Fuel System Upgrade Needed?
Maybe there is something built into the sending unit but there is nothing under the truck that I can change out which just made me wonder if things had changed in regards to fuel quality and cleanliness that filters were no longer required.
I don't have room for a spin on deal, I went ahead and ordered a 30 micron unit to go after the pumps.
Maybe there is something built into the sending unit but there is nothing under the truck that I can change out which just made me wonder if things had changed in regards to fuel quality and cleanliness that filters were no longer required.
I don't have room for a spin on deal, I went ahead and ordered a 30 micron unit to go after the pumps.
I vaguely recall having a few different Summit billet 10? micron filters that I never used (you're welcome to them).
...and to chime in on your earlier Q- I'm a fan of a over-engineered fuel system for many reasons, applied voltage / voltage drop being one.
Last edited by n2xlr8n66; Aug 21, 2022 at 08:18 PM.
I vaguely recall having a few different Summit billet 10? micron filters that I never used (you're welcome to them).
...and to chime in on your earlier Q- I'm a fan of a over-engineered fuel system for many reasons, applied voltage / voltage drop being one.
My concern with the 10 micron units was flow, Summit doesn't rate theirs along with most others unless there's a hefty price tag on it.
Does your fuel system not use any 10 micron filters, only 30, no issues?
I've been buying fuel from the same station for over a decade and never had a problem with contaminants either water or dirt.
When installing the new pumps, all the wiring was far thicker than what came on the pumps so I think I'm in good shape, these pumps won't have to work very hard at all 90% of the time so I'm not super worried about amp loads.
My concern with the 10 micron units was flow, Summit doesn't rate theirs along with most others unless there's a hefty price tag on it.
Does your fuel system not use any 10 micron filters, only 30, no issues?
I've been buying fuel from the same station for over a decade and never had a problem with contaminants either water or dirt.
When installing the new pumps, all the wiring was far thicker than what came on the pumps so I think I'm in good shape, these pumps won't have to work very hard at all 90% of the time so I'm not super worried about amp loads.
Yes. I changed plans during my build (went e85) and thought it wise if I used the best filters I could afford, hence the Aeromotive 10 / 100 filters for the same reason you mentioned. It makes no sense to me to pay $$$$ for pumps and injectors unless there is adequate filtering in place.
Sounds like you have a solid system going in. I'll report back when I get home and send them out to you.
S.
Yes. I changed plans during my build (went e85) and thought it wise if I used the best filters I could afford, hence the Aeromotive 10 / 100 filters for the same reason you mentioned. It makes no sense to me to pay $$$$ for pumps and injectors unless there is adequate filtering in place.
Sounds like you have a solid system going in. I'll report back when I get home and send them out to you.
S.
I think its pretty sold, its all evil energy stuff off amazon, pre-inspection is required as I found a couple items but easy fixes.
Just worried that the 30 micron filter isn't fine enough but was worried that a small 10 micron would cause a restriction as well.
Jegs makes a 10 micron unit that is 9 inches long that might be worth looking at but even those are only rated to 1000hp.
If you have two I'm temped to put them in parallel to help with flow, I may be over thinking this though too.
Used a -08AN adapter on the stock bucket feed and ran -08AN up to the 30 micron filter under the driver floor board then up to the passenger side fuel rail.
Everything used was from Evil Energy on Amazon, had great reviews but be sure to inspect everything first as one of the fittings had a little shaving in it.
Pressurized the system and the fuel filter was leaking, should've disassembled and inspected that too as there was a shaving in the o-ring groove causing the leak, removed the shaving and all good now.
Flushed the system before attaching it to the fuel rail, looks like a garden hose with the 450's lol.
Just waiting on the radiator now, once that's back I'll make a hit and report back both on the new Rife IAT and if the IDC has improved.
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It's a brand new Summit Racing SUM-230131 - Summit Racing® Full Flow Fuel Filter (40 micron, -6 in/out, compatible with e85, etc. flows 130 gph)....I could only find one of them, but you're welcome to it.
Edit- sorry, should have read the update.
It's a brand new Summit Racing SUM-230131 - Summit Racing® Full Flow Fuel Filter (40 micron, -6 in/out, compatible with e85, etc. flows 130 gph)....I could only find one of them, but you're welcome to it.
Edit- sorry, should have read the update.
You'd probably agree since the rest of the system is -08 so sticking a -06 filter in there would be counter productive.
I think it'll be fine with the 30 micron in there, maybe over the winter I'll put a nice Weldon filter on it, just can't do it right now.
Made a full street hit this past weekend, good news is my IDC has dropped into the 60-64% range so about a 10% drop overall so safe to say the bigger pumps and -08 feed definitely helped.
The Rife IAT works fantastic, the data gained is far more accurate and eye opening, my A2W setup actually drops the intake charge temp when boost rises at 10 lbs. lol.
Draw back, still having some voltage challenges, my voltage got so low while cruising that my AFR gauge was faulting out.
The alternator doesn't want to charge while in gear at idle, it will in neutral, while at cruise I see 13-14 volts but if I'm slow cruising it drops slowly plus I'm only seeing 12.7 at high rpm.
@jayyyw suggested a JS Racing alternator and while I quickly dismissed that notion due to cost, I went back to their site and poked around a little more.
I contacted JS Racing, they replied back almost immediately, after some back and forth they recommended their 250 amp model that will charge to 9,000 engine rpm, cost on that unit was much better $329.00 so come winter, I will be installing one of these units.
Go ahead Jayyyw and say I told you so lol.
I had the battery checked and tested which it passed but I'm a little skeptical, I also bought a battery tender to keep the battery topped off to try and limp it through the next month until I park the car for the winter.
Thankfully I don't have a significant amount of amp draw which is probably why its taken this long to discover.
The current alternator works, its just not a good fit for my combo, in a stock car it would probably be great.
I'm very excited to pick up the JS unit and try it out.
Surprised you're running two under driven pulleys and not seeing any issues charging at low speed, might be because of your car or the Holley has the alternator putting out all the time.
I know the 4th gen F-body will drop the voltage at idle at times which is supposed to be voltage based but if I'm at 11.0-11.5v at times at idle you'd think the alt. would kick on which it doesn't in gear but does if I drop it in neutral, wish I could just hotwire the damn thing to be on all the time.
I thought about a truck alternator as that's what I had used on my last car, it seemed to work fine but I wasn't monitoring the voltage either.
The alternator is a Tuff Stuff 175 amp unit so you'd think it'd be fine but I have no experience with these units.
At this point its almost the same cost for a new battery or an alternator, just want to make sure I choose wisely.











