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Lm7 turbo daily driver

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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 12:44 AM
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Default Lm7 turbo daily driver

I’m looking to build a DD turbo lm7. Looking to be around the 600 hp range. Have a list and wondering what I’m missing, need to upgrade, or don’t need. Guessing around 10-15 psi for my goal. Wondering pistons, connecting rods, values with my cam, and reason for meth? Want it reliable and get the weak links.

Gap rings for boost

PAC 1218

Trunnion valve upgrade

Cam .585 lift .050 228/230 lope 112

Cast 7875

44mm wg

50mm bov

Deka 80

ARP head studs, main studs

Stronger rods

Lq9 head gasket
(Have to get stronger fuel pump, Tranny, and good tune)
Thanks
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 11:32 AM
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Find a higher mileage good running Gen IV 5.3, add head studs and leave it alone, put in a reputable turbo cam (LJMS, Tick, BTR) with matching springs and push rods, maybe a new oil pump.
Trunion upgrade is a good idea but not mandatory.
600 hp on a Gen IV 5.3 is a breeze on pump gas only and will live forever with a good tune.
I'm making 700whp with the same turbo on a SBE LS1 with the smaller Gen III rods for going on five years now pump gas only, a good tune is key, look up Pat G.
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 12:10 PM
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Change valve springs and let it eat.
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by The ******
Find a higher mileage good running Gen IV 5.3, add head studs and leave it alone, put in a reputable turbo cam (LJMS, Tick, BTR) with matching springs and push rods, maybe a new oil pump.
Trunion upgrade is a good idea but not mandatory.
600 hp on a Gen IV 5.3 is a breeze on pump gas only and will live forever with a good tune.
I'm making 700whp with the same turbo on a SBE LS1 with the smaller Gen III rods for going on five years now pump gas only, a good tune is key, look up Pat G.
i have a lm7 already taken apart so was just going to put all new parts in. Should I just keep everything stock in bottom end and gap the rings a bit?
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Dylan72
i have a lm7 already taken apart so was just going to put all new parts in. Should I just keep everything stock in bottom end and gap the rings a bit?

You should use a stock bottom end including ring gaps. You put forged stuff in there and then its all on the machinist to make sure its matched better than the stock stuff was. There just is no practical reason to change anything in the bottom end for anything 600-700hp. A factory lm7 from a junk yard will make 600hp with a turbo on all stock internals with the exception of maybe changing the valve springs. I ran mine totally stock at 10psi on 91 octane with no ping.
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 06:48 PM
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Did you mean LS9 gaskets? I've never heard of anyone use LQ9 gaskets for boost (unless they had an LQ9 and decided to run stock gaskets).

If your choice of cam is driven mainly by price rather than getting a dedicated turbo cam, you'd be better off with the SummitRacing SUM-8715 Ghost Cam.
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 09:41 PM
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I've ran stock engine/fully unopened/stock HG. Only thing I change is Valve springs and cam. Valve springs you would want due to valve float, Cam is just for a better matched setup(turbo cam)
600whp daily.


I dont think its worth the trouble opening up the engine just for 600. Unless you want to for fun
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Dylan72
i have a lm7 already taken apart so was just going to put all new parts in. Should I just keep everything stock in bottom end and gap the rings a bit?
Clean it up, check and gap rings if needed and slap it back together but at 600hp you'll be around 10 lbs. and stock gaps will be fine.
I'd splurge on a good turbo cam and springs though, it'll make the number easier with less boost required.
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 07:05 AM
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As already stated, if it's already apart you might as well gap the rings
for a daily driver my preference would be a smaller cam ( something in the 21x dur) allowing a lower stall or stock converter and better fuel economy. Depending on vehicle weight and gearing of course.
have you considered using decapped injectors ? Eric Derr the guy to talk with. Save some money for other stuff
I think you asked about water/meth injection - I'm a big fan for both short term benefits
- charge cooling , maybe don't need the best intercooler
- increased octane from the meth
- anti detonation properties of the water
and the long term benefits
- steam cleaning of the combustion chambers , no carbon to create hot spots and pre-ignition
if nothing else it's good insurance and could save you the trouble of swapping in another engine
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by GMCGreg
As already stated, if it's already apart you might as well gap the rings
for a daily driver my preference would be a smaller cam ( something in the 21x dur) allowing a lower stall or stock converter and better fuel economy. Depending on vehicle weight and gearing of course.
have you considered using decapped injectors ? Eric Derr the guy to talk with. Save some money for other stuff
I think you asked about water/meth injection - I'm a big fan for both short term benefits
- charge cooling , maybe don't need the best intercooler
- increased octane from the meth
- anti detonation properties of the water
and the long term benefits
- steam cleaning of the combustion chambers , no carbon to create hot spots and pre-ignition
if nothing else it's good insurance and could save you the trouble of swapping in another engine
Tell us more about the water/meth injection, usually guys do one or the other.
Do spray water only or meth only because I didn't think you could do both?
I know very little about eithe rbut have been considering it for my boosted car lately.
Thanks.
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 03:59 PM
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No expert here, just read a lot on here and in some older books on turbocharging. I'm using a basic snow stage one kit , currently using the big nozzle 625ml/min I think. The fact that I haven't blown my **** up is probably proof that it works !!! -first time hp tuners here. Anyone who's done even a few head gasket repairs on higher mileage engines has seen how a bit of coolant in the combustion chamber can completely clean all deposits away . I've never been able to get more than 4 passes in at time ,no need to add to the reservoir for that. I use the blue washer fluid , mixed with methyl hydrate (used for truck air dryers - about 7$ Can/gal) to get close to 50/50.
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 07:07 PM
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The El cheapo windshield washer fluid that is blue without additives is about 30% meth to 70% water....and $3 a gallon. Add a bottle of HEET and you end up closer to 50/50. Works great and is easy to do.
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 09:17 AM
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-20* is approx 30% methanol (see sds for details on each product). If you can find -30* it is closer to 50% for $5
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by GMCGreg
As already stated, if it's already apart you might as well gap the rings
for a daily driver my preference would be a smaller cam ( something in the 21x dur) allowing a lower stall or stock converter and better fuel economy. Depending on vehicle weight and gearing of course.
have you considered using decapped injectors ? Eric Derr the guy to talk with. Save some money for other stuff
I think you asked about water/meth injection - I'm a big fan for both short term benefits
- charge cooling , maybe don't need the best intercooler
- increased octane from the meth
- anti detonation properties of the water
and the long term benefits
- steam cleaning of the combustion chambers , no carbon to create hot spots and pre-ignition
if nothing else it's good insurance and could save you the trouble of swapping in another engine
I’ll definitely look into adding meth injection. Would it be any benefit to change main bearing as well?
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2020 | 02:55 PM
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I used to overhaul ,replace everything - until I was injured and watched sloppy mechanics . If you know any history on the engine , heard it run? Know previous owner? Service records ect... my new opinion on the subject would be to leave it alone. Cam , valve springs and valve seals while doing the springs. You said it's apart already so if no visible problems clean it up (especially ring grooves) and reassemble. If the pan isn't off you can put the drain in the timing cover while it's off for the cam change - if that suits your application.
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Dylan72
I’ll definitely look into adding meth injection. Would it be any benefit to change main bearing as well?
If you want to bump the octain run more meth, if you want to drop air temp run water. If you want both then run 50/50.
I would say the best way of running 50/50 is finding a local race gas shop in your area that sells straight methanol in barrels. Then mix desired ratio %.

The way I decided on 50/50 is I Data log my IAT to see how much it climb at boost. I wanted to drop it since temp was high so I run 50/50.
Keep in mind you need to calculate your nozzle size, decide if you want to run pre-turbo or post only.
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dylan72
I’ll definitely look into adding meth injection. Would it be any benefit to change main bearing as well?
I wouldn't mess with the bearing clearance unless you're doing a HV/HP pump which for this build is not necessary.
Buy a new stock pump, shim the spring with a washer or two to boost pressure and port the passage ways inside.
Plenty of guys going crazy fast on big power doing just that, plus its cheap insurance.
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