Cutting out under WOT in boost areas
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque, NM
I was curious about that.. cause in my other test runs today I was seeing "full" boost. But now im wondering about the offset and scalar. But idk. When I was seeing the "full" boost vs this 110 kpa thing the offset and scalar was the same so that's kinda weird. I guess I need to look up my info and make sure its correct. I've never gotten 100kpa on my KOEO though.. should I be concerned about that?
200 and 10.33 is my MAP info
Map is an acdelco from GM 12615136
Last edited by Soupermn; Aug 17, 2019 at 04:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque, NM
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque, NM
Hang on.....when you're saying 120-140kpa, are you saying that is boost pressure or you're saying it's 20-40kpa above atmosphere (ie NA)??? If you're only making 2 psi of boost no wonder stuffs off. Afr too rich, probably not enough timing and plugs/gap too cold. If 140kpa is boost disregard.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
Given you are SD, and MAP sensor is a critical item....of course you should be extremely concerned if it is not at or very close to 100kpa KOEO. Unless you're at some crazy altitude.
Test it, make sure it is right. Otherwise everything is a waste of time
Test it, make sure it is right. Otherwise everything is a waste of time
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
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From: Norn Iron
If it is unplugged and the ecu is expecting it, then it will have defaulted somewhere. Yes that is also a problem. You cant just randomly unplug sensors the ecu expects without consequences.
As to how much it affects tuning...depends on what the person tuning it has told the ecu.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque, NM
And by testing.. should I be applying a small amount of pressure or vacuum and reading the voltages to see if its correct?
Thanks for being so patient with me everybody!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque, NM
If it is unplugged and the ecu is expecting it, then it will have defaulted somewhere. Yes that is also a problem. You cant just randomly unplug sensors the ecu expects without consequences.
As to how much it affects tuning...depends on what the person tuning it has told the ecu.
As to how much it affects tuning...depends on what the person tuning it has told the ecu.
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From: Norn Iron
Okay, so the closest I think I ever got to 100KPA was 85 or 88kpa. That was with 200 and 8.0. Now how close should it be? Or what's livable? And what do you consider crazy elevation? I live in Albuquerque, NM where my "base" elevation is around 5500ft, but all around me itll go 2 or 3,000 ft over a few miles.
And by testing.. should I be applying a small amount of pressure or vacuum and reading the voltages to see if its correct?
Thanks for being so patient with me everybody!
And by testing.. should I be applying a small amount of pressure or vacuum and reading the voltages to see if its correct?
Thanks for being so patient with me everybody!
Test throughout it's entire operating range that what is displayed on the manual gauge, is what you see on the ecu.
I don't experience altitude changes here....max would be about 1000ft lol.
But around sea level it should be damn close to 100kpa. Maybe a variation of 95-105 at most depending on weather conditions etc.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque, NM
Get a mityvac or other device you can apply pressure and vacuum.
Test throughout it's entire operating range that what is displayed on the manual gauge, is what you see on the ecu.
I don't experience altitude changes here....max would be about 1000ft lol.
But around sea level it should be damn close to 100kpa. Maybe a variation of 95-105 at most depending on weather conditions etc.
Test throughout it's entire operating range that what is displayed on the manual gauge, is what you see on the ecu.
I don't experience altitude changes here....max would be about 1000ft lol.
But around sea level it should be damn close to 100kpa. Maybe a variation of 95-105 at most depending on weather conditions etc.
but first things first make sure the scaling is correct. If it's not correct then would I move the offset until I show what I'm reading on the guage? 9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
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From: Norn Iron
If it's not correct, you need to correct numbers for your ecu. You'd need to speak to HPT, or a tuner or someone who has used your specific sensor or something.
Or you can play with the data and test until it is all correct. I do not use stock ecu's or HPT etc, so cant comment.
Or you can play with the data and test until it is all correct. I do not use stock ecu's or HPT etc, so cant comment.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque, NM
Excellent!! Thank you!! I'll do some testing with it in the morning and see what my readings are. Scalar is 200 and I've heard a few different numbers as far as the offset goes anything from 8.0, to 8.33, 10.0, 10.33 etc. I'll just have to play with it I guess and see what's up. Talk to you guys soon!
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
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From: Ohio
I finally got around to opening your tune. I haven't read through all of the replies so I'm sure someone has probably mentioned these.
Few red flags.
1. MAP sensor settings aren't correct. You just took the linear and changed it to 200 and left the offset at 10.33. You need to find the correct linear/offset settings for your sensor.
2. You still have a TON of work to do on your DTCs. It doesn't look like you've edited them at all. Some of these have to be changed.
3. You have no hysteresis for your MAP in Power Enrich, its just zero. Your PE settings could use some slight adjusting, but they shouldn't be the cause of your problems.
4. Your IAT sensor is unplugged and is reading below zero temps, causing wide changes to your fueling. This is probably the biggest red flag.
Fix those.
Few red flags.
1. MAP sensor settings aren't correct. You just took the linear and changed it to 200 and left the offset at 10.33. You need to find the correct linear/offset settings for your sensor.
2. You still have a TON of work to do on your DTCs. It doesn't look like you've edited them at all. Some of these have to be changed.
3. You have no hysteresis for your MAP in Power Enrich, its just zero. Your PE settings could use some slight adjusting, but they shouldn't be the cause of your problems.
4. Your IAT sensor is unplugged and is reading below zero temps, causing wide changes to your fueling. This is probably the biggest red flag.
Fix those.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque, NM
I finally got around to opening your tune. I haven't read through all of the replies so I'm sure someone has probably mentioned these.
Few red flags.
1. MAP sensor settings aren't correct. You just took the linear and changed it to 200 and left the offset at 10.33. You need to find the correct linear/offset settings for your sensor.
2. You still have a TON of work to do on your DTCs. It doesn't look like you've edited them at all. Some of these have to be changed.
3. You have no hysteresis for your MAP in Power Enrich, its just zero. Your PE settings could use some slight adjusting, but they shouldn't be the cause of your problems.
4. Your IAT sensor is unplugged and is reading below zero temps, causing wide changes to your fueling. This is probably the biggest red flag.
Fix those.
Few red flags.
1. MAP sensor settings aren't correct. You just took the linear and changed it to 200 and left the offset at 10.33. You need to find the correct linear/offset settings for your sensor.
2. You still have a TON of work to do on your DTCs. It doesn't look like you've edited them at all. Some of these have to be changed.
3. You have no hysteresis for your MAP in Power Enrich, its just zero. Your PE settings could use some slight adjusting, but they shouldn't be the cause of your problems.
4. Your IAT sensor is unplugged and is reading below zero temps, causing wide changes to your fueling. This is probably the biggest red flag.
Fix those.
As for the map sensor, when I upgraded to the 2bar map os, it had those values in there already so I left them as they were, does this mean changing the min/max map settings too if I do that? Or would I just leave those? But I will look into the proper calibration info.
As for DTC's I thought I had removed what I needed but I will definitely go through those this evening as well to make sure I didnt miss anything. Thank you! Didnt even think about that. I know certain codes can cause a "limp mode" with things or interfere so I need to address those.
I will add the hysteresis back into the file and take a look at my PE values and see if I cant smooth them out a little more.
And as stated I completely removed my MAF sensor from the vehicle, luckily I still have the pigtail wired in, so should I either A. Redhook it back up so i can at least have the temp sensor? Will it still work even with the MAF failed? Or B. Wire in a new temp sensor?
You guys are so awesome thank you all so much for all the help, seems with every post I learn something new. Also, which tune file are you referring to? I've posted a few of them on here, and I'd like to start with the right one.
You guys rock!!
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
You need to wire in a new temp sensor. You can buy a temp sensor with a pigtail, and you'll just need to splice the 2 wires out of the MAF connector into it.
Also, Innovate widebands are notorious for problems similar to yours. They're basically the Nickleback of widebands
Also, Innovate widebands are notorious for problems similar to yours. They're basically the Nickleback of widebands
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
I'll try to make it easy on you. Do them one at a time until it starts getting better.
1. Put a 6 Kpa hysteresis back into the PE.
2. Look up the correct numbers for your MAP sensor and put them into the tune.
3. Buy an IAT sensor with pigtail and mount it either in your intake manifold (plastic GM IAT mounts easily into the EVAP port on a truck manifold with a 1/2" drill bit and a rubber mallet) or in the charge pipe between the intercooler and throttle body (nowhere to mount it on a car intake, so get a weld on bung too). Cut 2 wires out of MAF connector and splice them to new pigtail.
4. Start fixing DTCs for things no longer in use.
5. If it's still not fixed, ditch the Innovate wideband in favor of an AEM, 14point7, etc.
1. Put a 6 Kpa hysteresis back into the PE.
2. Look up the correct numbers for your MAP sensor and put them into the tune.
3. Buy an IAT sensor with pigtail and mount it either in your intake manifold (plastic GM IAT mounts easily into the EVAP port on a truck manifold with a 1/2" drill bit and a rubber mallet) or in the charge pipe between the intercooler and throttle body (nowhere to mount it on a car intake, so get a weld on bung too). Cut 2 wires out of MAF connector and splice them to new pigtail.
4. Start fixing DTCs for things no longer in use.
5. If it's still not fixed, ditch the Innovate wideband in favor of an AEM, 14point7, etc.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque, NM
I'll try to make it easy on you. Do them one at a time until it starts getting better.
1. Put a 6 Kpa hysteresis back into the PE.
2. Look up the correct numbers for your MAP sensor and put them into the tune.
3. Buy an IAT sensor with pigtail and mount it either in your intake manifold (plastic GM IAT mounts easily into the EVAP port on a truck manifold with a 1/2" drill bit and a rubber mallet) or in the charge pipe between the intercooler and throttle body (nowhere to mount it on a car intake, so get a weld on bung too). Cut 2 wires out of MAF connector and splice them to new pigtail.
4. Start fixing DTCs for things no longer in use.
5. If it's still not fixed, ditch the Innovate wideband in favor of an AEM, 14point7, etc.
1. Put a 6 Kpa hysteresis back into the PE.
2. Look up the correct numbers for your MAP sensor and put them into the tune.
3. Buy an IAT sensor with pigtail and mount it either in your intake manifold (plastic GM IAT mounts easily into the EVAP port on a truck manifold with a 1/2" drill bit and a rubber mallet) or in the charge pipe between the intercooler and throttle body (nowhere to mount it on a car intake, so get a weld on bung too). Cut 2 wires out of MAF connector and splice them to new pigtail.
4. Start fixing DTCs for things no longer in use.
5. If it's still not fixed, ditch the Innovate wideband in favor of an AEM, 14point7, etc.
This evening I'll check through my dtcs and see what's up there, get rid of all the stuff I removed from the harness etc. And once all that is complete if it's still acting up I'll definitely look into getting a nicer wideband. I thought mine was a nice one, it got decent reviews at the time and I figured $200 it better be nice Hahaha. Nickelback... love that reference xD. and the tune you were looking at was the first one I posted? Or one further down?
if you want to test out the iat thing, you could always either jumper the two wires from the maf connector to the corresponding pins on the maf (or disconnect the maf wires at the pcm). that way you would be using the stock iat rather than introducing another variable into the equation.
i think this is worth doing and might solve alot of your issues...there are alot of air temp related tables that it would affect having it unplugged...i could be wrong but its easy to test out.
i think this is worth doing and might solve alot of your issues...there are alot of air temp related tables that it would affect having it unplugged...i could be wrong but its easy to test out.