enjoy the build 
The Electric Turbo Camaro Project
Agree power is power, that was my point. A higher voltage requires less current to hit the same power rating. Switching IC and FET/IGBTs have come way down in price and size. And they're rated for more current than you're going to run which is the issue with size and heat anyways, current not voltage. I just think you're limiting your ability with low voltage. Sure at a high enough current, 2V will work, but it's much more difficult.
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Teching In
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As a point of interest, my first unit, that I sent back because it was too big, was 96V and 200A, showing the reciprocal relationship you're talking about. That was a much more powerful unit taking 5 batteries compared to the 2 I will be using on my current one. However that was impractical and I simply could not install it (pictures in the first couple mins of my video). This one is small enough to work very well in my engine bay and the boost, while lower, is still plenty on a stock motor with stock fuel system.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Florida
I think if I tried something like this I would get a second head unit then tie the two shafts together as one. You can then try piping the exhaust from the engine that’s a ton of wasted energy anyway into one of the head units to spin it then the other head unit could be used to compress the intake air and you would save the weight of your two extra batteries and the copper needed to move 300amps efficiently.
I’d call it exhaustocharging.
I’d call it exhaustocharging.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Central Ohio
Good work, hope it comes to fruition for you. It looks like you will be pulling hot air from the engine bay right by the manifold, any thoughts on a cold air setup to make the most of your work?
Coming from limited experience in aircraft starters, IMO you are highly over anticipating how many boost pulls you will do before your line voltage is in the dirt. That and cooling the motor itself is going to be a challenge.
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 60
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From: Viera, Florida
You're doing great work even if this board is half full of haters.
E-boost turbo's are a growing thing and the technology works. Just look at Garrett and BorgWarner. Electric turbo's have been used in F1 racing for years.
Brest of luck with it and don't give up!
Tim
E-boost turbo's are a growing thing and the technology works. Just look at Garrett and BorgWarner. Electric turbo's have been used in F1 racing for years.
Brest of luck with it and don't give up!
Tim
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Teching In
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Thanks Tim. Means a lot to get positive feedback. I think that means the technology is finally making ground. People can't say it's BS anymore and get away with it lol.
Shownomercy: I may be. I have 2 x 5000 mAh packs so 10Ah x 3600 = 36000As. With 300A draw you'd get theoretical 120s but I know that's not reality and not at a constant voltage so maybe I get 30 seconds of "good" use out of them? If you're just kickin it around the streets you probably will use short enough bursts to enjoy it enough before it dies. If not, I have 3 more batteries I can hook in parallel since my previous supercharger was a 96V model and I bought enough batteries for that one.
Matts: Somebody else pointed that out too and it's a good point that I will have to look into. Maybe I can put a shield there or maybe I can re-think my layout entirely to avoid that area. I'll have to actually rip my airbox out and do a fit check to know for sure.
Trendsetter: Hmm? Isn't that a turbocharger?
Shownomercy: I may be. I have 2 x 5000 mAh packs so 10Ah x 3600 = 36000As. With 300A draw you'd get theoretical 120s but I know that's not reality and not at a constant voltage so maybe I get 30 seconds of "good" use out of them? If you're just kickin it around the streets you probably will use short enough bursts to enjoy it enough before it dies. If not, I have 3 more batteries I can hook in parallel since my previous supercharger was a 96V model and I bought enough batteries for that one.
Matts: Somebody else pointed that out too and it's a good point that I will have to look into. Maybe I can put a shield there or maybe I can re-think my layout entirely to avoid that area. I'll have to actually rip my airbox out and do a fit check to know for sure.
Trendsetter: Hmm? Isn't that a turbocharger?
TECH Regular
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Electric turbos are making headway in the form of F1 hybrid turbos which are utterly complicated and as I recall function more for as the replacement for the old school waste gate. They add resistance to slow down the turbine to control boost and pre-spool it to some degree. But I think it was more or less about having perfect electronic control over the speed of the turbine shaft, its like dome control nirvana. If you are going to pump electric power into something with a gas engine already in it, its much better to put it through a hybrid assist motor to the gas engine. your just getting in the way of the turbos efficiency with anything short of NASA and F1 levels of fuckery.
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Teching In
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There's a lot of noise in people's understanding of how boost works. The technology that gets you there is largely irrelevant. What matters at the end of the day is the number of watts it takes to take a parcel of air and make it occupy a smaller space. The physics for this are well defined and have been for hundreds of years. If it takes 7 kW to compress a flow to 1.4 bar for example, that's what it takes. Doesn't matter if you use a roots blower to do it or if you take a plastic bag of air and jump on it. You still need to get 7kW from somewhere. An electric motor is no different in terms of the physics than a belt or a gas driven turbine. Energy in - Energy out.
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What is your primary goal? To try this and prove that this works or to boost your car and have more performance? If it's the first one then yeah, it will work in an extremely limited capacity IMO. If it's the second one then it's going to be a near failure by the measure of most gearheads. No matter what I'm interested in the results. Thanks for sharing.
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From: Florida
thats not true at all. all blowers and compressors have an efficiency rating that is dictated by a number of things. do you really think a roots blower is as efficient as a screw or centri? plus the mechanical pieces, bearings, drag on the seals, etc.
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Teching In
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Both actually. But I'm not sure how you would define "near failure" for forced induction. I've yet to prove it but the numbers so far indicate that I should be able to add 100+ ft-lbs at least so 520-550 ft-lbs at the crank is definitely realistic. I agree that this is tame as far as power numbers go but for the money, I'm still getting a boosted car with performance on par with comparably sized blowers with big pulleys or what have you. The ZL1 of my model year was around 550 IIRC so I should be getting pretty close to that. If I replace my batteries with 7S LiPo and get a controller that can handle 400A, both of which are readily available, I should be deep into the 500s. Honestly speaking however, with no intercooler, I'm quite happy with 5ish PSI of boost and the rest I can get from spray.
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Teching In
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I didn't say it but the 7kW I mentioned as an arbitrary example, was the compressor work, which IS what it is. Efficiency is the total energy needed on top of that so if it takes 7kW you may still need to feed in 10. Regardless, my turbo can hit almost 80% efficiency and the motor is >90% so we're talking 70'ish % efficiency so if you do the math, 7kW/0.7 is still 10 and still well within the capabilities of everything I have mechanically and electrically. In short, yes different compressors consume different amounts of energy for the same boost output BUT they all need to do the same work on the air. That part is constant and the main driver for design considerations.
