Whatever you do, do it the easy way, and pull it out of the top. For whatever reason, pulling the entire engine cradle seems to be popular around here.

 

So I'm running into some issues.

In short, the knock sensor extension harnesses and the LS3 MAP Conversion harness is on backorder. The original order quoted they would be in stock by Sept 2nd. No big deal. So Sept 5th comes around and I have no update as to whether my order was shipped or not. I call them and they tell me it was a bit odd that they werent in stock as they usually get them in weekly shipments and told me they would check with their supplier and get back to me. That was also fine. The whole day goes by and no return call. So I call them back today and they tell me they will need to check with their supplier again and will get back to me. So the rest of the day goes by and no return call so I decide to call them back to see if they got any news. They told me they would contact the supplier while I was on the line (cool) ...and put me on hold for 40 minutes by which I had to start doing other things so I dropped the call and emailed them instead (I also emailed initially but didnt get a response).

I'm going to try again tomorrow but has anyone else ran into this with Ligenfelter?

 

What kind of converter and stall speed do you recommend for BTR stage 2 cam?

 

Doing it once or an NA converter and swap out when you go boost?

 

gimme both options, havent decided... I may change my plans and just remain NA. Other stuff coming up and after this its probably going to be awhile before I can really give the 4th Gen this kind of attention.

 

Picky picky lol. I think your choice of boost will determine your converter so if its just an NA LS3 see what those guys are specing. Generally people are in the 3600-4000 range and use a good company like Yank for instance.

 

BTR Stage 2 Cam is on the way, Also ordered a 3 Bolt Cam Gear.

Should I change the timing chain? If so, what would you recommend and will it require a different front plate cover?

Another thing that popped into my mind is my MAF and Intake. Is it recommended I step up to a 100mm MAF or is the stock one okay? Reason being is I have a 92mm TB and I'm wondering if the stock MAF is going to be an issue. I've heard of guys pushing their stock MAF up to 450 - 500 RWHP but not sure if thats the norm. Im guessing I also need to upgrade my LID. Currently I am using a FTP Lid but not the larger version of it.

 

A new stock chain is just fine. I'd spend the $20 on a chain dampener though. Mods only required when you start trying to put in a double roller chain.

As far as intake setup, it really depends on whether or not you want to spend a bunch of money now while NA or just keep everything as-is because you'll go boost later. A 100mm MAF will give you more head room for boost unless you plan to run speed density, then you won't need the MAF period.

 

If the stock one is okay then I'll stick with it for now. I just want to make sure I'm not going to choke the motor.

 

Bringing the MAF subject back up as I've been reading and thinking on it all day. I couldn't help but notice 'alot' of people hate upgrading the stock MAF as they say it causes more problems than its worth. I can't help but wonder if these people ever had their MAF tables tuned or not. I guess I'm wondering if a 100mm MAF with a tuned MAF table will still operate well or if I should completely avoid a MAF upgrade now or in the future...

I also need to replace all my suspension...or at the very least my shocks. -- Any suggestions for those? Would like it to be able to handle pretty well, 1/4th mile is secondary although would like to keep that in check as well. would suffice. Should I also switch to a Tubular K?

 

There's no reason a 100mm maf won't idle and drive well if tuned right,been there done that. I highly recommend you check out my MAF sticky and look up the honeycomb screen as that made a huge difference in stabilizing the frequency output of the maf. Everyone jumps ship and runs a x bar map but it's not mandatory.

Suspension work others know better.

 

It partly boils down to the economics of time and money. GM saw fit to run backup systems by way of having MAF, SD, and a very rudimentary alpha n setup to insure you would never be stranded on the side of the road, among other things. For the average car buyer, this is a good thing, but for people doing their own tuning on upgrade mods that outflow the stock systems, why bother upgrading and retuning all that crap? Going SD is just far easier. All of us have seen SD only Dodge products that run just fine, most of us have seen Alpha N motorcycles that run just fine, and a few of us have even seen MAF only Fords that run just fine. If you are only going to use one of those on a GM product, their software and hardware make SD the obvious choice.

 

Because A) it's not far easier. I can dial in a MAF curve MUCH faster than a multi-bar VE table and plenty of tuners would agree. B) at WOT, did GM choose to look solely at the MAP or MAF for airflow estimation? The MAF. The MAP is ignored at WOT. C) I trust guys like Greg Banish who tune both aftermarket and the OEM's and suggest running a MAF. D) The MAF will compensate for temperature better than a MAP sensor without requiring a retune.

 

Regarding the Stall Converter, and I guess this really comes down to my indecisiveness. I'm not 100% sure if I'm going to build for the quarter mile or if I want to take it through curves. I kind of want an all around street machine.

I was recommended a 3200 stall if I go that route as it would be better for auto crossing and still be okay on the quarter mile... but that's much lower than the 3600 - 4000 range... how bad would that hurt me at the 1/4th mile if I decided to go, and if I went 3600 how bad would that hurt in autocrossing?

Also would 3200 be okay for a super charger if I did add it later?

 

With a BTR stage 2, I'd go 3600.

 

ddnspider, I think you did not quite get my point. I in no way think tuning sd is easier than tuning a maf. I think it is easier than properly doing both. As an example, my dad has a low boost 4.8 truck that is running 2bar sd and still has the MAF. Since the MAF is not maxed, they are both tuned fully. The temperature compensation has been tuned for the sd in weather conditions ranging from 15*F to 100*F. That was a total pain in the ***. However, on motors making enough to max the MAF tables, I would rather not skew tables to work around it. Instead, I do just SD. Skewing tables may be easy with a stick, but with an automatic it really opens a can of worms.

 

I've run into maxxed MAFs on several cars and scaling them didn't affect driveability on a stick or auto. I find it easier to scale and run solely off the MAF. Others think a 2/3 bar SD tune is easier. Different preferences that's all.

 

Yank 3600 Stall ordered. I initially ordered a single disc lockup but Im thinking twice on that. I'm thinking of calling them up and upgrading that to a triple disc lockup. Thoughts on that? I'm thinking triple disc will be better for F.I.

100 mm ligenfelter MAF ordered as well. What LID should I pair this up with?

I'm going to be beginning soon. I've heard that its not a good idea to use the trap door method for the fuel pump replacement because the racetronix pump will be suspictable to picking up dirt and debris at the bottom of the tank and the right way is to drop the tank and clean it out. Thoughts on this?

 

I ran a single disc on my blower car without issue, but a triple will be more stout.
My only experience with 100mm MAF's is FI so can't help on the lid.
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I've cut the trap door in several cars. The fact that you cut the sheet metal above the tank has no baring on picking up dirt and debris on the bottom of the tank. You don't cut the bottom of the tank, you cut the hatch area to access the top of the tank where the fuel pump assembly is mounted. Trap door FTW.

 

I think they were meaning more-so pre-existing dirt, ect. But that is fine, if the trap door method works I'll go that route. As for the hotwire kit, I should still be able to run the wiring without dropping the tank shouldn't I?