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Adding turbos on LS2 68 Camaro - Advice

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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 08:20 AM
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Default Adding turbos on LS2 68 Camaro - Advice

Hey guys.. yes i did search a lot and all over. However, I wasn't able to find any straightforward helpful info. and again.. I'm new to muscle cars, and don't have the same experience as you all.. so I'm turning for help. Sorry if some of the questions might come off as being ignorant .. anyways.

Some of you know my 68 SS build.. for those who don't, I did an LS2 swap with a 6speed T56. Previously had a 350ci. The work was done by a mechanic.. I believe the engine came off an 05-06 GTO. I use this car on weekends, street driven only, no drag or track.. just to enjoy driving it! The LS2 is great, but i do feel like I want to add a bit more power.. enough to give me a kick and make the drive more thrilling.

I'm a big fan of turbos (not superchargers) due to having multiple builds on JDM cars (more knowledge there).. I'm thinking of adding a single or twin turbos on my LS2? so here come my questions:


-How easy is it to drop in turbos on my Ls2?
-What other parts are needed?
-Do i need any modification done in the engine bay?
-Single or Twin? (i live in a hot climate 8 months/yr)

-- Super silly justification, i would like a single just because most of my other builds are twin. I want to experience a good single (im aware of the lag vs twin).


I would appreciate any advice.. again.. my knowledge in muscles is very low.. you guys are my mentors lol. Thank you
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 10:41 AM
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Hi those are a lot of relative questions, but in my view it won’t be easy but depending on who is dong the build and their experience. It’s certainly manageable.

You can boost what you have or sky's the limit.

I prefer Twins, but mostly because I’m OCD and like symmetry. You can make big power with either.

Firsts and second gen engine bays are very similar so no issue there. I used eBay up and forward headers.


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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Jwooky
Hi those are a lot of relative questions, but in my view it won’t be easy but depending on who is dong the build and their experience. It’s certainly manageable.

You can boost what you have or sky's the limit.

I prefer Twins, but mostly because I’m OCD and like symmetry. You can make big power with either.

Firsts and second gen engine bays are very similar so no issue there. I used eBay up and forward headers.

thanks for replying. Other than the turbos & headers... what other parts would I need additionally?
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Old Dec 14, 2020 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jwooky
Hi those are a lot of relative questions, but in my view it won’t be easy but depending on who is dong the build and their experience. It’s certainly manageable.

You can boost what you have or sky's the limit.

I prefer Twins, but mostly because I’m OCD and like symmetry. You can make big power with either.

Firsts and second gen engine bays are very similar so no issue there. I used eBay up and forward headers.
very weird i replied back last night but for some reason it wasn't posted. thanks for replying so far from what info i've gathered on dropping turbos on my stock LS2 block.

- Max 6-9psi with a good tune
- New fuel system upgrade
- New cams (BTR Stage 2) https://briantooleyracing.com/btr-ca...-32734133.html

What other parts would I also need? Headers? also what's the best Single & Twins to get (Part #)? Thank you
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Old Dec 15, 2020 | 11:10 AM
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What is your budget? That's a small amount of boost, hardly makes it worth while IMO. But you can always turn it up. You can get a set of small china GT3582s for $140 each. Or you can buy some insane dual BB ceramic precision turbos for $1200+ each. Just depends what you want. If the turbos are visible I'd consider the mirror image turbos VSR now sells($378 ea). Defiantly helps with the whole symmetry aspect. Twins being non-mirrored messes with my perception of symmetry as mentioned above.

https://turbo4less.com/product/vsr-g...-normal-turbo/

IMO for 6lbs a small single is all that's needed and likely alot easier to install. You could even put in in place of the factory muffler and leave most of what you have up front in tact. Retain your old exhaust manifolds and piping for the most part and use it for the rear mount turbo kit. The cheapest 78/75 VSR sells (same seller as above) will do what you want and more.

For 6-8 lbs you don't need to change the cam, or run a "turbo cam".
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Old Dec 15, 2020 | 03:21 PM
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You've done this several times, but don't know what you need to do?
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Old Dec 15, 2020 | 05:04 PM
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My 67 has a single.

You'll probably need to ditch or notch your inner fenders to fit everything. We have a group on FB, 'LS First Gens' good group for pics.
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
What is your budget? That's a small amount of boost, hardly makes it worth while IMO. But you can always turn it up. You can get a set of small china GT3582s for $140 each. Or you can buy some insane dual BB ceramic precision turbos for $1200+ each. Just depends what you want. If the turbos are visible I'd consider the mirror image turbos VSR now sells($378 ea). Defiantly helps with the whole symmetry aspect. Twins being non-mirrored messes with my perception of symmetry as mentioned above.

https://turbo4less.com/product/vsr-g...-normal-turbo/

IMO for 6lbs a small single is all that's needed and likely alot easier to install. You could even put in in place of the factory muffler and leave most of what you have up front in tact. Retain your old exhaust manifolds and piping for the most part and use it for the rear mount turbo kit. The cheapest 78/75 VSR sells (same seller as above) will do what you want and more.

For 6-8 lbs you don't need to change the cam, or run a "turbo cam".
Thanks a lot for replying I'll respond to all the points below.

I don't have a set budget yet, as I'm still not sure what parts i need alongside with the turbos. But to give you figures, I wouldn't want to spend more than $5-7K. Also, I'd rather go with quality vs cheaper parts.

The Twin vs single option: I'd rather go with whichever is easier, less work.. vs cost. symmetry aspect doesn't make a difference to me lol.

Boost: on another forum, was told the LS2 stock block would handle max 6-9psi. If i plan to have more say 10-15psi (What engine upgrades would I need? .. would I also need to upgrade anything in my T56 / C6 clutches?)

Component parts: if I go with a single turbo (e.g. PT 7675 or similar..), what other parts do I need to add/replace? It would help if you could recommend links or Part # for each...

- Fuel injectors, size, Part#?
- Fuel pumps, needed? size? Part #?
- Wastegates, part#? (unless those come with a turbo kit)
- BOV, part#? (i read about JGS 50mm TK300-500)
- Cam, do i need to upgrade? Part #?
- Spark plugs, do i need to upgrade? Part #?
- Oil lines, do i need to upgrade? Part #?
- Intercooler... right now I have a custom made large intercooler. Would I need a specific one/size for running turbos?
- Am i missing any other parts?

I reached out to shops, so far one replied and recommended the following kit.. not sure if that's all the parts needed and no other upgrades: http://stores.lsxeverything.com/67-6...win-turbo-kit/

Thank you so much!! Appreciate the support.
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by AwesomeAuto
You've done this several times, but don't know what you need to do?
on JDM cars, modern... not classic muscles. (new to all of this)
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 04:52 AM
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What does JDM stand for?

thanks
Jim
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367
What does JDM stand for?

thanks
Jim
japanese domestic market - Supras , GTRs etc.. my knowledge is more on those cars /engines
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 10:26 AM
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That's a lot of questions! Most with a lot of possible answers as well.

5-7k is defiantly doable... If you aren't having a shop do the labor. I wouldn't buy that kit personally. Its 1000 worth of parts, if that. And many aren't needed. That said the amount of labor it would save you would be considerable... but not $3k considerable IMO. Factory exh manifolds work VERY well. I'd always use them if it were an option.

And LS2 is high compression, so it may not tolerate much boost without detonation on pump fuel. Solution is to run E85. With good fuel it will handle much more boost. Or drop the compression down to a more reasonable level.(317 heads) If you have to buy injectors, I'd buy once and size them for E85 Bosch 210lb from VSR racing. (if its available to you, run it) If not, decap stock injectors and run them on pump gas.

There's no real reason to spend brand name money on a turbo unless your racing competitively IMO. Esp. with your budget. Id look at a single as you really don't need much boost and it will be easier to package a small single. Where you place it is up to you. You can literally put them anywhere and you don't need aftermarket manifolds or exhaust parts to do it. Honestly an LS2 is snappy enough I wouldn't think twice about remote mounting the turbo. Makes for a clean install and you can use all your existing exhaust parts. Look at a few remote mount setups on here. Trick is not to go overboard on piping size with remote turbos. Factory "y" pipe and a single 2.5" back to the turbo is plenty. Then run a single 2.5" charge pipe back up to the IC and 3" from the IC outlet to the TB.

If you go with a front mount setup resist the urge to use large diameter piping. 2.25" is more than enough. 2.25" off the factory manifold to the turbo flange. Mild steel 16g piping is fine. Don't go any thinner.

As for the rest these things, they have been gone over and over. Read around. Looks at the sloppy mechanics wiki page etc.

I don't know enough specifics to spec out an entire combo all I can do it tell you what i'd use.

I prefer AEM400 external pumps. 1 pump is generally good for 600ish whp on E85. (this assumes proper plumbing and voltage) Buy 2 if you need more fuel than that. At $140 ea, 2 AEM400's will pump more fuel than the typical big money single pumps. 210lb bosch inj from VSR would be my pick.

You don't need a cam! leave it alone. (i would ensure you have decent valve springs though. PAC1218 or similar)

NGK BR7EF plugs are the standard for boosted LS motors.

Any 50mm BOV is fine. 38-50mm WG is also fine assuming its positioned correctly. I'd contact Viren at VS Racing and tell him what you are looking to do. He can spec out the turbo, WG,BOV, and injectors at great prices.

Nothing special needed for oil lines. Push to connect tubing rated for hyd fluid/trans fluid is fine. Braided SS lines if you want to be extra safe or like the look. Buy either form summit/jegs. An4 for turbo supply. An10 minimum for turbo drain. I prefer larger.

No fancy IC needed, I'd spend most of the money on a good ECU and a good Driveline. The turbo and kit are the cheap parts. T56 stuff is out of my element. Can't help there. Nothing against them, just never met a manual I couldn't break. (mostly user error I'm sure!)

Last edited by Forcefed86; Dec 16, 2020 at 10:39 AM.
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 10:59 AM
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Buddy of mine ran 24 PSI on a stock LS2 long block with a sloppy stage 2 cam and E85.
Pair of ebay tubular manifolds, twin VS cast 67s, Edelbrock pro-flo. Made 900+ wheel blowing through the converter with a TH400.
Ran a 9.0 @ 158 in an S10 with a crap launch.
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 11:50 AM
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Majj, what fuel are you going to use, and do you have any particular HP or track goals?
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 02:04 PM
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What forcefed says ^^^^^ also vs 7875 s work great for street cars if the power goals aren't too high - light and physically small ,easy to package with limited space. Did I see in the photo that you have the heater hose fittings blocked and from what I can see no steam line ? Neither is a good idea
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Old Dec 17, 2020 | 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
That's a lot of questions! Most with a lot of possible answers as well.

5-7k is defiantly doable... If you aren't having a shop do the labor. I wouldn't buy that kit personally. Its 1000 worth of parts, if that. And many aren't needed. That said the amount of labor it would save you would be considerable... but not $3k considerable IMO. Factory exh manifolds work VERY well. I'd always use them if it were an option.

And LS2 is high compression, so it may not tolerate much boost without detonation on pump fuel. Solution is to run E85. With good fuel it will handle much more boost. Or drop the compression down to a more reasonable level.(317 heads) If you have to buy injectors, I'd buy once and size them for E85 Bosch 210lb from VSR racing. (if its available to you, run it) If not, decap stock injectors and run them on pump gas.

There's no real reason to spend brand name money on a turbo unless your racing competitively IMO. Esp. with your budget. Id look at a single as you really don't need much boost and it will be easier to package a small single. Where you place it is up to you. You can literally put them anywhere and you don't need aftermarket manifolds or exhaust parts to do it. Honestly an LS2 is snappy enough I wouldn't think twice about remote mounting the turbo. Makes for a clean install and you can use all your existing exhaust parts. Look at a few remote mount setups on here. Trick is not to go overboard on piping size with remote turbos. Factory "y" pipe and a single 2.5" back to the turbo is plenty. Then run a single 2.5" charge pipe back up to the IC and 3" from the IC outlet to the TB.

If you go with a front mount setup resist the urge to use large diameter piping. 2.25" is more than enough. 2.25" off the factory manifold to the turbo flange. Mild steel 16g piping is fine. Don't go any thinner.

As for the rest these things, they have been gone over and over. Read around. Looks at the sloppy mechanics wiki page etc.

I don't know enough specifics to spec out an entire combo all I can do it tell you what i'd use.

I prefer AEM400 external pumps. 1 pump is generally good for 600ish whp on E85. (this assumes proper plumbing and voltage) Buy 2 if you need more fuel than that. At $140 ea, 2 AEM400's will pump more fuel than the typical big money single pumps. 210lb bosch inj from VSR would be my pick.

You don't need a cam! leave it alone. (i would ensure you have decent valve springs though. PAC1218 or similar)

NGK BR7EF plugs are the standard for boosted LS motors.

Any 50mm BOV is fine. 38-50mm WG is also fine assuming its positioned correctly. I'd contact Viren at VS Racing and tell him what you are looking to do. He can spec out the turbo, WG,BOV, and injectors at great prices.

Nothing special needed for oil lines. Push to connect tubing rated for hyd fluid/trans fluid is fine. Braided SS lines if you want to be extra safe or like the look. Buy either form summit/jegs. An4 for turbo supply. An10 minimum for turbo drain. I prefer larger.

No fancy IC needed, I'd spend most of the money on a good ECU and a good Driveline. The turbo and kit are the cheap parts. T56 stuff is out of my element. Can't help there. Nothing against them, just never met a manual I couldn't break. (mostly user error I'm sure!)
wow thanks a lot for the detailed feedback appreciate it. unfortunately, i moved back overseas, and we don't have E85 here.. we have 95 RON (crappy).. almost close to 93 octane. in that case, would the recommended Injectors and fuel pumps be different??

Yes, leaning more towards a big single turbo.. easier less hassle. and so:
I'm not sure which Y-pipes I have (bought it from a dealer who din't know all the details done by the original owner). I do know that i have a 2.5 Pypes StreetPro mufflers. as for the exhaust pipes, it's a custom made rear-extended. Previously was side exit (suffocating).

The front intercooler, is also custom made.. large.. I'll have to check the piping size and see if it's 2.25" - 2.5" or not.

for the bov & wastegate, brand doesnt matter right? as long as it's the correct sizing you mentioned. oh forgot to mention, i did install a vintage A/C compressor...posting more photos below of my car.. some might spot things i don't.




Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Majj, what fuel are you going to use, and do you have any particular HP or track goals?
95 RON .. no HP goals or track plans.. just looking to add a little kick. plus, i'm a big FAN of turbos (pun .. haha)
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Old Dec 17, 2020 | 12:17 PM
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Just a matter of where you can fit it. I'd think if you relocated the battery and overflow you could tuck a 78/75 in there pretty easily. I still suggest the same AEM400 pump, just one of them. The factory flex fuel injectors flow around 72lbs decapped. Id use those to save money and install a water/meth kit to make up for the lack of octane and keep the boost low as you mentioned. As far as the piping size that mainly related to the remote mount turbos. Like if you wanted to mount it in the back of the car above the rear axle kind of thing. You can step up or down at the IC/TB/TURBO with couplers as needed.
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