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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 10:05 AM
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Default Sebring Silver Build

Guys,

I've read countless threads and I am still contemplating which route to go, hopefully you guys can help motivate me in the right direction.

I currently have a procharger P1SC-1 setup on a LS1 engine w/ twin intercoolers. Since the car was recently totaled I most likely will be going with a FMIC setup from Bob, unless I see that the intercoolers are worth the repair.

Budget is around $4000, but I can throw a little more if necessary.
I want to stick around 650WHP.
It's a street car that I enjoy driving every other weekend and stepping on the gas from time to time. Not an all out drag car. No meth, no E85.

Here are my two choices that I have come up with on my own so far:

Option #1:
Build the LS1
Wiseco 3.903 -11
K1 Rods
Stock Crank
PRC 15-Degree 220cc As-Cast Cathedral Heads 64cc
LS9 Gaskets
Speed Inc. SC2 Camshaft
This should but me right around 9 to 5 compression. Correct me if I am wrong.

Option #2:
Sell my engine.
Purchase an L92.
Refresh the L92.
Stock long block.
LS3 Intake
Possibly the SC2 cam (I already have it.)

Let me know what you guys think. I am open to all your input and constructive criticism.

Thanks again!

Last edited by rising_4rm_ashes; Aug 8, 2019 at 11:17 AM.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 10:08 AM
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What year is the LS1 block? Early ones were prone to cracked sleeves.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 10:11 AM
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Is your current engine damaged? For that HP I'd run with what you've got.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
What year is the LS1 block? Early ones were prone to cracked sleeves.
1999. I thought it was just the bad pistons. Didn't know about the sleeves too.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Is your current engine damaged? For that HP I'd run with what you've got.
It is not. The accident damaged the frame, cracked the radiator, but never touched the engine. I've started the engine several times and it is still running strong.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by rising_4rm_ashes
It is not. The accident damaged the frame, cracked the radiator, but never touched the engine. I've started the engine several times and it is still running strong.
You shouldn't crack sleeves or pistons at 650whp assuming the motor is healthy and the tune is good. Being a centrifugal blower, the power is linear and max boost is max RPM, which is easier on the drivetrain. I'd run it as is and save the money for future use.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
You shouldn't crack sleeves or pistons at 650whp assuming the motor is healthy and the tune is good. Being a centrifugal blower, the power is linear and max boost is max RPM, which is easier on the drivetrain. I'd run it as is and save the money for future use.
You're implying that I leave the short block alone? I also don't want to deal with the hassles of meth. Just strickly 93 octane. No E85.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by rising_4rm_ashes
You're implying that I leave the short block alone? I also don't want to deal with the hassles of meth. Just strickly 93 octane. No E85.
Correct. stock shortblock +93.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Correct. stock shortblock +93.
Good to hear. Do you feel that the heads are adequate?

Edit: I take that back. I think 64cc with the stock shortblock won't help my cause. I'd probably need 68cc chambers to help bring my compression down and compensate with higher boost to meet the 600-650whp mark.

Last edited by rising_4rm_ashes; Aug 8, 2019 at 11:46 AM.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rising_4rm_ashes
Good to hear. Do you feel that the heads are adequate?

Edit: I take that back. I think 64cc with the stock shortblock won't help my cause. I'd probably need 68cc chambers to help bring my compression down and compensate with higher boost to meet the 600-650whp mark.
Many usually get the 317 heads that are 72cc to drop the CR so they can run more boost safely. Being that you're octane limited, it's not a bad idea and 317's also have better flow stock than your current heads. If you found a cheap set of ported 317's it'll take less boost to hit the number.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Many usually get the 317 heads that are 72cc to drop the CR so they can run more boost safely. Being that you're octane limited, it's not a bad idea and 317's also have better flow stock than your current heads. If you found a cheap set of ported 317's it'll take less boost to hit the number.
PM'd you something. Thanks for your input. I appreciate that your are being considerate on how much I spend.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by rising_4rm_ashes
PM'd you something. Thanks for your input. I appreciate that your are being considerate on how much I spend.
Link looks good. You already cammed? If not and don't plan to those are fine. If you're going to can you'll have to swap springs. A decent blower cam will make hitting your goal easier at less boost. I actually really like my Titan 2 cam and it would work well with your blower.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Link looks good. You already cammed? If not and don't plan to those are fine. If you're going to can you'll have to swap springs. A decent blower cam will make hitting your goal easier at less boost. I actually really like my Titan 2 cam and it would work well with your blower.
Yeah, I have springs, ARP bolts, gasket, everything ready to go. Just need heads and valves. I have the Speed Inc SC2 cam which is what I plan on using. Have you any experience with those? or heard anything?
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rising_4rm_ashes
Yeah, I have springs, ARP bolts, gasket, everything ready to go. Just need heads and valves. I have the Speed Inc SC2 cam which is what I plan on using. Have you any experience with those? or heard anything?
Na, haven't used it, but based off the spec's it should work fine.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Na, haven't used it, but based off the spec's it should work fine.
I called the shop that has the heads and I felt confident enough to purchase them. I guess I'm sticking to the stock bottom end. Hopefully it will last me a good time around the 600 WHP range.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rising_4rm_ashes
I called the shop that has the heads and I felt confident enough to purchase them. I guess I'm sticking to the stock bottom end. Hopefully it will last me a good time around the 600 WHP range.
Keep the AFR in the low 11s and the timing low and it should live if it's healthy.
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Old Aug 8, 2019 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Keep the AFR in the low 11s and the timing low and it should live if it's healthy.
I will keep that in mind when I get it to the tuner. Thanks.
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Old Aug 9, 2019 | 07:24 AM
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keep the stock ls1. that little p1sc, as long as the tune is right will be fine on there
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Old Aug 9, 2019 | 07:45 AM
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My really good friend had a P1SC on a ~90k mile stock 01 LS1 shortblock. Had some hand ported 317's, Comp 918 springs, with LS9 Gaskets and that same SpeedInc. SC2 cam. Once he got the fueling sorted out, it made over 600 all day in FL heat. Like 620 (with no-meth) and beat the snot out of it for years. Was a daily driver, and fast car. He never did hurt it. He sold the car to another buddy of his and then the new owner put a D1SC on it. It's still going strong from what I heard last.. It was in a C5 with a single FMIC. It was a nice setup especially for what he had in it. Only thing I would have changed was some BTR dual springs.

I have option 1 in my own car. LS6 block and crank. Wiseco -11 3.903's, K1 rods and stock crank. 227/234 cam. CNC'd big valved stock heads, ARP studs, meth injection... etc... Maxed out a Vortech T-trim head unit with it.. Makes good power and it's a strong bottom end.

Just depends on what you want to do with it..
If you want ~600rwhp. Personally, I'd run the stock bottom end with some better heads and run it til it breaks. However, if you do another motor for it.. I'd much rather have a forged piston LS1 or 6.0 bottom end than a stock piston L92 bottom end on boost.
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Old Aug 9, 2019 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve01SS
My really good friend had a P1SC on a ~90k mile stock 01 LS1 shortblock. Had some hand ported 317's, Comp 918 springs, with LS9 Gaskets and that same SpeedInc. SC2 cam. Once he got the fueling sorted out, it made over 600 all day in FL heat. Like 620 (with no-meth) and beat the snot out of it for years. Was a daily driver, and fast car. He never did hurt it. He sold the car to another buddy of his and then the new owner put a D1SC on it. It's still going strong from what I heard last.. It was in a C5 with a single FMIC. It was a nice setup especially for what he had in it. Only thing I would have changed was some BTR dual springs.

I have option 1 in my own car. LS6 block and crank. Wiseco -11 3.903's, K1 rods and stock crank. 227/234 cam. CNC'd big valved stock heads, ARP studs, meth injection... etc... Maxed out a Vortech T-trim head unit with it.. Makes good power and it's a strong bottom end.

Just depends on what you want to do with it..
If you want ~600rwhp. Personally, I'd run the stock bottom end with some better heads and run it til it breaks. However, if you do another motor for it.. I'd much rather have a forged piston LS1 or 6.0 bottom end than a stock piston L92 bottom end on boost.
Thanks Steve. I appreciate your input. That's really comforting to hear. I'm glad that I am heading in the right direction. I'll be sure to provide some updates when I'm ready. For now, I just got my hands on a 99 Z28, unmolested, and will be working on migrating all the parts from my SS to the Z28.

Additionally, since I will be transplanting the engine, I will also be replacing most of the seals (like a little refresh), is there anything you recommend I do for sure since the motor is going to be out? No need to touch the rings? Sealed power rings or open the stock ones a little more (if so, how much)?

Thanks.

Last edited by rising_4rm_ashes; Aug 10, 2019 at 12:51 PM.
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