pick up some of those.
Going into a 4th Gen F-Body. I'm guessing the stock LS1 wiring harness will not work will it. What about PCM?
Old 08-06-2019, 01:27 PM
  #26  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
 
ddnspider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 14,598
Received 1,736 Likes on 1,297 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro
Going into a 4th Gen F-Body. I'm guessing the stock LS1 wiring harness will not work will it. What about PCM?
You can reuse most of your gen 3 sensors with a gen 4 motor and reuse the harness. Only difference is installing the knock sensors (most drill/tap the side of the block) and the crank sensor signal. Gen 4 is 58x and Gen 3 is 24x so youll need an adapter that Lingenfelter sells.
Old 08-06-2019, 05:37 PM
  #27  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Need4Camaro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,570
Received 28 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ddnspider
You can reuse most of your gen 3 sensors with a gen 4 motor and reuse the harness. Only difference is installing the knock sensors (most drill/tap the side of the block) and the crank sensor signal. Gen 4 is 58x and Gen 3 is 24x so youll need an adapter that Lingenfelter sells.
I see, for the knock sensors - Im guessing they are in a different location on the LS3 which requires harness extension which is why they tap / drill on the side of the block as not to extend the harness?

Can you link me to what you used on Amazon?
Old 08-06-2019, 05:46 PM
  #28  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
 
ddnspider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 14,598
Received 1,736 Likes on 1,297 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro
I see, for the knock sensors - Im guessing they are in a different location on the LS3 which requires harness extension which is why they tap / drill on the side of the block as not to extend the harness?

Can you link me to what you used on Amazon?
I'm saying you can reuse your existing sensors, you just have to drill and tap the side of the block. There are 2 bosses on 1side of the Gen 4 block that you can tap to screw in the Gen 3 sensors and reuse your wiring. Search on here, someone had pics.
Old 08-23-2019, 03:23 PM
  #29  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Need4Camaro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,570
Received 28 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

LS3 ordered.

I also ordered the Injector connection conversion terminals, 58x - 24x conversion module, and MAP sensor extension harness.

I noticed the Racetronics LS2 to LS1 knock sensor extension adapter harness on the Lingenfelter store. Is that needed after tapping / drilling the side of the block?

For the Throttle Body, any recommendations?

Can you think of anything else out the ordinary I need?

For fuel, just plain curious how much is the stock fuel pump able to handle? I'm thinking of upgrading that right now as well.
Old 08-24-2019, 02:35 AM
  #30  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
 
gametech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Stockbridge GA
Posts: 4,067
Likes: 0
Received 430 Likes on 306 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro
LS3 ordered.

I also ordered the Injector connection conversion terminals, 58x - 24x conversion module, and MAP sensor extension harness.

I noticed the Racetronics LS2 to LS1 knock sensor extension adapter harness on the Lingenfelter store. Is that needed after tapping / drilling the side of the block?

For the Throttle Body, any recommendations?

Can you think of anything else out the ordinary I need?

For fuel, just plain curious how much is the stock fuel pump able to handle? I'm thinking of upgrading that right now as well.
Absolutely upgrade the fuel pump during this process, but do a lot of research first.
Old 08-30-2019, 05:44 AM
  #31  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Need4Camaro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,570
Received 28 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

Went with a 92mm Throttle Body.
Ordered Racetronix Fuel Pump and harness kit
Went with Speed Engineering Headers and True Duals

Now I'm onto Cam & Spring selection...

I've been looking around and it seems the general conscience is a properly specced NA Cam Only LS3 is good to 500 RWHP. Only issue is because I am going the boost route in the future (most likely ProCharger but considering a Maggie from Hawks as well), its seeming that I need to get a cam specced for the lower RPM bands as Prochargers powerband in general is gradual through the RPM band.

With a Maggie setup, they are instant torque right at the bottom of the RPM range and I'm guessing a cam would need to be spec'd to help with out in the higher RPM band

This plus valve overlap (decreasing boost pressure) seems to be an issue for either setup.

How much would I 'lose' by going with a NA cam if later I put the procharger (or even maggie) ontop of it?

Its seeming like a Maggie would be more apt for a NA cam given most of them by nature produce their highest yields at the peak of the RPM band where the Maggie begins to lose steam... or do I have it backwards?

If I instead spec a cam for either of those S/C's, how much of a loss will I take over a NA cam? Would 480 RWHP still be obtainable?
Old 08-30-2019, 06:51 AM
  #32  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
 
ddnspider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 14,598
Received 1,736 Likes on 1,297 Posts

Default

If the roots blower is undersized it won't make how high of an rpm can you spec it'll still nose over. Something like a 228 240 116 would still pull nicely NA, drive great, and work well with either blower type.
Old 08-30-2019, 06:52 AM
  #33  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Project GatTagO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The City of Fountains
Posts: 10,090
Received 1,386 Likes on 875 Posts

Default

Do yourself a favor and and order a milder cam with less (or no) overlap. A have a buddy with a BTR Stage 2 LS3 NA cam. It rips..

Andrew
Old 09-03-2019, 02:30 PM
  #34  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Need4Camaro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,570
Received 28 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

So the LS3 is here and I need to pick it up.

What is the best way to lift it to move it onto the truck bed, and again into my garage?

I've been reading some people using the valley cover bolts and others using the bolt holes on the front and back of the heads.

The valley cover bolts are only 10mm, it would scare me to lift from there. The bolt holes on the heads, is it safe to put that much weight on the heads?
Old 09-03-2019, 03:20 PM
  #35  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
 
ddnspider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 14,598
Received 1,736 Likes on 1,297 Posts

Default

Done it with the valley cover plate, but it's 4 bolts minimum. Done it with the front and back sides of the heads.
Old 09-03-2019, 03:43 PM
  #36  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Need4Camaro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,570
Received 28 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ddnspider
Done it with the valley cover plate, but it's 4 bolts minimum. Done it with the front and back sides of the heads.
Im also reading that those bolts only need to be hand tight and the tighter they are the more risk there is of damage, is this also accurate?
Old 09-03-2019, 04:34 PM
  #37  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
 
ddnspider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 14,598
Received 1,736 Likes on 1,297 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro
Im also reading that those bolts only need to be hand tight and the tighter they are the more risk there is of damage, is this also accurate?
I want as many threads engaged as possible so it doesn't rip out. I wouldn't go crazy but I would thread them all the way down.
Old 09-04-2019, 09:53 AM
  #38  
TECH Fanatic
 
tblentrprz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,080
Received 177 Likes on 152 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro
Im also reading that those bolts only need to be hand tight and the tighter they are the more risk there is of damage, is this also accurate?
You want them snug/tight (15ft lbs). If they're loose, they can bend/break,
Old 09-04-2019, 11:52 AM
  #39  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Need4Camaro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,570
Received 28 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ddnspider
I want as many threads engaged as possible so it doesn't rip out. I wouldn't go crazy but I would thread them all the way down.
Originally Posted by tblentrprz
You want them snug/tight (15ft lbs). If they're loose, they can bend/break,
Makes sense and thats fine, just out of plain curiosity, when lifting is there any danger of having them too tight?

On Friday I'm going to be purchasing a new oil pressure sensor, cam sensor, coolant sensor, knock sensors, as well as a cam.

For the cam sensor its sounding like still will use one intended for an LS3 right?

Also anyone happen to know if the Proformer valve covers and ignition coil relocation brackets will fit under the cowl of an F-Body?
Old 09-04-2019, 11:57 AM
  #40  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
 
ddnspider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 14,598
Received 1,736 Likes on 1,297 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro
Makes sense and thats fine, just out of plain curiosity, when lifting is there any danger of having them too tight?

On Friday I'm going to be purchasing a new oil pressure sensor, cam sensor, coolant sensor, knock sensors, as well as a cam.

For the cam sensor its sounding like still will use one intended for an LS3 right?

Also anyone happen to know if the Proformer valve covers and ignition coil relocation brackets will fit under the cowl of an F-Body?
Any bolt if overtightened can break off. For cam and crank I believe you use the ls3 stuff and get the LPE 24x converter box.

Last edited by ddnspider; 09-04-2019 at 12:59 PM.


Quick Reply: Need advice on a good 'fun now boost later' motor build



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:47 AM.