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E85 timing

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Old Oct 5, 2021 | 02:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
I'd pull a couple plugs after a run.
So what's the procedure for this?
Install new plugs at the track.
Drive to lanes, shut car down.
Restart a couple times while moving to the burn out box. (Ideally push car in lanes if possible)
Idle, burnout, make a pass, drive back to the lanes and pull plugs?
That's the only way I would be able to do it, being a street car and all.
Would it be prudent to bring several sets of plugs?
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Old Oct 5, 2021 | 03:05 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by The ******
So what's the procedure for this?
Install new plugs at the track.
Drive to lanes, shut car down.
Restart a couple times while moving to the burn out box. (Ideally push car in lanes if possible)
Idle, burnout, make a pass, drive back to the lanes and pull plugs?
That's the only way I would be able to do it, being a street car and all.
Would it be prudent to bring several sets of plugs?
Several would be good. Can always throw it on a dyno, install new plugs, make a rip, turn it off and check them. At track, new plugs, make a rip, shut it down and check them on return road.
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Old Oct 5, 2021 | 04:08 PM
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Find your hottest plug or 2 the first time and then just pull those when tuning in the future.
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Old Oct 5, 2021 | 04:27 PM
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My buddy has been running his S484 / 370 car and He's been making a pass, drive back to pits, and pulling plugs. the timing mark is still pretty strong.
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Old Oct 7, 2021 | 11:59 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
Only proper answer is check the plugs! Not sure why people routinely risk engines over a $16 set of plugs..
Genuinely curious here, what plugs do you run? I use tr7ix and they like $80 for set.
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Old Oct 7, 2021 | 12:35 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Z32_5.3
Genuinely curious here, what plugs do you run? I use tr7ix and they like $80 for set.
I'm not a fan of IX plugs. I run NGK 3346 BR7EF usually about $2 a piece, they have proven to be great past 1200whp on E85.
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Old Oct 7, 2021 | 02:53 PM
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Yep use the br7ef too about 1000hp then switch to r5671a-8
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 05:22 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
Only proper answer is check the plugs! Not sure why people routinely risk engines over a $16 set of plugs. Be friends with your plugs! Especially when you have your dick beaters all over the keyboard.



Built engines don't like detonation either. My built engine has a good bit higher compression than my SBE so to blindly give it more timing wouldn't work out very well. In all reality you usually end up running less timing on built stuff since there's no point to buying forged parts with thick deck heads unless you are gonna lay the pipe to it.
Just looking to see where most guys are at timing wise . I already know it picks up no mph adding timing above where it’s at. Doesn’t really matter what the plug reads if it picks up no power . I checked a plug and it looked like it could use more timing but if the power is not there why add it? Only thing I haven’t done is make a timing pointer and verify timing and that’s next.
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 09:28 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by yenkomike
Just looking to see where most guys are at timing wise . I already know it picks up no mph adding timing above where it’s at. Doesn’t really matter what the plug reads if it picks up no power . I checked a plug and it looked like it could use more timing but if the power is not there why add it? Only thing I haven’t done is make a timing pointer and verify timing and that’s next.
Like multiple people said just throwing a number in the wind isn't a great idea, I've had 5.3 setups that varied 6+ degrees at peak power, depends on compression, cam, heads, backpressure, IAT, vehicle weight, transmission, etc. If you are running on the lean side like you stated then the plug can look like it wants more timing but you aren't giving it the fuel it wants to use it. If you have a power adder capable of moving more air I would give it more fuel to make more power, then the timing lands wherever it does.
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 10:56 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Z32_5.3
Genuinely curious here, what plugs do you run? I use tr7ix and they like $80 for set.
Can keep those plugs on the side and run them once the tune is dialed in. I liked the iridium line as they have resisted 8 plugs that drop in for the LS. I generally tuned on the Cheap BR7's everyone suggested. Then Drop in the TR8ix on street setups. On race cars the plugs should be out every few passes anyway so no reason to run an $8+ spark plug IMO. I will say they tend to last forever in a daily driver though. Had nothing but good luck with them. I also run without an IC. You may not need an 8 heat range depending on the power levels.
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 12:08 PM
  #31  
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I can ask my tuner, but your AF sounds kind of lean.
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 12:39 PM
  #32  
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Only cars I generally run 20+ deg of timing on E85 are LSA/LS9 builds and I always assumed it was because their heads had soft chambers and no exhaust backpressure as they will just sit there and take it and make power. Nothing else seems to like as much timing as those combos do, hell my 10:1 compression TT 427 at 20 psi of boost on E90 only picked up 5 horsepower going from 18 to 20 deg. It can pay to read plugs at least once or twice when you are starting to push it to really see where the limits are.
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 04:12 PM
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I’ll try some more fuel and see if it likes it . I’ve ran about a dozen on the dyno and never seen one make more at 11.5 afr then at 11.9 12.0 ish . I’ve picked up 4 mph going from 11.4 to 12.0 at the track 9.0 car at 3500 lbs
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 04:57 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by yenkomike
I’ll try some more fuel and see if it likes it . I’ve ran about a dozen on the dyno and never seen one make more at 11.5 afr then at 11.9 12.0 ish . I’ve picked up 4 mph going from 11.4 to 12.0 at the track 9.0 car at 3500 lbs
Last 5.3 I did on 20psi out the back went 160 at 3600lbs, never went over 11.4:1 A/F and was on 18*. Seemed to jam out just fine, I never felt the need to lean it out for more MPH.
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 07:39 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ls3fox
Yep use the br7ef too about 1000hp then switch to r5671a-8
What's the difference between that R5671A-8 vs the B8EFS? Both non-resisted and non-projected tip. One says race in the description and one does not.
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Old Oct 9, 2021 | 09:50 PM
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B8EFS has a tapered seat, .709" reach and removable nut. R5671A-8 has a gasket seat and .750 reach.
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Old Oct 9, 2021 | 10:00 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 2JZFC
B8EFS has a tapered seat, .709" reach and removable nut. R5671A-8 has a gasket seat and .750 reach.
not a big fan of that removable nut lol
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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 03:05 PM
  #38  
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Removable nut? Is that so you can clock the strap like back in the old days?
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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 10:56 PM
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Removable nut refers to the guy behind the wheel….
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Old Oct 15, 2021 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
My buddy has been running his S484 / 370 car and He's been making a pass, drive back to pits, and pulling plugs. the timing mark is still pretty strong.
On a new set of plugs, especially a plug like NGK's that works for timing.

If you are reading the plugs for fuel. I don't think that would work.
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