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3600lb car, 702rwhp on manual trans, 656rwhp through th400, twin gt35 5.3...
ok first time to track I had a best time of 10.55 @135 with a 3.37 gear. Issue I had was going into 3rd gear it sat on converter until I finished the 1/4mile and I lost my power all that time in 3rd. ignore slip 1&2, practice launches.
so I changed the gear to a 3.54, went back to track again. Now the car came off the converter in 3rd gear and can hear rpm rise above converter before finished 1/4 so that’s good. However, car ran consistently slower somehow.
on bright side, cars very very consistent lol. Times are almost identical.
anyways, I’m taking my th400 and converter out of this car and making 5spd again so I can drive around whenever and have traction again. The auto on the road just spins 1st and 2nd.
what do you guys think of this setup for a drag car? Using same body car but this one has a solid 8.8 setup for $5000. Not sure if that’s expensive. Essentially just shell with stock lq4, need front tubed/cage but whole rear suspension is done.
Narrowed 8.8 with 3.27 ford racing gears and a Yukon spool. 31 spline Yukon axles with C clip eliminators. Viking double adjustable coils spec’d by Viking. Trans member setup for th400
Wow... I thought you might need to upgrade to a PTC but looks like you purchased a good one.
Last pass I made this year with my Twin GT35's, I let off a little early with a hurt engine(Head gasket and two burnt pistons, still drove home from the track) and ran 10.3 @ 123mph.
I'm down for the upcoming winter while I rebuild the engine. I'll likely change my hotside to feed my twins with some new log manifolds I bought or install a new VS Racing S480 clone that I bought earlier this month.
I'm running a PTC TC on a built TH350 w/Transbrake. While I was waiting for the PTC TC to be built, I bought a used 'BossHog' TC just so I could drive the car. Went to the strip with that and it blew right thru the converter. RPM's would go to 6,800 and stay there without dropping on each shift. I had a Junkyard 4L80E w/stock converter in the car back in April. I tried to footbrake it but any throttle at all just pushed me right thru the lights, front wheels sliding. So I'd leave it in Drive, leave at idle, stomping the throttle and let it shift itself. The ET's were slow at 11.5 but it MPH'd at 133. Eventually, it wore down some of the clutches and would bang off the rev limiter then shift. I pulled it and put in the built TH350. I'm rebuilding the 4L80E now and have a PTC TC for it.
Originally Posted by Z32_5.3
UCC converter $1750 shipped.
Last edited by mightyquickz28; Oct 27, 2020 at 07:57 AM.
.2 is not a big change in gearing. I'm surprised it acted any different honestly. What was it trapping B4? The ET issue is your 60' for sure. You change to an auto to get rid of things like 1.8 60' times. That's pretty terrible for an auto car. Once that's addressed and sorted out it would be a whole new car. Get it in the 1.4x area (not unrealistic at all) you'll drop 8 10th's off your slip! That's 9.7x ET's. As a comparison I was running 1.8 60' times on street radials. A good Tire makes all the difference.
You really need some sort of traction management. Its a ton more work to swap it back to a manual. Buy a good ECU and be done. You'll be light years ahead of where you'd be with a manual on the street and the track with much less breakage and headache. The reason you spin is because it's applying power in a less leniar fashion. You dial that in with boost by speed and traction control and you'll be set.
I have nothing against manual's. They just cost a mint to keep alive at your weight/power level compared to a manual and will never ET like an auto for the $.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Oct 28, 2020 at 12:58 PM.
.2 is not a big change in gearing. I'm surprised it acted any different honestly. What was it trapping B4? The ET issue is your 60' for sure. You change to an auto to get rid of things like 1.8 60' times. That's pretty terrible for an auto car. Once that's addressed and sorted out it would be a whole new car. Get it in the 1.4x area (not unrealistic at all) you'll drop 8 10th's off your slip! That's 9.7x ET's. As a comparison I was running 1.8 60' times on street radials. A good Tire makes all the difference.
You really need some sort of traction management. Its a ton more work to swap it back to a manual. Buy a good ECU and be done. You'll be light years ahead of where you'd be with a manual on the street and the track with much less breakage and headache. The reason you spin is because it's applying power in a less leniar fashion. You dial that in with boost by speed and traction control and you'll be set.
I have nothing against manual's. They just cost a mint to keep alive at your weight/power level compared to a manual and will never ET like an auto for the $.
im going back to manual because it’s a process trying set the car up for the track. I want to have a track car. It is a lot of fun actually doing the drag racing at the track but I do miss driving my car with wheels on it lol.
so I’ve decided to leave current car at this boost level and put manual in it, I have all the stuff to do so except clutch. Then I’ll drive this around normally. I have the auto stuff already and a gen 3.5 6.0 too. So easy enough to get another car for track car which I can cage and shave weight on it. Track car needs to be adjusted constantly and played with. I don’t wanna have parts in and out of my street car for cruising and meets or highway.
best of both worlds is going to be 2 cars. I could spend more money trying get bigger tires in back of car but then I need fender flares. Need to be swapping diffs to go fast at track then swap longer to go on highway. Some point it’s easier to have 2 cars. The cage is also the biggest thing. Getting kicked off the track after 3 runs sucks.
Looks amazing, I bet that thing is gonna HOOK...., great job man! !!!!
I can’t take credit for those pictures at end, the 8.8 is actually inside another shell that the person wants 5000 for it. I didn’t know if that’s worth the money.
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Changed gear, last track day of year 
