mstansbury0704

Update, new plugs with gap @.024” fixed it all. Got meth working. Did some WOT pulls to 5800..Car is making 9PSI right now. PE was set to 10.5. With the 10GPH meth coming on at 3 PSI and full at 5 it was getting around 5% AFR ER. Did some adjustments based on the log and backed PE up to 11.0. I start seeing boost at 2400-2800 RPM so PE starts to richen up there progressively down to 11.0
got a degree of knock at 4800RPM so backed it down to 11degrees.
blows me away how this cam and such a large pulley is making this kind of PSI..
Im desperately hoping this motor can hang tough for this year but with near 11:1 compression and a prior strong running NA setup that was making good power I’m a little doubtful..

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I hit 16 psi on my cast LS6 on 93 plus windshield washer fluid and have been for awhile. As long as the tune is good it'll be fine.

FrankieD

iTrader: (9)

what is your timing set at for 16psi with your setup?

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

12 degrees and tapers off to 10.

mstansbury0704

Maybe you all can school me some, I’m running a 10GPH meth nozzle with a 300PSI pump, should I consider upping this to a 15? And what is concerning to me is the car was making 425-440rwhp before the 9 PSI. Seems like I’m cringing whenever I was getting on it lol. I feel like the boost number is off..but idk if this isn’t a worked over D1sc. Blower rpms at 6k are only 40k rpm and it’s making boost at 2500 and 9 PSI up top with a 7.65&4.63 pulley combo
I’m running between 10-12 degrees throughout my WOT pull so there’s definitely lots of power left in it but I don’t think it will handle any timing pushing.
also, how are you guys populating your VE tables? Surely there is a better way than to hold the motor at 5k rpm under boost and working the pedal to get the VE populated. Any tips on interpolating data that I’ll probably never need?

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I'm north of 700whp at 16 psi and use 93 and a single M10 nozzle right at the TB. 4xxwhp range is nothing to these motors as long as the tune is right. Don't be paranoid just be reasonable. As far as populating a VE, you won't hit every cell. you can try to play with speed/gear/rpm to hit as many cells before WOT as possible. Then make some good WOT pulls and populate those cells and interpolate between then. You don't need it perfect, just try to smooth between points and not have alot of large peaks and valleys.

mstansbury0704

Sooo the 10GPH is all good then.
also, been chatting with Bob at brute speed. Wtf is up with this D1 I have? Is it possible it’s had its step up ratio changed? It’s got the BIGGEST pulley I can run on it and it’s making a stupid amount of PSI vs what a typical setup would make…

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Boost is a measurement of restriction or pressure differential. I didn't see what the rest of the motor/intake/exhaust setup was but all of that could be impacting your boost.

mstansbury0704

235/243 .630/.615 111LSA.
PRC225 heads 62cc. Longtubes,ORY,Borla.
ls6 intake.
Bob has no idea wtf is up either..
note this is 160KPA and 8-9PSI logged by scanner and my standalone boost/meth controller. So I think the data is correct..
Edit: Bob has stated someone may have swapped the tags and I have an F series. Which given the history. Sounds like it could make sense…
this unit’s serial tag was made as a p1 in 04 and upgraded to a D1 in 2010…now if someone was looking to scam it’s plausible they bought an f1 after not liking/maxing out their D1sc, Yanked the tags off and sold the D1 as an F1 and put the d1 tag on the F1?…..either way I don’t think it should be making boost like this as only 40k rpm and it’s LOUD similar to F1 series I’ve heard..

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Haha, playing with labels could certainly do it. If you're still shifting at 7k that is also playing a role. Higher the RPM, more boost.

mstansbury0704

Nope it’s showing 160KPA at 5800 rpm. Lmfao. I’m not going to spin it past 6-6100, going to set my 2 step 2nd limit to 6300and let it ride..this motor has lived at 7k for 30k miles but I’m not trying to scatter it across the road. I guess my next post will be hey guys, so I windowed the block LOL…what’s odd is the impeller LOOKS like a D1 but I think someone has swapped it as there’s a small chip out of the mounting boss like someone was prying on it..idk what to think but the boost is fun though. LOL

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

LOL well enjoy!

mstansbury0704

Haha for sure it’s pretty wild how different the car drives now even out of boost and low rpm, cam DEFINITELY works well with boost even though tick says it’s not recommended. I should’ve done this years ago LOL. Just worried about the motor holding up right now. No idea what kind of power it’s making.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

So you’re saying we can send our head units back for an upgrade?

emailing Procharger now lol.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

Procharger says you can upgrade from a p series to d series. You cannot upgrade a d series to an f series because they are completely different.

mstansbury0704

Yea my unit was originally a p1, upgraded to a d1 and Bob seems to think someone may have swapped the tag over to my unit. Since it’s outputting a lot vs other setups
I.E. max out the p1, upgrade it to a d1 then maxxed that out..then get an f1, swap the tags and sell the D1 as an F1. Lmao

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

Ask the guy if he sold you an F1 with a D1 tag on it? He wouldn't need to lie to you for selling you a bigger head unit than you paid for.

mstansbury0704

Can’t do that sadly. The guy who sold it didn’t buy it. It was owned by his old time car friend who passed away. They were close dragracing friends and used to wrench on their old cars together and the family gave it to him after he passed away..he’s more into the old ford FE motors so he couldn’t use it on his fairlane hot rod..I got it for a STEAL so I mean hell I would’ve been happy with a p1 for what I paid lmao

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

That head unit can work on anything if you try hard enough...lol. Anyway have fun I wouldn't be afraid to spin the motor higher. I ran 14 psi on my sbe ls1 before I decided to sell it while it was still running good before I went any higher. I was hitting 20 psi with a 3.7 pulley and have a 3.55 on it now, but haven't gone over 80% throttle yet since the pulley change. Too cool still and no traction. As long as the tune is good it will be fine.

Eta: 12 psi on sbe ls1 was with pump only, 14 psi on sbe was with ethanol. I don’t think I added meth until I was around 17-18 psi on my current motor, but may have actually gained boost with the meth if I remember correctly. I use an 8.25 crank pulley.

mstansbury0704

What was your power before boost? Stockish cam and stock heads? I was looking at my logs and on a short pull from a sub optimal rpm for the CAM, it went from 60-80mph in 1.5 seconds on an uphill drive with no wheel spin… this combo is surprisingly VERY trackable seeing as the cam makes peak torque in the upper 4K rpm but still holds its own downlow. I’d highly suggest it. Now my possible Frankensteined blower may be part of the deal, but I see no noticeable issue running a NA max effort cam with boost. In fact, it seems to really hook well, allowing the car to squat down at 3k and by the time the torque spike comes in it’s planted and rolling.

On the one end though, how are you all dealing with the procharger inlet hat? Mine popped the rubber hose off on the inlet hat side. I am wondering if the engine isn’t torquing up and it’s pushing on the frame. Maybe rotate the inlet hat down a hair? Procharger’s inlet hat sucks ***. It’s not a good design for sealing. The end of it has a slight concave in it so a hose clamp doesn’t squeeze it very tight. I’ve grabbed an assortment of t bolt clamps from work to test out for the sizing as I popped the charge pipe off the driver side intercooler. Stuck it back with 2 hose clamps but would like something better..