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They all leak. Boost activated valves or electric cutouts are slightly different. I have been running an eBay 3” ($30 kind) for like 4 years and it only leaks a tiny bit. No experience with the boost valves but I prefer to have control over when it’s open and opening before boost as it helps spool considerably.
I am planning to use electric and let dominator open and close based on boost..
And my bb garrett twins spool very quick.. feel more like a twin screw than turbos so no worries there.
They all leak. Boost activated valves or electric cutouts are slightly different. I have been running an eBay 3” ($30 kind) for like 4 years and it only leaks a tiny bit. No experience with the boost valves but I prefer to have control over when it’s open and opening before boost as it helps spool considerably.
Exactly. They ALL leak, and most boost activated ones also rattle. It really is a trial and error process, even among the same brand names. Don't let that discourage you, because it can be worth it, but know you will NOT get a definitive internet answer.
They all leak. Boost activated valves or electric cutouts are slightly different. I have been running an eBay 3” ($30 kind) for like 4 years and it only leaks a tiny bit. No experience with the boost valves but I prefer to have control over when it’s open and opening before boost as it helps spool considerably.
I wouldn't say they all leak, I have been running QTP's on my S10 for 3 years and they never leaked but they are also slow to open and close so you're not going to open and close them fast enough to match going into and out of boost.
I wouldn't say they all leak, I have been running QTP's on my S10 for 3 years and they never leaked but they are also slow to open and close so you're not going to open and close them fast enough to match going into and out of boost.
My neighbor has qtp on his turbo escalade, but they are painfully slow to open or close. I did not refer to them in my previous response just because they are barely better than jumping out at every stoplight with an adjusting wrench.
My neighbor has qtp on his turbo escalade, but they are painfully slow to open or close. I did not refer to them in my previous response just because they are barely better than jumping out at every stoplight with an adjusting wrench.
They aren't that slow lol, Probably takes 4-5 seconds to open fully, Very few electric cutouts will open and close as fast as boost kicks in.
Best electric cutout? The two QTP's on my 91 RS have worked great for six years but they do leak. Noticeable in car when car is stopped and idles for any length of time.
Did you adjust them when they were new? Mine needed a little work to seal tight.
Have you backfired through the exhaust with them closed? That alone will cause the butterfly to bend slightly, I open mine at cold startup and never hit the rev limiter with them closed.
Reason I don’t like boost valves is they only open coming or in boost. With a electric cutout I open it a few sec before I know I want to have fun and it allows me to spool faster and the car pulls harder. You can’t get that with a boost valve bc it opens so late they are more for when your about to be or in boost and open to provide made power. I like to think of cutouts as alternative exhausts which provide the benefits of free flowing exhaust/noise and power when you want it and closed provide quiet and DD style fun but you can still scoot around with boost and go fast but you will be leaving some power on the table.
I prefer quiet but fast and you can’t have that with a boost valve. I even recirculated my WG so you don’t hear that open up and it’s just woosh!
you would think someone would figure out a way to put an oring or something and a spring tensioning system to keep it good and tight when closed. The gear motors are strong abs should be able to keep it open when powered off.
I wouldn't say they all leak, I have been running QTP's on my S10 for 3 years and they never leaked but they are also slow to open and close so you're not going to open and close them fast enough to match going into and out of boost.
Are you crawling under the car with a piece of paper or your hand to test that? I didn’t think mine was leaking bc you can’t hear it but sure enough hand over the cutout dump and i could feel alittle. I think it’s something they all do unless they have found a way to seal the butterfly Valve which only contacts half on each side but at different directions.
Are you crawling under the car with a piece of paper or your hand to test that? I didn’t think mine was leaking bc you can’t hear it but sure enough hand over the cutout dump and i could feel alittle. I think it’s something they all do unless they have found a way to seal the butterfly Valve which only contacts half on each Side but at different directions.
I run four mufflers 2 Borla straight thru then cutouts and then over the axle through spirals and into large chambered mufflers, It's damn near dead quite unless I open the cutouts. My cutouts exit out the side of my truck and no they don't leak and no I didn't check them with paper why would I ? I can't hear them even with the windows down lol, Why are concerned about it if you can't hear it?
I ran a 3" QTP electric cutout on my old car for four years without issue, I liked the manual operation so I could open it as I idled through cruise ins.
Never rattled or gave me issue, I think placement has a lot to do with longevity, my buddy had one very close to the turbo and he had issues, mine was down stream from the turbo about 4 feet and was money.
My car also had a full exhaust with a large muffler so when it was closed, car was very quiet.
Did you adjust them when they were new? Mine needed a little work to seal tight.
Have you backfired through the exhaust with them closed? That alone will cause the butterfly to bend slightly, I open mine at cold startup and never hit the rev limiter with them closed.
No back fires with them closed. Haven't messed with them since they went on really since they've worked reliably. Sounds like I should check them see if they can be tweaked to seal better.
This is the best customer service I've had and great prices IMO. My 4" cutout never rattled and sealed well. It does open slow though. Owner even customer made me a thicker "throttle blade" when I blew his open, free of charge.
I run th DGP fast open/close cutout on my sport bike. It opens and closes very quickly... and I don't notice it leaking/rattling. Also have a nice remote so you don't need to wire a switch. They have an annoying safety feature tho and won't let you open/close on the fly. I'm sure it could be bypassed.
I Iike the badlandz... And made in America no less... May give those a whirl...
I will probably only use at the track at trigger them open with transbrake maybe. I will pull a piece of pipe out first and see if I even gain anything first.
Well I went with the badlanz... Nice stuff. I bought the wireless control and it has 2 negative trigger wires 1 for open 1 for close... I will use dominator to trigger...
My plan is to trigger open with Transbrake button then close trigger after 15 seconds or so.. I have twins, each with their own 3"pipe so I don't need help spooling and I like to sneak up on the guy in the other lane so this way it doesn't get loud until its too late
Sooooo, I am starting to like the way you think. Especially since I have been known to use airbags in some suspensions, and as is common in some trucks, use a small onboard air compressor and tank. The whole setup would add far less weight than 1 audio subwoofer, and give an onboard air supply for changing tire pressure any time you feel the urge. On a street car (which is the only reason for an exhaust cutout in the first place) I have a hard time seeing much downside. The added complexity seems quite minimal.
