Going over my plans for for my 3" to 4" downpipe (&.96A/R to 1.25A/R turbine housing) swap, and on my front mount turbo'd 2000 TransAm there simply is NOT a whole lot of real estate to work with.

It looks like I may be limited to about 20" total length for the new D/P.
I have no desire to relocate my battery, or re-doing intercooler piping, so D/P will be a simple 90 degree pipe from turbine outlet, out the guesstimated 20", including the part of it that's pointing straight down to the ground.

I'm not enthused at all, about having a possible death trap ride if I blow a head gasket or 2, but right now this short D/P is only option I see.

Is that going to be long enough? ie; is there even a downpipe that can be "too short"?

I have a new O2 bung for the wideband sensor. I "think" I'll be stuck with it's position being maybe only 6-8" away from turbo...
Is that going to be too close?

FWIW, I use narrowbands (in crossover pipe, 6" from each cylinder head merge) for IDLE/CRUISE tuning...
and wideband, only for WOT tuning.

I had debated (w/myself) about doing the 4" downpipe with the existing .96 housing, but am leaning towards just doing it all at once. All, being/meaning downpipe and housing.

LOL...now that I actually see the pics, it's going to be a HOOT making this work...
.
.

 

So it's just going to be pointing straight down at the ground for this effort? I'm going to be doing something somewhat similar for next season, but planning to do a fender exit of a 4" or 5" off the S480. If I can shoehorn it in that brief length, I may try a bullet muffler.

 

I've run downpipes that are about half your 20", didn't have any issues.

 

These little guys knock down the sound a bit, cheap too!

 

Correct.
My WS6 nose is beat up, tore up, cut up, and whatever other negative thing we can think of, so I'd not have a big problem with fender/fascia exit like the one Huron sells...although I'd not pay $400 for it.
The Huron Speed version (pictured) is a 3" turbo to 4" pipe (which defeats the purpose of my idea), and requires removal of the factory overflow tank.
I believe that would also then REQUIRE some new battery bracketry, at best case scenario?

 

Good deal.

I just "saved" that item to "My List", lol.

Hopefully, someone will chime in with an idea, or pics of how they eliminated stock overflow tank, but kept battery in stock location...or VERY close.

.

 

Add to the list! I use these coolant reservoir relocations in many builds, they work well.
Depending on how much room you need, you could run a smaller battery for track days.

 

Are you planning to join the new 4" down pipe to your existing exhaust and put some kind of cut out on the end of the 4" ? Maybe after the test ?

 

Done! Thanks for the link.
I might partially disassemble that whole area to see exactly what kind of space I have.

That was my original intent, the whole time, as you may recall. That's something I'd have to plan for, and do, over the Winter.

But, yes, that's what I hope to do when all is said and done.

 

Id opt to fit the DP and then sort out the details on where everything else needs to go lol.

 

There are a lot of 4th gens with fender exhaust, I think the 02 placement is important (space from the turbo) other than that play ball!

 

Ideally they are installed between 10 and 2 on the pipe to avoid moisture contamination which kills them quick. As far as space from the turbo, I've had them 4" from turbine wheel and they worked perfectly fine. Look at OEM locations where they put them 6" from the exhaust valve and they last for years.

 

I have the Huron v3 ac kit 4” fender exit new in the box as well as a Forced Inductions T4 Billet S476 96mm (1800ish new) both new that I could part with.

I’ll be selling my Precision 76/75 Billet and my v3 ac kit which doesn’t have 50 miles on it (everything is like new in other words) soon as well. I bought Jon’s APS kit that was used in his post on the White TA so I’m going ac kit twin 6266 real soon.

No power and fences are down from the Nicholas the Dickless. It hit our area of Brazoria County pretty hard. After some recovery and juice back on the I could entertain pulling the kit off the Bird.

The battery box question is you would cut the coolant tank part off for the bumper exit. Bolt the battery box back in and get an aftermarket recovery tank.

I have the muffler shop built exhaust piece that connects to a Billy Boat exhaust with Magnaflow tips as well. My exhaust piece that connects to the DP and passes through the K has a qtp oval welded to it. My setup went 750 to 822 through a 4l80 unlocked and a 9”. Possibly my standup radiator is going too with a might mouse shroud. I was able to run pullers with the Precision. Never tried the S476. Got stupid and bought the twin kit.

 

My thoughts as well...but if you look where they have the bung on that Huron downpipe. Looks like it'd be in the 4-8 o'clock spot IMO...

 

Sorry to hear about the weather caused issues down there. Everything sort of bypassed us here in Maryland.

Unfortunately, it looks like the Huron fender exit pipe would need to be modified, since it is a 3" inlet, and I'll be going with a 4" turbine outlet here shortly.

I'm trying to see just how far this little $570 VSRacing turbo can take me. So far, it's done very well.

I think a 9.50@150 is do-able. (Probably could have done it last weekend if I had used the transbrake, lol)
Never been on a dyno since I put the turbo on, but I'd think I'm somewhere comfortably between 700-800rwhp, even with a 3" downpipe choking it.

The Wallace Racing Calculator seems a bit over enthusiastic with it's guess IMO...I have a dyno literally 3 miles from my house, so I may get him to strap it on there one day just to see where it is, not where I guess it is...

.

 

It does appear that way. I had a local fab shop do the same thing years back, that's why I do everything myself now.

 

.Mine is the 4" Inlet as I bought it for the Gangster S476

 

I honestly hadn't looked to even see if they had other options. I assumed it was just a one off deal for the smaller turbo guys.

Sent you a PM.

 

You really think there's much of a gain on that small turbo to run s 4" VS a 3"? Especially with such a short length? I'd think 3.5" may fit easier and still be overkill at short lengths. FWIW can't be too short IMO but your WB02 readings will be thrown off when no tat WOT and the life will be shortened. I'd run one of the 02 sensor heat sinks like this. I'm curious to see the results! keep up posed!


https://www.ebay.com/itm/38293136373...xoCDRAQAvD_BwE

 

I've been running that overflow bottle since last year. I'm a bit puzzled by the operation. The stock overflow is not sealed, but that Evil Energy (EE) has an O-ringed cap. If I tighten it by hand, drive the car, then let it cool down, the next day the upper radiator hose is flat as if it had excessiive suction on it. If I leave the EE cap a little loose, then the upper radiator hose stays round but sometimes coolant is right near the top of the EE bottle. I thought it might be the radiator cap not sealing well so I replaced that. No change though with the EE bottle cap somewhat loose. Makes me wonder if I'm pushing water.

Thanks for the link on the muffler.