The one I have has a hole in the top, I believe the ad even points out the hole in the lid, perhaps you got a dud? I would drill a hole in it if its missing.

 

I don't know, which is why I want to try it, lol.
I already have most of the stuff to do it in 4", I'm just a little hesitant to have it dump straight down like I originally planned, and after just now looking at it, again, my right side wastegate is, of course, right where a 4" fender exit pipe would have to be...

I'm not too concerned about the wideband. It is only for datalogging and monitoring while I drive. I run a factory ECU, so it doesn't do any tuning...I have to do it with my HPTuners. I have an A pillar wideband gauge (Lambda) and simply glance at it while making a WOT run. As long as I see a .7x, I won't let off the gas pedal, LOL.

I thought on the link it shows it coming with a "revised" cap for that overflow tank...with a vent hole in the cap?

All I know is I am starting to get flustered with the whole 3" to 4", and all the little BS stuff that would also need to be done for it to not be cobbled together.

I really, REALLY do NOT want to lose my catback exhaust. I love the way it sounds, and it's just a cutout switch button push away from being pretty damn good running street car...I might just say, Screw it, and keep the turbo as-is, with the .96 A/R cover...then to swap on the 4" elbow for the occasional Test & Tune (assuming it's worthwhile to do so), I'd literally have a simple 1/2 hour (or less) job to take the 2 V bands off that secure the 3" DP (1 to turbo, 1 to other half of downpipe), swap the wideband O2 sensor over, and then put 1 V band back on to hold the 4" DP on...The rest of the exhaust can't go anywhere, even if the front part of the downpipe is gone.

If the car picks up, but still has the high IAT's, I'd guess that means I actually "need" the bigger turbine housing, and I can address it, and all the little mods required, then.

 

Gonna go out on a limb here and say leave it alone and install an electric cutout right before the exhaust makes the turn to go to the back, it may relieve enough pressure to make the difference you're looking for.
I ran a full 3" exhaust on my previous turbo 4th gen and with the cutout way back below the driver floor board it still made a massive difference.
Then you'd be looking at minimal modifications and keeping the catback.
At some point you reach the threshold of sacrificing the parts of the car you love to chase speed and end up ruining the car, kinda sounds like you're at that point...

 

Is that right? I'll have to check that out.
Thanks!

 

Aha!

 

My 3" deal right now, I have the cutout just past the starter, and, like you said, it absolutely makes a huge difference...like 1/2 second quicker ET on 10# or less boost.

As much as I hate to admit it, you are right about the BOLDED BLUE TEXT above...
This exact reality is why I have not been able to commit to a rollbar/rollcage. Dumb? Yes
OTOH, it sucks trying to slow the car down to 11.50's to be NHRA legal when I bracket race.

Another sucky thing is I literally have everything needed to do a short, 90 degree downpipe, which is why I even posted the question...but now I am not wanting to dump exhaust directly under car, straight down.

I'm going to let the whole idea stew for awhile...lol.

 

Just because of noise?

 

So could you do the 4" 90 dump off the turbo down to the ground at an angle with a 4" cutout at the bottom then tie the 3" exhaust into the 4" 90 right by the v-band at the k-member?
That looks doable from the pictures you provided?

 

No worries about the noise, although an open cutout does start getting annoying just driving around.
I am mainly concerned about getting to the point where with every little change I want to do, I need to do 3 more to make that one work...like this exhaust idea.

The easiest, IMHO, would be to simply do the 90 degree 4" and swap it on before track days...

If I do go ahead and swap from the .96 to the 1.25 turbine housing, AND the 4" D/P, it "should" make the same power at less boost, right?

That was my original idea, and It should be do-able, but not something I want to mess with until off season.

.

 

I did 3" fender bumper exit on my HSP V1 kit. On the HSP kit the wastegate is pretty much under the exhaust housing and required a 45* bend to clear and it was tight to snake it between the gate and the lower rad hose. Other than that it went smooth. Remove the overflow/battery tray - the battery will still sit pretty good without the tray. I used an expired "sub" belt from my old harness set as a battery hold down and it's not going anywhere. For the coolant overflow I grabbed one of the kids aluminum water bottles and drilled tapped it for a couple of fittings. I still need to pick up a 3/4 npt plug to replace the plastic cap, but so far no issues.
As far as noise, it's really not bad in the car. I think it's quieter in the car than the cat back was when it was N/A, outside though not so much, it's definitely not as loud as it was with the cutout open N/A. If you want pictures I can put in on the lift and snap a few.

 

I went from. 96ar 3 inch down pipe to 1.25 ar 4 inch.

 

Whats the size difference between the two turbine housings?

 

That's crazy. Mine is MUCH louder with 3" D/P open down by starter, as opposed to through the catback, or with cutout open (when it was back under rear passenger side seat.)

Would love to see pics, if you get a chance, but moreso of the battery hold-down setup.

Have you driven and/or raced it like that yet?
Just curious of what your impressions were.

 

Above, he says .96 compared to the 1.25.

That's the size difference I'd be doing as well, if go through with it.

Physically, as his pic shows pretty well, it's a good bit larger. That was another concern of mine...I have very little "extra" space, and since I literally just re-did my crossover a few months ago, there's a zero chance of me re-doing it again until something happens where it "needs" to be done.

 

Yea if any of you guys with both turbos could measure the size difference that would be great.

 

I thought the newer cars could now run 10.0's w/o a bar. You going up Sat?

 

2008 and newer can run 10.00 and slower.

Saturday is one of the 3 days for their twice yearly Harrington Bracket Nationals, or whatever it's called.
I'm done in a day, lol...
I'll be there in a week and a half, October 2nd for the Outlaw Streetcar Shootout, like 5 spots past the bleachers, on tower side of track...right against the fence, just past 1/8th mile.
That's my reserved spot, #103. Been there for 4 years now.

This weekend is this:

.

 

It's amazing how much quieter it is with the noise out in front of you. It doesn't resonate off the floor pan and ground. I've just got a 6.5" long bullet on it, so basically nothing. In the car, you can have a normal conversation, you couldn't with it dumped at the starter.


I've used this battery hold down for about 10 years, I think I swapped the belt once because it was dirty. The back uses a belt bracket as well, I had to cut it down and re-drill it. It uses the stock bolt on the backside. Those little brackets are hard as hell - be ready for a fight if you drill one! You can grab the battery and shake the car, it's not going anywhere.

 

That looks awesome IMO. Thanks for the pic

 

On the 2 step it does take a little longer. Before at the track when both staging light up. I could floor it and hit 12 psi before the last yellow would light up. And on the street it was like a an old four barrel kicking in. How have a slight hesitation and roast the tires. I've not mess with the tune any at all. Wanted to do a fair comparison between the two. I can tell it alittle lag maybe. Maybe like a second more maybe. I'd have to really set down and compare the logs. Friday is last day of season at our local 1/4. Hope to have to hard data. But backpressure is alot less. Now.