I have the Huron v3 t6 kit with a crt 80mm billet BW 96mm with 1.32ar. 127lb fic, 6" bell I/C, lsx102, comp can don't have spec sheet pulled to 7k on dyno, lq9, weisco piston, lunati pro mod rods,stock crank, patriot stage 3 heads, and 8.5 to 1 compression. Paid 600 for a street tune on 93 octane no meth. Made 650rwhp and 720rwtq I'm thinking it was 13 degrees timing on 15lbs of boost. $300 more (900 total) for a race tune made 750rwhp 826rwtq on c20, file said it was 20lbs with 15 degrees of timing. With a FTI 4.5 turbo 400 and 4k stall ssr 9inch tq converter. Do my hp and tq numbers look low or right on the money for my setup?
I did have a rear mount sts 76mm Garrett with 60lb injectors the same shop had tuned with a 6 speed and it made 680rwhp and 750rwtq on 14lbs in cooler weather. The garrett 76mm was tiny and was suppose to flow 78lb/min and this bw 80 billet is suppose to flow 132lb/min and good for 1350hp. I paid close to 17 grand for the fti turbo 400 tq conv, billet flywheel, shifter ,and Huron speed kit, 2 bov, 2 wastegates both turbosmarts, -8an fuel lines, 127lb injectors,twin 450, upgraded 6 inch bell intercooler, etc ,etc etc. I'm just disappointed with the final hp and tq numbers. I know a auto will loose horsepower over my old 6 speed but I thought for sure 750 to 800 pump and close to 1k on race gas. I lost 17k and my air conditioner for the same numbers, lol, while I cry inside. Do I need a different tuner or is this normal. What can I do to get my up numbers to 850 to 900rwhp? I was wanting a 5.99 and drive it to and from the track and 650 isn't going to do it. E85? Where are you guys getting the correct computer and having your VIN attached to the computer and buying the flex fuel sensor for our cars.( 2002 camaro) Thanks a million for any help talking me off the ledge. By the way FTI and Huron was absolutely awesome to deal with. Just seeing a lot of threads where 6.0 80 billet 900 to 1000rwhp, so i assumed with race gas i would be close to that and im not close. Just a little frustrated for the cabbage I spent. Any ideas on more power? Is e85 my only option? My fuel system is all set up for e85 just need computer to read flex fuel to 20+ pounds of boost.im near knoxville if anyone knows of s good tuner in the area.

 

Find a way to contact Joenova

 

Timing on C16 seems light. But agree comparing t56 numbers to stalled th400 with a 9 inch isn't exactly great.

 

What rpm? What IAT? Seems your close to hp limit of 93 with 6.0 unless IATs are < 120F and rpm > 7500. Compression seems pretty low to meet expectations at 15psi?

 

You'll only lose roughly 20rwhp with the stalled 400 vs the T56. Now that 9 inch on the other hand...... I'd just take it to the track and see how you stand, might be faster than you think it is.

 

Your right i need to get a time on pump gas, it feels strong so if I can get 6.40 or 6.30 on pump gas maybe the extra 100hp 100tq might push me close on race gas. I don't have a cage yet so I'd probably only get one shot at the track and I'd like to have the safety anyway. Didn't know it was only 20 rwhp, it blows my mind that tiny Garrett can make as much power as my bw 80 billet wheel and on a rear mount sts set up.

 

Starting losing power after 6700rpm set rev limiter at 7k and it pulled there. They didn't tell me iat, I was hoping with that big 6 inch bell I/C IT would keep it cool enough for 17 or 18 pounds on pump gas with my lower compression. They may have went really conservative. I was really wanting maximum output on 93 tune because I never really planned on running race gas but now that I've seen my numbers I'm definitely going to have to use race gas to get me there.

 

Big fat no on that one there partner. There is no set hp loss number, 20 wouldnt be it anyway. Any drivetrain loss (same drivetrain) in say a 300hp car would be significantly more loss in a 1k hp car even though nothing in the drivetrain has changed. Its just the way physics work.

 

True.
The amount of torque lost through the drivetrain is a from both efficiency and rotating mass.

Efficiency is usually a set %.
https://x-engineer.org/automotive-en...es-efficiency/
If you don't want to understand the math, just skip to the bottom where it says "Overall efficiency of the drivetrain" and it will give you a basic idea.

The other loss is rotating mass. Force = Mass x Acceleration. The faster you accelerate the mass, the more torque is soaked up in the process.
If you dyno a car at 300 horsepower and then crank the boost up to 1500 horsepower, it will accelerate faster and show a larger torque loss through the drivetrain.
If its a steady state dyno and you lock the acceleration rates between the 2 power levels at the exact same acceleration, in theory, there will be no additional drivetrain loss from rotating mass.

 

Ideally, reconfigure fuel system to run e85 and motor to run e85 at 8K (compression and cam, maybe springs) and you'll get your 1000whp (and more). Assuming turbo is not turbine limited (back pressure too high for 8K).

 

http://forcedinductions.com/consumption364.htm

Will that turbo do 1000+whp through that drivetrain on that C.I.?

 

 

Uncorrected you made 20 or so less with the TH400.
Corrected numbers were more than 80 horsepower different.

It looks like you had some pretty bad air on the T56 dyno pull.
Don't confuse that with the T56 not offering much power over the auto.

 

Yes, the T56 offers less parasitic drag. And yes, if you compare the corrected numbers, they do look better. But when it comes to how the car moves, there's no comparison. Which I'm thinking/hoping that op cares more about than a number.

 

Yes, I care more about a time slip than a hp number. It definitely feels faster with the th400 but my old *** isn't missing gears with the rmvb either. Also thought it was interesting my rear mount made 680 at 5600k rpm then got chocked up on the small garret turbo and it takes the bw to 6700 before hitting the wall making th same horsepower 1100 less rpm .I've got the standard cover because I would have to remove abs to put a race cover on it. Thanks for the help does anyone know where to buy the correct computer for 02 camaro for e85 and flex fuel sensor? I know I would have to have my VIN attached for up tuners. I've got the twin 450 and fuel line ready for e 85 I just really need the computer and flex fuel sensor and a retune. I'm going to drive the car on pump gas tune for now just to get some miles on it. Also they sent me the wrong springs for my wastegates 7psi instead of 14psi and they said it was hard to add anymore boost. Would the 14lb spring allow me to get to 23 lbs on race gas?

 

Id maybe figure out the cam specs if its way off that could be your low power. The fact that power dives at 6700 makes me think that the cam could be spec’d wrong. That set up should make power over 7k easily. Also every dyno is different so just because someone made x amount of power with a similar set up was it made on the same dyno? Thats why I agree with some of the other guys get it to the track and see what it does. It may actually move out like you want.

 

LMFAO GTFO with that crap. EVERY TH400 swap I've ever seen (more than I can count) has lost anywhere from 100 to 150 rwhp on cars making between 700-1000 horsepower on average with a true back to back dyno keeping conditions the same, etc. Your dyno results are 100% flawed.

 

8.5:1 compression is relatively low, that's what my old combo was because it was originally built for 91 octane since E85 wasn't really a thing back then. That power level doesn't sound out of the ordinary for the octane level through a TH400 though and a lot depends on the dyno being used, etc. Where is the dyno graph and what kind of dyno is it? Picking up 100 rwhp with another 5 psi of boost tells me it's on the right track but you could probably get away with more timing on C16, it's a pretty slow burning fuel. Read your plugs, adjust from there.

 

Oh wow, you'll lose 150rwhp just by going from the t56 to the 400...... ok.

 

Hell the one we did just last week went from an auto 10 speed to a TH400 and went from making right at 1000 rwhp to 865 rwhp under identical conditions and the A10 is actually a very efficient lockup auto trans and is comparable to a manual trans. General rule of thumb that everybody should follow is that when you don't know something just don't say anything at all. I hope you don't actually believe you only lost 20 horsepower in your swap.