When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
How do you guys cool your engine with intercooler covering radiator
So...figuring out Cold side. 6.0 single S478 turbo in a 73 Camaro. Worked around the front, modified hood latch for more room in the front. Got a 31x12x4 intercooler which can be installed nicely in the front. Now, thinking IC covers radiator almost completely and having a condenser sandwiched there also...Is this gonna work?I saw bunch of similar builds with IC covering the air opening, but never got to ask them how it performs in real world. Searching for some radiator fans, called "derale" tech. support and he said you need to relocate that IC otherwise it will overheat. Relocate where for god sake? Need some inputs here. %100 street car, no less than 750 RWHP. Just wanna know how you guys cool a setup like this. I will put the biggest dual pass radiator I can find and fit there but my concern is still there. Thank y'all.
I've had both the stock 4th gen radiator and a Griffin radiator behind the intercooler on my 96 Z28. Cooling has never been a problem. At full temp, my temp gauge has the needle just below the first 1/4 mark, even on full passes in the quarter mile at 21 psi.
With the stock 4th gen radiator, I was running the stock puller fans, but put in front of the radiator and wired to push. Did a great job cooling but the fans howled in the backward direction since the blades were not optimized in their shape for that direction. The Griffin radiator is cooled (still pushing) with two of the Derale Fans. I used this writeup for my radiator and fans. Griffin Radiator.
Mine cools fine blocked by my IC. I have a good aluminum radiator and use the Ford/Lincoln Mark V fan. Cut the shroud down and sealed it to the radiator. I can feel the fan pulling air through the intercooler when I place my hand in front of it.
^^^ not 750 rwhp here but managing to keep it around 85° F over ambient
- big griffin rad , single pass , and not the extra thick one
- Taurus 3.8 L fan
- 160 stat with 1 hole drilled 5/32 IIRC
- remote derale trans cooler with fan ( 0 trans heat added to engine cooling)
- as much air directed through rad as possible , air dam under rad support and rad to rad support reasonably sealed
2 row single pass and a single 16" spal puller
got the ac heat exchanger stuffed between the IC and the rad now too.
i target 210* coolant temp and it has no issue holding it.
I try and lower the IC'er as much as possible to expose the rad, but you can only do so much. Idle temps can suffer, but moving usually cools OK. One thing I have learned over the years, some cool good, some don't no matter what, lol. Not sure if the alumn. blocks cool better or not, never run one.
My current car has a pretty large Be Cool universal rad, no IC'er, only thing in front is a small trans cooler. I have one 16" Spal puller, which covers about 60% of the rad., at idle it will pull down the temps at idle. But it doesn't seem to cool like I thought it would, but I run a Holley term X max, and when the engine is cool, the temp sensor reads cooler than it should. So I dont know if I am getting a true temp after warm up. But its what the ECU bases the fan on with. I have installed 180 thermo., but its always higher.
but I run a Holley term X max, and when the engine is cool, the temp sensor reads cooler than it should. So I dont know if I am getting a true temp after warm up. But its what the ECU bases the fan on with.
A known problem w/ the Holley supplied sensor.
No need to not know.
Change the sensor, and then tune the fan temps.
^^^ not 750 rwhp here but managing to keep it around 85° F over ambient
- big griffin rad , single pass , and not the extra thick one
- Taurus 3.8 L fan
- 160 stat with 1 hole drilled 5/32 IIRC
- remote derale trans cooler with fan ( 0 trans heat added to engine cooling)
- as much air directed through rad as possible , air dam under rad support and rad to rad support reasonably sealed
Same here only I run a single Spal 16” fan. No issues.
I try and lower the IC'er as much as possible to expose the rad, but you can only do so much. Idle temps can suffer, but moving usually cools OK. One thing I have learned over the years, some cool good, some don't no matter what, lol. Not sure if the alumn. blocks cool better or not, never run one.
My current car has a pretty large Be Cool universal rad, no IC'er, only thing in front is a small trans cooler. I have one 16" Spal puller, which covers about 60% of the rad., at idle it will pull down the temps at idle. But it doesn't seem to cool like I thought it would, but I run a Holley term X max, and when the engine is cool, the temp sensor reads cooler than it should. So I don't know if I am getting a true temp after warm up. But its what the ECU bases the fan on with. I have installed 180 thermo., but its always higher.
Interesting. I've been reading about fans and advertised CFM rating. What I don't understand, is how come one single 16" fan can do the job, as many prefer that ford OE fan over aftermarket dual setup or it just cheaper? Personally, I'm more comfortable with 2 fans, unless someone can proves me wrong. "Derale" shrouded power pack uses 2 12" spal pullers each rate 2000 CFM. Now, you think that single 16" moves more air? I also have a 71 BB Corvette with a massive "be cool" radiator and I'm just not comfortable driving it in traffic in summer and it has no IC in there. Temp goes up to around 210-215 with A/C on in traffic both fans running high speed...I just want to do it once and forget about it.
Or I might be able to get a smaller IC (covering less area) and run water/meth to keep IAT low...that's another thing. I plan to run that anyway. Looking at "griffin" dual pass 28"X18X3 radiator...how about single vs dual pass radiator? On the paper, it should be better as coolant stays longer in radiator, but what's the "real world" experience?
Yeah I think the issue is you got a lot of different builds out there and some run mint with a single 16" puller and some can't make it 2 miles with that setup. Lots of factors.
Some guys on bookface were just talking about how much timing they run at idle and cruising, and for the latter some guys talked about how their cars run cool with big timing, like 35-40 degrees. Some guys commented they run as much as 22 degrees of idle timing. Then you have other factors like some guys running turbo setups in tight engine compartments and there is nowhere for the hot air to go....
Yeah I think the issue is you got a lot of different builds out there and some run mint with a single 16" puller and some can't make it 2 miles with that setup. Lots of factors.
Some guys on bookface were just talking about how much timing they run at idle and cruising, and for the latter some guys talked about how their cars run cool with big timing, like 35-40 degrees. Some guys commented they run as much as 22 degrees of idle timing. Then you have other factors like some guys running turbo setups in tight engine compartments and there is nowhere for the hot air to go....
Watch the MAP sensor as you increase timing at idle. Keep upping timing until the MAP quits dropping (draws the most vacuum). FYI, I’m at 22 on my table but it fluctuates a few degrees to keep the idle speed on target (850 rpms).
Back to the OP's question, the only time I have seen an issue with an IC blocking too much radiator airflow involved towing. Otherwise, by the time you need your full cooling capacity you have high speed airflow that is sufficient. I have seen many towing issues with IC's blocking the radiator, but that has to do with heavy towing, low speed, and heavy throttle applications when the driver finally got a few feet of clear road to drive up every so often.
absolutely, while rich and retarded is great for keeping things alive under boost , puts a lot of extra heat into the cooling system and exhaust system if the whole tune is that way. Fixed plenty of carb/ distributor tunes and 1 of the comments is always " it runs alot cooler now " another good side effect is fuel economy which I consider important for any daily drivers. No reason to be richer that stoic until you start getting into some load , I play with the ve/pe tables to gradually richen up a bit under 10 in. Vacuum > to ~ 12.5 ish @ 0 vac > 11.5 by 4lbs . As far as timing goes these fast burning chambers require about 10 ° less timing than old school stuff - both WOT and cruise / idle - very general here. Also think about the idle /cruise timing as having an old school Vacuum advance hooked up up adding 10-12 ° . So depending on cam / compression and fuel of course , 20 -22 @ idle ~ 35° @ 2000 rpm cruise / light load is working well for me ( lq4 214 /214 cam )
I wouldn't lose sleep over it a few guys on here answered the question already. I will just add to it call Be Cool get the biggest 4 row you can with dual electric fans you should have no issues. I actually don't take my car out passed 85 degrees because of no AC lol. I will say if I had AC I would feel comfortable in 85 degree weather in traffic with fans on I have never went over 210 my intercooler on a twin setup 1700hp blocks my whole radiator setup has worked great.
I run a 2000 Supercharged Vette with 800 WHP that has a trans cooler, IC, condenser, DeWitts radiator and DeWitts dual spal fans, contained in a shroud. This keeps everything cool with my bottom breather. You should get plenty of air with a front breather(straight air flow from the front facia).
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Slideshow: The controversial Ferrari F6 swaps its original flat-12 for a Corvette Z06-derived LT4 V8 and sends power to four rear wheels through a custom-built drivetrain.
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Slideshow:These GM engines didn't just make huge power, they survived abuse, boost, track days, and six-digit mileage with a reputation for refusing to quit.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
How do you guys cool your engine with intercooler covering radiator 
