The Electric Turbo Camaro Project
Normally I would have posted progress weeks ago but this whole Covid 19 thing has hampered my schedule. There's fabrication I need to have done outside that is impossible at the moment. I'm working with my mechanics to expedite as much as possible. In the meantime, I'm working mostly on software, which is a bit boring to report on, unless you're interested in that sort of thing. With any luck, I'll be able to post an update before May is out, as I don't think we'll be in lockdown that long... at least I hope we aren't.
On second thought.. I do have a small update. I got rid of the batteries you see in my video and replaced them with 2 x 7S Lipos so my voltage has just jumped from 22.2 to 25.9 nominal. This was prudent to take full advantage of the available headroom my controller has to offer (it suffers damage at 31V and when fully charged a 7S LiPo puts out 29.4V). So in other words, for no penalty, I have an extra 15% or so available power for the blower, which is always a good thing.
On second thought.. I do have a small update. I got rid of the batteries you see in my video and replaced them with 2 x 7S Lipos so my voltage has just jumped from 22.2 to 25.9 nominal. This was prudent to take full advantage of the available headroom my controller has to offer (it suffers damage at 31V and when fully charged a 7S LiPo puts out 29.4V). So in other words, for no penalty, I have an extra 15% or so available power for the blower, which is always a good thing.
Im going to go ahead and assume you've researched the storage procedures and possible dangers of lipos.
I know all about them. They scare the **** out of me. If I possibly could, I'd be using Ni-Cd or Lead Acid. Unfortunately this would be highly impractical. I'll just have to be careful I don't set the neighbourhood on fire.
As long as you're aware lol. Ive seen people burn their houses down because of an RC car.
OK guys despite the long wait, I have my mechanical install underway as we speak. In the meantime for those so inclined, I present episode 2 of my series, focused on the electronic controller I built to run the boost. So while you bide your time a bit longer, hope you enjoy:
Be interesting how this turns out-been eyeing my neighbors elect. leaf blower, just have to ck the boost, lol
Just kidding, cool to see some outside the box stuff-I thought they used some Prochargers to deice planes,
app they spray the deicer, not sure if they use some type of elect motor to spin them, or some other source.
I would think the biggest obs. to overcome is the resistance the air going into the engine would meet, the elect.
motor would be fighting that, but with enough torque, could build some boost. Starter motors have a ton of torque,
but as I remember, unless they have some kind of resistance, they will just spin out of control? Moved more than one stick car by spinning the starter with it in gear, lol.
Good luck with the project.
Just kidding, cool to see some outside the box stuff-I thought they used some Prochargers to deice planes,
app they spray the deicer, not sure if they use some type of elect motor to spin them, or some other source.
I would think the biggest obs. to overcome is the resistance the air going into the engine would meet, the elect.
motor would be fighting that, but with enough torque, could build some boost. Starter motors have a ton of torque,
but as I remember, unless they have some kind of resistance, they will just spin out of control? Moved more than one stick car by spinning the starter with it in gear, lol.
Good luck with the project.
https://www.autoblog.com/2020/10/02/...-ls-sbc-mount/
This is the closest thing I've seen on a swap style. I can't find this on their actual page, just this press release. These guys have a m3 with a full electric conversion that is a race car.
https://www.autoblog.com/2020/10/02/...-ls-sbc-mount/
https://www.autoblog.com/2020/10/02/...-ls-sbc-mount/
When you make your supercharger out of aircraft materials and dip the whole thing in chrome, yeah it'll cost a down payment on a house. What I'm doing is mechanically sound but it's made from repurposed equipment and looks like ***. Everything I didn't buy I'm doing myself so there's no labour or mark-up to speak of. The installation will cost money but when all's said and done it'll be far less than 10k. Probably just under half of that. If you are already a mechanic or have access to your own fabrication you could literally do this for less than 3k.
Id look at L-ION batteries. You can get them relatively cheaply used out of hoverboards on ebay with onboard BMS. This has been done and it works to some degree. Company out of Australia manufactures them. Cletus McFarlin bought one.... then 2 ($2500 each) and installed them on a 2 liter cobalt I believe? Defiantly made a little power, and fell off at RPM. I don't see them feeding any where close to V8 cubic inches with the size turbo you are showing. What compressor size are you using?
It's similar to a T76 Garrett. If you have a link to these batteries I'll check them out. However my batteries (the 2 of them together) can supply the 300 amps I need. At 25V that's 7.5kW, which is about 3/4 of the motor's power handling capacity.
Be interesting how this turns out-been eyeing my neighbors elect. leaf blower, just have to ck the boost, lol
Just kidding, cool to see some outside the box stuff-I thought they used some Prochargers to deice planes,
app they spray the deicer, not sure if they use some type of elect motor to spin them, or some other source.
I would think the biggest obs. to overcome is the resistance the air going into the engine would meet, the elect.
motor would be fighting that, but with enough torque, could build some boost. Starter motors have a ton of torque,
but as I remember, unless they have some kind of resistance, they will just spin out of control? Moved more than one stick car by spinning the starter with it in gear, lol.
Good luck with the project.
Just kidding, cool to see some outside the box stuff-I thought they used some Prochargers to deice planes,
app they spray the deicer, not sure if they use some type of elect motor to spin them, or some other source.
I would think the biggest obs. to overcome is the resistance the air going into the engine would meet, the elect.
motor would be fighting that, but with enough torque, could build some boost. Starter motors have a ton of torque,
but as I remember, unless they have some kind of resistance, they will just spin out of control? Moved more than one stick car by spinning the starter with it in gear, lol.
Good luck with the project.
That's true but he does have a point. Usually starter and winch motors and the like have a ton of field windings in them so if you are up to the task of re-winding and re-gearing them they make excellent motors for a supercharger. That's what my supplier did.
I feel an electric motor bolted to the crank would do more for ya than an electric air pump... and charge the batteries when cruising on gas.

Best of luck!
Bat. link
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
Last edited by Forcefed86; Oct 27, 2020 at 02:05 PM.
The voltage doesn't really matter if the motor is wound for it - it would just have a lower internal resistance so that it can get the amps it needs to make power. The BLDC controller won't take more than 30 without blowing up and the batteries fully charged have an open voltage of 29 ish so I'm pretty much maxed out on voltage as it is. The C rating is advertised as more than double of what I'm actually drawing from it too so I gave myself plenty of headroom. Now that's not to say I won't start a massive fire that will melt my car and me in it but after you've taken all reasonable precautions there comes a point where you just have to try it and cross your fingers that the product isn't defective. If I had a choice believe me I'd be much happier working with Ni-Cd or lead acid.
What type of wire were you using for the signal stuff in that case? I'm using 2-conductor shielded Tefzel but I don't know if that would be good enough. My power wires are just rubber insulated speaker wire in a 2 or 4 AWG.. I forget.











