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Ok so finally got the car tuned tonight. 668rwhp on 15psi. Pump 93. Mustang dyno
5.3 lm7 bored .030 over
btr head gear
stage 2 turbo cam btr
gen3 rods with ARP bolts
80lb deka
aeromotive fpr with 525 pump
nissan 5spd trans
3.37 350z diff
twin cxracing gt35s with dual 40mm WG
I actually turned the boost down to 12psi and left it at 600rwhp even. With gen3 rods I’d rather take the less power and hope to get some more time from it. Car is vicious. All power is at once sadly but that’s my fault cause turbos are decent size. Would prob work great on 6.0 block I’ll be building this summer.
with the long gears the 3rd gear pull on dyno is doing 140mph. Gets there quick!
93. Didn’t use my meth kit at all. It made plenty of power for me. I can build a block later for a 6.0 or open up the 5.3 alittle more and prob keep these turbos.
Congrats on getting it tuned and some numbers. Quick pull in 3rd!
thanks! In person the pulls sounded so intense. Car has dual 3.5” exhaust. I thought clutch was slipping or something during the 3rd gear pulls. It’s super fast through it. He told me make sure careful driving it cause the power comes on and finishes the gear so quick. Recipe for a crash lol. I think it was 1000rpm span the car does 300whp more.
Which GT35's are they? That does seem to be a bit lazy of a curve. What heads? Compression?
Alot of the instant power can be tuned out. And I'd bet alot could be done to increase spool time as well. I'd ask your tuner for copies of his timing maps. Should have NA like timing in it to 5psi or so to help get the turbos going. Then taper off drastically around pk TQ to limit the power surge and go easy on teh rods... then ramp back up past PK TQ for added power.
I know your not a tuner and can't really alter these things yourself. But a good tuner should have done this for you. (maybe he has). But seems odd its so "lazy" building boost.
Other thing that works great at calming down power is the water meth. Right where boost kicks in hard flood it with water meth a bit and it will bog down that peaky area where it jumps 300hp in 1000rpm. I'd def turn that on with pump gas anyway. Helps keep the cyl and piston tops cool.
Glad to see you got it going! Guessing im around 8.8:1 with 241 heads and ls9 gaskets on my 5.3 with gt35's. And I come into boost more quickly. (.63AR T3's) Also an auto so not a super great comparison. I don't understand why its not at full boost before 4k. May look for exhaust or WG leaks.
Which GT35's are they? That does seem to be a bit lazy of a curve. What heads? Compression?
Alot of the instant power can be tuned out. And I'd bet alot could be done to increase spool time as well. I'd ask your tuner for copies of his timing maps. Should have NA like timing in it to 5psi or so to help get the turbos going. Then taper off drastically around pk TQ to limit the power surge and go easy on teh rods... then ramp back up past PK TQ for added power.
I know your not a tuner and can't really alter these things yourself. But a good tuner should have done this for you. (maybe he has). But seems odd its so "lazy" building boost.
Other thing that works great at calming down power is the water meth. Right where boost kicks in hard flood it with water meth a bit and it will bog down that peaky area where it jumps 300hp in 1000rpm. I'd def turn that on with pump gas anyway. Helps keep the cyl and piston tops cool.
Glad to see you got it going! Guessing im around 8.8:1 with 241 heads and ls9 gaskets on my 5.3 with gt35's. And I come into boost more quickly. Also an auto so not a super great comparison. I don't understand why its not at full boost before 4k. May look for exhaust or WG leaks.
actually just found those again on eBay now. It used to have a dif picture that didn’t match turbos. However now that link is updated and it’s exact turbos in pic. Same exact ad too.
706 heads with ls9 gaskets. I actually compression tested motor last week, was 165-170 in all 8. Not sure what my compression would be with those heads and the gasket etc.
whats weird about the boost, I had 10psi by 3800 when first ran the car without tune Recirculating dumps and boost creep. Then on same basemap after exhaust and uncirculating the dump tubes it moved boost to 10psi by 4300ish and negative creep(15lb springs giving me 10-11psi boost).
however the tuner this time said the basemap had a complete NA basemap on there and just started from scratch completely, wasn’t safe to run it that way and was suprised I had not blown it with the dyno and pulls I did without tune.
as for the meth, it’s installed and paid for ($950 Alkycontrol) but I’d prefer not to use it if didn’t need be reliant on it.
Which GT35's are they? That does seem to be a bit lazy of a curve. What heads? Compression?
Alot of the instant power can be tuned out. And I'd bet alot could be done to increase spool time as well. I'd ask your tuner for copies of his timing maps. Should have NA like timing in it to 5psi or so to help get the turbos going. Then taper off drastically around pk TQ to limit the power surge and go easy on teh rods... then ramp back up past PK TQ for added power.
I know your not a tuner and can't really alter these things yourself. But a good tuner should have done this for you. (maybe he has). But seems odd its so "lazy" building boost.
Other thing that works great at calming down power is the water meth. Right where boost kicks in hard flood it with water meth a bit and it will bog down that peaky area where it jumps 300hp in 1000rpm. I'd def turn that on with pump gas anyway. Helps keep the cyl and piston tops cool.
Glad to see you got it going! Guessing im around 8.8:1 with 241 heads and ls9 gaskets on my 5.3 with gt35's. And I come into boost more quickly. (.63AR T3's) Also an auto so not a super great comparison. I don't understand why its not at full boost before 4k. May look for exhaust or WG leaks.
thinking about it, I did change the gears. It had 4.08s when I had boost by 3800rpms. Now I have 3.37s , think this plays a roll in the boost being held off? The 4.08s were useless. Spun everything. Car weighs about 3200lbs
I'd agree, Def use the meth if its there. Since you don't need the detonation protection, standard washer fluid goes a long way and is dirt cheap. Pulls a lot of heat out of the cyl, always a good thing! I don't need it on my race car either as it's intercooled with E85. But I still use it. Plugs read cooler at like power levels. No noticeable gains or losses in back to back runs with it on or off. I'd have your water meth kick on at 5k and full in by 5500. If you use 10-14gph of washer fluid it will dumb down that power spike a bit too. Probably make the car more manageable.
I run 7gph of washer fluid triggered to come on at 20psi in my race car. I dont even notice that amount come on.
Im my street car I use 25gph worth of 50/50 in non intercooled twin gt35 setup on e60ish. I have it come on hard where boost kicks and taper off by redline. Almost like traction control. makes is much less violent.
Something's up with that slow boost curve. Id bet the tuner is gun shy timing wise and low boost/rpm. I'd like to see the maps. But hey, prob wont' hurt it much with all you power coming on after 5k. Could be a good thing.
More load will make boost come on more quickly. So your gear change should have improved spool times a tad. I'd suspect the tune.
Would I need to adjust tune if I used the washer fluid and not the m1? I can turn it on low and data log the AIT sensor. What temps should I aim for at that 5k + rpm range?
You have it backwards. You would have to retune if using M1, you should have to if running washer fluid as long as you dont spray a ton of it. Again, if you're already tuned with out it, then you don't really care about anything when spraying a little washer fluid to cool things.
You have it backwards. You would have to retune if using M1, you should have to if running washer fluid as long as you dont spray a ton of it. Again, if you're already tuned with out it, then you don't really care about anything when spraying a little washer fluid to cool things.
so I have the full kit installed with **** turned off so I CAN use it whenever. I did NOT use it for tune. All I’ll need to do is drain the m1 out of tank and fill with washer fluid.
so I will or will not need a retune to spray the washer fluid at the higher rpms? If I can spray the washer fluid without a retune then what would I use as a reading to know if spraying to much or to little? I assumed the AIT sensor. The nozzle is a 15 size(5oz a second) and is before the sensor in charge pipe. I thought when you spray the meth you use the AIT to monitor how much your using.
my kit has general turn on ****, when it turns on with motor ****, how much comes out **** and when it fully sprays ****. Pretty sure anyways. It’s wired into map sensor also.
You use the iat sensor as a failsafe that the meth is spraying but that's for when you're relying on it. You'll need to try it and see if WWF with an m15 makes it too rich or not.
You use the iat sensor as a failsafe that the meth is spraying but that's for when you're relying on it. You'll need to try it and see if WWF with an m15 makes it too rich or not.
I’ll have to make a video with wideband and LEDs and tablet . Will be able see when turns on, when full pressure and what each bank does. I have wideband on each side exhaust before the xpipe.
Just put a 7gph nozzle on with washer fluid and don't worry about re-tuning. Play with the activation points. until its smooth. I believe those just have a progressive ****? initial start boost vs final 100% duty cycle boost? Dont worry about aiming for a specific IAT temp.
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Finally tuned 
