Post em up Zac!

 

Lol
Only real point in saying anything is that I would not compare anybody's temperature reading versus someone else

You could have temperatures that look identical but yet aren't simply because of the configuration and components used
I ever get a free second here I'll post a lot of stuff

 

Let's start off here

Response time, or time constant

It's not the time it takes to get temp A to temp B.... It is the time that it takes to get to 63.2% of the change from A to B

Say temperature A is 0°, say temperature B is 100°... And you instantly stick to sensor from A to B

The response time would be how long it took to get to 63.2°


These times are flaunted all over but it means nothing unless you know the medium it took place with
You take the same sensor in low velocity low density air stream... It is much slower than if it is in a higher density higher velocity air charge ..... And that is still much slower than say if it is stirred into a liquid like oil.

So here will be my first example

All three of these sensors are installed in a very short section of tube

Red is an ultra response t1 therm
Blue is a hyper response stinger k-type
Green is the exposed GM therm

This is taking a heat gun and letting it completely heat up (600*+)... And then placing it into that very short section of tube

The air crossing those sensors is immediately over 600°, you are seeing the response from the sensors when at that low velocity, low density, air scenario

 

Okay now let's look at the same two sensors... Not enough hands to do 3 at once

Once again blue is the stinger k-type exposed
Red is the t1 hyper response therm

Both these were stirred directly into 260° oil

The cursor is at the response time of the therm
You can see how this is drastically faster but yet honestly still slow to reach actual temperature

 

Once I get another chance here I have some really cool screenshots in actual function showing you some stuff

 

Yayy, data that doesn't answer the OP's question. OP didn't state if he's running EFI or carb, what fuel he uses, boost level, engine size, horsepower, if this is a race boat or a cruiser, or any other details and thread detoured to sensor response times.

 

You obviously can't read, and are slow in the head generally so....

 

The insults are so manly, they must make you feel better about yourself.

 

the reason I’m asking is this is the boat and this is the new to me puppy I will be installing on the boat it takes 850 horsepower to run my prop at full potential I’m hoping this procharger will get to there I was thinking about hooking a sensor to it that when I’m at wot it just dumps meth this boat will see 6300 rpm for extended periods of time sometimes I’ll run 10 miles of dry ground to get to a hunting spot I just want the engine to live a happy life it made 540 hp naturally aspirated

 

Have more details like fuel, EFI/carb, etc? Running over dry ground certainly changes the suggestions above for pulling water for an air to water. Least starting with 540 you won't need a bunch of boost to hit 850. It looks like you have plenty of room and of course will have a ton of airflow so fitting an air to air intercooler would be a simple, cheap solution and you won't have to worry about refilling meth. When I ran direct port meth it guzzled it down, 20+ miles at 6000+ RPM is going to drain it pretty quick, with fuel prices going up it could pay for the intercooler in a short time, $60 for a 5 gal can that may only last you one trip vs a $400 intercooler that lasts almost forever.

 

Fueling is efi I’m running a 60 pound injector with a magnum 750 pump, I was going to just try to keep it cool on the water meth for now because I think trying to find someone to do the piping for the intercooler will be a bear

 

If you can install a procharger you should be able to do a cold side ​​yourself, a couple silicone couplers, clamps, and set of bends you'd be in business.

 

Could he put the A2A behind the propeller, outta keep it pretty cool lmao.

 

i would not like to put anything behind the prop it’s a 5,000 dollar prop if something was to happen I’d rather keep everything in front, the prop pulls massive of air across it

 

Sent you a PM if you got a minute...

Andrew

 

So an air to air right in front of the propeller then?
You wouldn't even have to be moving to cooler the intercooler lol.
I know nothing about air boats other than they're really cool, just throwing ideas out to see if anything sticks.
If you put a nice Treadstone or Bell unit in front with all that air flow you'd think it would keep IAT's really low especially at speed.

 

do you have any links to what you are talking about I’m interested in what ever I need to assure I can hold this thing to the carport for miles at a time at 6300 engine rpm and not having to worry about a thing

 

Seems like plenty of room to tuck it under the seats like these guys

 

thank you for the idea yes sir room isn’t gonna be a problem what kinda concerns me if being able to find the piping to complete the task seeing this set up does help give me a little since of direction I just need to find me a good air to air that isn’t to big but still very efficient, also not sure if I need to locate me a blow off vavle as well and plum all of that in

 

At that sort of consistent load, I would be more worried about the short block than anything else. This isn't a drag car that sees loads for 10 seconds. You are more in the land speed racing territory here...This is where things like piston squirters, dry sump oiling systems with big coolers, and bullet proof intercooling are not optional.


Andrew