correct. I does go to map sensor. So I can do it for boost not rpm. Is there a way to convert the map voltage to boost pressure ? I know trial and error works with it to. I gotta find a way to datalog stuff. I have the torque app and think I can datalog sensor through there.

 

Don't over complicate it. It's super simplistic design and the start / full on point isn't super critical, esp. in your application. Just play with it a little. Personally Id set it around 8lbs and full on by 15 or what ever your max boost is. I don't even use progressive on my car thats only spraying 7gph.

 

thanks man. I’m going to do just that, play with controller a bit. I’m not depending on it so it doesn’t seem like a perfection scenario.

 

No problem. That's a very nice kit for what your doing with it! lol. Could do the same with $120 worth of parts. It's Like buying a Porsche and never taking it out of 1st gear. It's designed to shoot a lot of volume and to be compatible w/ straight meth. If you can run 15lbs now without detonation... Should be able to push 25lbs with 2 15gph nozzles on full blast and 100% meth. Assuming your engine would take it... If it's still new, you might sell it and put on a baby kit. Esp. if you plan on sticking with the gen3 motor(s).

I run an $85 pump, $5 nozzle, and $20 worth of pushlock fittings and hose. Triggered with a boost switch. Tap your windshield washer reservoir for a tank.Or buy a cheap poly tank. Just a thought! Good luck.

 

No that wouldn’t be any fun lol... car made 668 on 15 with just 93. If I build a 6.0 block and put my cam and heads onto that with same turbo kit, I should be able turn boost up with meth later and have super fun with car.

wanna get used to this power first though. The turbos come on late and all at once and I’m not tuner so I’m just stuck with where it’s at and add alittle washer fluid. When I do the 6.0 block it’ll move power band to left and make more peak with extra boost. I’ll consider this setup my training wheels lol.

my gears are long so spinning through second gear and holding it to get up to speed I’m pretty loose in the back. If shift into third early without the speed then you feel the lag pretty good. I gotta figure out traction in second to get car going so shifting third the rpm is in a good spot. This first time with a car above 400rwhp even so it’s quite a feeing.

 

Baby steps are always good! Sounds like a plan. May talk to your tuner and tell him how much more quickly it build boost before the tune. See what he says. You may also have a hot-side or WG leak some where. I'd put your hands in front of the WG dump tubes and have someone rev the engine a bit. If a bunch of exhaust whooshes out that's why its lazy.

FWIW,. I ran one of Julio's alky control kits on my grand national. I was able to run 25lbs on pump 91.

 

ive thought about that. The first pull was 556 on the 10lbs without a controller. I can ask for that chart and see if the boost is to the left more. Without controller I have boost by 4200ish on old basemap. So same WG setup. At least then I’ll know it prob the manual controller messing with WGs. Otherwise maybe the timing is a lot diff on his tune compared to the other tuners basemap before. He did say the basemap was pretty much NA setup.

 

so the first blue chart was basemap and super rich but can see boost peak on same hotside WG setup 10psi spring only.

2nd red lines is same extra as first but no boost reference on regulator so it leaned out and let off pedal. However boost pretty much all there same timing as first. Keep in mind the chart ends at 5200 compared to first ending at 6500 or whatever.

last is finished tune from new tuner.

 

So I just talked to tuner.. he said he took timing out of low end to keep rods alive that the 600 power level. The lower end had NA timing before and he didn’t want all the power to low for the tq on those rods.

he said he did another gen3 5.3 that drifts and been running for over a year being beat on drift courses at 750rwhp. Think he like leaving the power up top.

for this power level I’m better off just build the 6.0 Or 5.3 block during summer time anyways. Prob cost me 3-3500 with a summit assembly. Now I know turbos can do much more lower end and with rods shouldn’t be a scare of using timing down low. 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

Eh, I don't agree with him. Look at that curve! lol.

You drop timing at PK TQ to be gentle on the rods. Dropping it before that at low boost just makes it lazy. You want an "NA tune" in it up to 5lbs or so to get the turbos spooling. CYL pressure spikes are what kill the rods and ring lands. Looking at your power curve, you don't hit pk boost/TQ till almost 5700?. That's nuts for a twin turbo V8. Tune defiantly needs attention *IF* there aren't any leaks and the slow spool is all in the tune. YOu may find leaks and hit max boost at 4100 as it sits. Then his tune is likely fine.

If your boost peaked at 3k and you were making 600ftlb there, i'd agree with his tuning method. However, your dyno sheet looks more like a big turbo 4 banger would. No reason for it to.

 

there’s 100% no hot side leaks. I’ve checked 100x before tune and had them re welded 2 weeks ago to get rid of vband on the manifold ends for that reason. Pipes less than 1’ after manifold. WG don’t leak through either. Thought had that issue last week too when I was feeling stumbling. So it’s all in the tune.

he told me he could’ve moved the boost to the left today. Just didn’t cause gen3 rods. God this tuner **** sucks. Spoke to 4 people.
1 won’t put his name on custom swaps,
1 says he only wants run 8psi and won’t go lower than 15* timing ever and won’t go past 450 on gen3,
this one doesn’t like low rpm timing but he’s nice guy and I like him,
last one is best rated tuner around and gave me the basemap and told me to buy the meth kit and doesn’t care about rods cause it’s all in the tune. He’s just busy lol.

idk man, every person who tuners has their own way about this stuff. If I were to go back to the really good guy now he may not want to touch the car. He doesn’t like getting hands into other people’s messes. Don’t blame him I guess.

 

Always easier to talk $hit and criticize folk. I don’t mean to. It’s really hard being a tuner and owning a shop. Performance stuff just plain breaks. Simple as that! Then throw in a JY motor and a turbo and things can get ugly quick. A gen 3 with the exact same setup and tune on 15lbs may toss a rod while another can run 25lbs and be fine. So liability can def. bite those guys in the ***. And of course every customer wants to blame the tuner if their engine explodes. From the time it gets on their dyno and 10 years down the road. So I don’t mean to talk trash on your tuner. He may be a badass and read you like someone that’s going to do rolling 150mph burnouts in parking lots and put the “ricer tune” in it… lol.

I’d just be totally honest with the customer and state that I’d do my best. If a motor lets loose on my dyno or after, I’m not liable. I’d prob lose a **** ton of business or have none. But it’s damn hard to stand behind a JY turbo motor! I’ve been 8’s and run 26lbs on a gen3 5.3. I’ve also blown up a few and bent a rod or 2 in my day. It’s a crap shoot and a $350-500 short block in the end. IMO if you keep the RPM UP and don’t push over 600FT lb around PK TQ or below… you’re usually “good” for 700-800ish whp. Not that that’s your goal… But I feel those guys are being overly conservative… Likely due to liabilities.

May send an email to the “Squirrel tuned” guy. I believe he sells factory tunes and will review and edit your tune for $150. He knows how to tune SBE engines for performance.

Hell, if it’s fun now, leave it… Def. conservative!

 

no man your not criticizing anything for me lol. I’m just torn because having all that power from 4500-5500 just seems more dangerous and I don’t get any power band. I said this leaving the dyno to my buddy.

my friend has a 500hp single 78/76 5.3 in same exact car as me. Thing is full boost at 3700ish and pulls like a train. He would destroy me right now. He would put 4 lengths on me from a 60 roll before I get any traction and spool going to 3rd gear.

so at the end of day, it’s not really about the tuner. It’s about my car getting its best performance. Will it get the best performance with 400whp at 4500 rpms and only have 5500-6500 rpms to enjoy the power band of 600hp. (Now)

The basemap from the other tuner was not a tune at all and had full power by 4200rpms. I would assume that would be the best feeling car performance wise. He just likes his meth and judging from comments on here, meth is just that good to have anyways.

my block is brand new with resized rods for arp bolts and bored .030 over, rings gapped etc. At end of day it’s still basically at the same restriction as a JY motor I guess with the gen3 rods. So if it bends a rod I’m ok with it. It’s my choice to push it or not to. If it detonates and blows up cause super lean then that’s not on the motor but I’m not the type to call whining, I would just not return if I really thought it was his fault.

i had no issue going to 600 from the 668 is made because I want it to last the season while I build a block. Cars not a drag car. I love doing highway runs and driving it everyday all over the place. Hell even with built block I would prob be content with the 670 on the mustang dyno it made lol. That’s a lot of power on the road!

idk, it’s more frustrating because I’m not a tuner but I do know cars and how they work. It just seems the tuners have such diff experiences on same style setups. I have another tuner local who won’t run less than 15* timing ever and only 450hp on gen3 period. They just all different and it’s crazy hard to figure out what’s best and who to chose. I always hear comments in the Nissan world that anyone who knows how to tune can tune any car. It’s clearly not the case lol.

 

The guy that's busy (the best guy) is the one that knows what up. Tell him you f'd up and used a guy that's too conservative. See what he says. Yes, the gen 3 rods are a weak point. Likely the guy that knows what up, didn't tell you to buy rod bolts either. Maybe he suggested rods, that come with good bolts to go with your forged pistons. Hopefully you can get it sorted out or... get into tuning so you know what's up.

 

yeah think I’m going call him today and re schedule it. Also he didn’t tell me to get the rod bolts lol. If I asked him he would’ve said get a 6.0 first and then build block if wanted bunch power.

 

Also just to say it, I’m not in any way mad at the tuner. He’s really cool guy. They all just have their own preferences for comfort. That doesn’t really bother me or affect hanging with the guy or even future tunes if I ever get a drift car lol.

 

Man, I just realized that the graphs where the turbos spooled earlier were both on a dynojet, and the ones where they spool way later were on a Mustang Dyno.
The Mustang dyno should have spooled them much sooner than the dynojet. My peak torque is 2000 RPM higher on a dynojet because it can't load the turbos enough.

You really should try to get some mid-range torque added in there. Its going to be extremely hard to drive with the power climbing the way it does.
Even with more torque, a gradual curve is more likely to maintain traction than one that shocks them.

 

I just got in touch with other tuner. Dropping car off Monday. So it’ll be using M1 with the 93 when get it back but his basemap already had the spool before or at 4K which is much more usable. Sucks to spend another $700 but this is where it counts the most so is what it is.

 

Be sure to post up the new graphs and results. It's always interesting to see the differences a good tuner can make.

 

So, how'd it go??