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I have reading as much as possible on drag tires for my car and I am a bit confused. Based on my setup (noted in my signature) and 3.73 gears (hopefully 600whp), I believe I should be using 28" tires.
Based on that, I have concluded that perhaps these four may be an option; however, please direct me in the right direction if I am wrong:
Mickey Thompson - ET Street R - P275/60R15 / 28X11.50R15 - #3559 (28.2")
Mickey Thompson - ET Street Radial Pro - P275/60R15 - #3754X (28.2")
Mickey Thompson - ET Street S/S - P295/55R15 / 28X12.50R15 - #3454 (28")
Mickey Thompson - ET Street R Bias - 28X12.50-15LT - #3561 (28")
I was really leaning towards the ET Street S/S (#3). I've heard a lot of good things. I heard that some tires give too much sway. The track is about 30 minutes from me, I would prefer to drive on the drag tires rather than swapping them out on-site just for convenience.
If it helps, I will be running Weld S71 15X10 (7.5BS) wheels. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.
I ran number 3 for both track and street duty. Got tired of fighting the launch with a radial and a 6 speed, swapped to Hoosier QTPs and never looked back. Street duty is still a radial though
I ran number 3 for both track and street duty. Got tired of fighting the launch with a radial and a 6 speed, swapped to Hoosier QTPs and never looked back. Street duty is still a radial though
28X11.50-15LT QT Pro DOT?
I got two tires for $372 on Summit. Great deal. I may just give the MT's a try. Not planning on competitive drag racing. If I notice the MT's are just too horrible to fit my purpose then I will give the Hoosier's a shot.
Last edited by rising_4rm_ashes; Sep 10, 2019 at 07:58 AM.
I just took an AlkyControl Kit for the fbody off of jjcamaro02's hands. Wasn't really my intention to go this route, but he offered it for a great price; therefore, alky will be going in. Hopefully, this will extend the life of this motor. Now, it does come with the twin 10+15 nozzles kit. Would this be over kill? Should I hook it up as is? Should I just hook up one nozzle (perhaps the 15)? Also, I've seen a mix of comments referring to where the nozzle should be mounted? My car is on a SD tune; therefore, should it be a few inches before the IAT or after the IAT?
Wondering if you guys can help me out here. I was looking in the forums for what people are doing with their evap purge solenoid routing in boost applications. I know most people delete it; however, I would prefer to keep it. I was wondering if people just re-route the line to another vacuum source or place a one-way check valve somehow. I was a little dumbfounded to find some people running boost and leaving the evap canister as is when technically under boost I would assume it can inflate or pressurize the fuel tank. Let me know your thoughts/suggestions. Thank you.
I believe there are certain conditions where the EVAP is allowed to turn on and I didn't think WOT was 1 of them, but couldnt guarantee it. I've never rerouted or modified the EVAP and never had an issue on any boosted Fbody I've worked on up to ~20 psi.
I believe there are certain conditions where the EVAP is allowed to turn on and I didn't think WOT was 1 of them, but couldnt guarantee it. I've never rerouted or modified the EVAP and never had an issue on any boosted Fbody I've worked on up to ~20 psi.
In that case, I will leave it as is. I will surely be under 10 psi. Thank you for your input as usual @ddnspider .
Alright. Update. Finally got the motor turned over on Monday. Today I filled all the fluids, got the bubbles out of the coolant system and let it run for a little over 35 minutes. Car maintained temperature and remained stable. I am missing just a few more parts such as the bypass valve for the procharger, finish the electrical portion of the meth system, and waiting on some hangers from Speed Engineering. I ordered the exhaust from them and apparently the box had no hangers so I mounted it all up by the rear is sagging.
Question: I did end up running PTFE lines (8an & 6an), though I was not planning on it, but the original lines were very rusty so I thought it would be worth the investment. Now with the exhaust mounted I see that the lines are fairly close to the exhaust. Moving the fuel lines would be an option; but it probably wouldn't solve the problem.
I will get a few pics uploaded on the exhaust and PTFE lines shortly. In the meantime, here are a few other pics. BTW, I made brackets for the intercooler to mount securely. What you see in this picture is purely just presentation to figure out what I would do to.
Last edited by rising_4rm_ashes; May 19, 2020 at 12:30 PM.
Do you guys think the fuel lines will be okay or will I run into issues with vapor lock? Should I sleeve the lines to protect them from radiant heat? Or should I just leave it like that and I should be fine? They are PTFE lines.
Looks good man. Couldn’t you just wrap the exhaust in that area to keep heat off lines and wrap lines as well? Underneath looks good what did you paint it with? Thinking of using POR15 on mine but seems like a lot of work and wondered if I just used primer and paint rattle cans if that would be good... Camaro never sees rain, garage kept and just a weekend cruiser.
Looks good man. Couldn’t you just wrap the exhaust in that area to keep heat off lines and wrap lines as well? Underneath looks good what did you paint it with? Thinking of using POR15 on mine but seems like a lot of work and wondered if I just used primer and paint rattle cans if that would be good... Camaro never sees rain, garage kept and just a weekend cruiser.
I was thinking the same thing. I guess i will order the sleeves for the hoses first. Wrapping the exhaust may be a pain around those clamps. The Clamp area is usually the area closest to the fuel lines. I used an undercoating paint. No POR15, though that is a very very good product. I used a local product. It isnt as thick as POR15 though.
Yes might be kinda tricky.. Did you have to brush it on?
No. It was a spray. It is called, Rust Barrier. It isn't the best product, but I barely drive this car and it does not see rain or snow. If it did, I may have considered something stronger. The underbody on this car is in pretty good shape too.
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