Limit of ls9 gaskets
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
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From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
ls3 block with Procharger 20 psi peak. That’s my current combo, but considering options for a new build. Are the Athena with cut rings a big improvement over the ls9 gaskets?
You should be more than fine with LS9 gaskets with that setup, I don't see the point of cut rings until you are pushing pretty big power. I did a similar setup with an F1A-94 on an LS3 with LSA heads on LS9 gaskets, was in a 1000hp family car and perfectly fine hauling 4200lbs around.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
I'm not looking for 16-1800, but definitely looking for more than I currently make. I'm just gathering info at this point for my next build. I'm just wondering at what point going from regular ARP studs and ls9 gaskets to the better ARP studs and Athena gaskets may be worth it. I know my friend was using Athena gaskets on a dart block and it was actually his heads that cracked at 1700+ hp so they definitely work. Just thinking maybe it's worth the piece of mind even at 12-1300 hp?
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Verdad Gallardo I'm not looking for 16-1800, but definitely looking for more than I currently make. I'm just gathering info at this point for my next build. I'm just wondering at what point going from regular ARP studs and ls9 gaskets to the better ARP studs and Athena gaskets may be worth it. I know my friend was using Athena gaskets on a dart block and it was actually his heads that cracked at 1700+ hp so they definitely work. Just thinking maybe it's worth the piece of mind even at 12-1300 hp?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
friend of mine had a dart block at 1700 rwhp and a head cracked. It was an aftermarket casting also. Hydro locked the engine at over 8000 rpm and it destroyed everything. Now he said screw the LS and is building a 540 big block still with gear drive Procharger.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
I already run ethanol plus meth injection with ls9 gaskets and arp studs. Just thinking where do I go from here whether that be a bigger Procharger or turbo what do I need to handle 1200 and beyond. Not concerned with daily drivability going forward want a race car that can drive on the streets in good whether lol.
I already run ethanol plus meth injection with ls9 gaskets and arp studs. Just thinking where do I go from here whether that be a bigger Procharger or turbo what do I need to handle 1200 and beyond. Not concerned with daily drivability going forward want a race car that can drive on the streets in good whether lol.
The heads give before the gaskets. According to the fast guys like Capizzi anyway. The head decks themselves warp over X amount of runs at big power levels in their experience. Then they blow the gasket. Its not a fastener or HG issue.
But they will likely go much farther than you as they aren’t limited by motor/blower RPM. They are spinning 8200-8400 rpm and making 1200-1400whp going by trap and weight. Same w jack Roberts and the other high RPM fellas. They say moneys better spent on an aftermarket head with thick deck than fancy fasteners and head gaskets. Regular ol arp stud and ls9’s will hold the power fine assuming the tune is on and you aren’t running ridiculous cylinder pressure at “relatively” low rpm.
But they will likely go much farther than you as they aren’t limited by motor/blower RPM. They are spinning 8200-8400 rpm and making 1200-1400whp going by trap and weight. Same w jack Roberts and the other high RPM fellas. They say moneys better spent on an aftermarket head with thick deck than fancy fasteners and head gaskets. Regular ol arp stud and ls9’s will hold the power fine assuming the tune is on and you aren’t running ridiculous cylinder pressure at “relatively” low rpm.
I already run ethanol plus meth injection with ls9 gaskets and arp studs. Just thinking where do I go from here whether that be a bigger Procharger or turbo what do I need to handle 1200 and beyond. Not concerned with daily drivability going forward want a race car that can drive on the streets in good whether lol.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Sounds good. Certainly don’t want to spend my money in the wrong place. This is over a year out planning ahead, but I planned my current build for well over a year before I started buying parts as well. This is uncharted territory for me, but I always do plenty of research before buying.
Im running the little D1x about 4000 over max recommended impeller speed currently, but don’t want to put a bigger blower on this stock crank ls3.
So if I build a new motor might as well build it for 1200 plus so I’m covered.
How are the cheaper aftermarket castings like Tsp heads for 1200 hp? Or are we talking afr, trickflow, mast, level heads needed?
Im running the little D1x about 4000 over max recommended impeller speed currently, but don’t want to put a bigger blower on this stock crank ls3.
So if I build a new motor might as well build it for 1200 plus so I’m covered.
How are the cheaper aftermarket castings like Tsp heads for 1200 hp? Or are we talking afr, trickflow, mast, level heads needed?
Really can’t focus on those power levels and reliability without the complete package IMO. If you want that kind of power it needs to be ground up. Aftermarket block, crank, rods, pistons, heads. Without the whole package there’s always a weak link. The amount of money required to go much above 1000whp “reliably” is pretty insane. Like 4-5x the cost. If you want to race cheap. Keep it around 1200 crank or less and run a feather weight. As light as you need to hit your ET goal. Then you have to plan for a cage and safety equipment. Running below an 8.50 gets expensive fast. 7.50 or quicker is ridiculous IMO. Out of my toy budget anyway.
Really can’t focus on those power levels and reliability without the complete package IMO. If you want that kind of power it needs to be ground up. Aftermarket block, crank, rods, pistons, heads. Without the whole package there’s always a weak link. The amount of money required to go much above 1000whp “reliably” is pretty insane. Like 4-5x the cost. If you want to race cheap. Keep it around 1200 crank or less and run a feather weight. As light as you need to hit your ET goal. Then you have to plan for a cage and safety equipment. Running below an 8.50 gets expensive fast. 7.50 or quicker is ridiculous IMO. Out of my toy budget anyway.