Hello gents,
Need some opinions here if you would be as so kind.
Currently tuning my 1999 Turbo Camaro and have noticed on the last pull my IDC is in the 75-78% range through the top of first and second gear around 7,200-7,400 rpm, third gear didn't get has high, only about 67% @ 6,300 rpm before I ran out of real-estate. Lambda is solid in the .75-.78 range the entire pull as well.
From what I've researched, ideally most injector manufacturers shoot for a maximum IDC of 80-85% before recommending a larger injector so with that thought process in mind I'm pretty close to maximum.
Now using some of the online calculators my current fuel system "should" be good to 1000whp but its close on both the fuel pumps and injectors.
DW Fuel Pump Calculator calls for just 415 LPH and 899cc or 85.6 lb./hr. for injector which seems odd since I'm so close to the 85% max IDC threshold.
What have you guys seen as I'm just not buying I can hit 1,000whp with the current setup especially seeing how close to the max IDC I'm currently seeing, I'm thinking I can squeeze a few more pounds out of it maybe, unless I'm closer to my HP goal than I think?
I realize guys can get away with IDC's up to 100%, I don't want to do that, I'm not that lucky and I'll be the guy that has an issue if I do lol.
Admittedly this is not a track car, mostly a fast street car that will see the track occasionally at some point and hasn't been on a dyno since I've purchased it, just hits on the street up to now.
Car runs really hard and puts the power down very well, it just needs to make more, always more.
My thoughts are if I'm out of both would be to remove one of the 255's and add a single 450 or 525 pump to the bucket, running on the 255 out of boost and having the 450/525 come with boost and install some Bosch 210's.
Combo is listed below, fuel used is currently pump fuel running 10-11 lbs. of boost (looking to go as high as 14-15 if possible) but will be race fuel for higher boost (20+ lbs.) passes. (E85 is not available)
1999 Camaro
LS1 Dished Forged Piston/ Forged H-Beam Rod / Stock Crank
CNC Ported 243's
Brute Speed FI Cam
Victor Jr. Intake / Aaron's Elbow / Holley 105mm TB
3.5" Intake Piping throughout / 2000hp A2W I/C
FI Billet S484 Turbo / T6 96mm Exh. / Huron Speed T6 Kit w/ 4" fender dump
Fuel System - Twin in tank 255's / -06 Feed / Factory Feed as Return / Aftermarket Rails / Aeromotive BRFPR @ 43.5 psi base pressure / 1000cc FIC Injectors rated for 95 lb./hr. @ 43.5 and 114 lb./hr. @ 58 psi.
High output alternator - 12.7-12.8 volts at 7,400 rpm.
TH475 (TH400HD) / 3.50 Gear / 275/60/15 Drag Radial

 

I agree with your take that it *should* be fine, but that feels like a bit of an outdated system to me. Totally agree that the 255 could be swapped to a 525 and that alone would make a huge difference. I also personally would go from the FIC injectors (I hate how they advertise flow rates at 58psi) for some 210's. With those relatively straight forward changes I think you would be significantly improved.

 

That's what I'm thinking, posted on Yellowbullet as well and they had similar feedback.
I think for now I'm gonna replace both 255's with 450's because the price is right and because I have a return style system so why not.
Then I'll bump the base pressure a little and see how far I can push these FIC injectors, I'll go to Bosch 210's as a last resort simply from a cost perspective.
Thank you for the response!

 

Fuel.... E85?

 

-6 feed is small imo - factory feed is 3/8” which is bigger than the i/d of most -6 fittings.
I went -10 feed then y to dual -8 into the back of the rails. -8 to the regulator and then to factory feed as the return. I’ve got 2 450s feeding a set of 80lb Dekas atm, on e85.

 

Pump gas/race gas

 

Only running gasoline, -06 will be good for quite a bit more.

 

Voltage is a little low from what you're saying. Might be able to squeeze a little more out of it getting the voltage up in the 14v range at the same RPM.

 

Not sure how I'd get more voltage out of it at this point, I've already added a 3" alternator pulley and gone through the headache of making that work.
I know there's "boost a pump" modules out there but I'd rather just put a couple of 450's in there then add more wired components that could fail.
Two 450's should be plenty to get me where I want to go, at that point its the block and stock crank that become a liability lol.

 

If you are close on fuel pump, twin 340's swap out, direct fit with twin 255's. They are the same size, same plug, etc... Just make sure your wiring is up to snuff, because they do pull a lot more amps than the 255.

The new OEM 340 right from Walbro: https://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-gss-fuel-pumps

As long as you aren't going crazy with fuel pressure, you'll get 30%+ more fuel flow over the 255's.

 

All the wiring for both my fuel pumps has already been upgraded and I found a decent deal on genuine Walbro 450's through Amazon so I ordered them, they were only a few bucks more than the AEM 340's.
I figure with two 450's running around 50 psi base pressure and a max of 25 lbs. of boost I outta be in good shape, the second pump is on a Hobbs that comes on around 6 lbs.

 

A better alternator.

Adding more load to the system is going to drop your voltage even more. That's how I lost my SBE engine. Added too much load to the system on the stock alternator and voltage got too low. Didn't realize till after it blew and I was watching some videos I had taken of the gauge cluster.

I run a JS Alternator and have a solid 14.8v up till 8500rpms where I shift. Same thing on my last turbo setup with a JS Alternator.

 

How low did your voltage get when the failure occurred?
I agree I'd like to seem more voltage from mine but if I'm seeing 12.7-12.8 and if I'm using the pumps in their specified range for 12v operation I would think they should be fine.
$600 for an alternator seems a bit much especially since I feel like there's a lot of guys out there not running a $600 alternator who don't have an issue.
I'm thinking my battery may be on its last legs actually, I put a volt meter on it this morning and before start up its only showing 11.9 volts, should easily be sitting at 12.7+ if it was in good shape.
At 12v twin 450's are still putting out 600+lph of fuel at 60 psi so I'm thinking I should be good for now, this winter a new battery will be on the list of changes to be made.

 

It got down in the 10-11v range @ 1000whp.

 

While it can support that it's not even close to ideal and will require more pump. Your current pumps will support more than 1000whp on gas if they don't have to fight though a single -6. I'd rather upgrade the feed vs **** with voltage stuff. Single 255hp has supported 500-600whp on gas setups since the 90's on all sorts of different cars.

 

I can't find the link but I have read a discussion about injector sizing. It made an interesting point about injector duration. The injector % you are reading is time. The injectors are only fully open or completely closed, there is not variablility of how open only how long. As duration gets higher, the percentage of time the injector is open and the charge is applied when the intake valve is closed increases. The air in the intake manifold is very turbulent and may perterb the charge before the injector opens resulting in less consistant A/F between cycles and/or cylinders.

I don't completely understand and I may not have it quite right but that was the jist of the discussion.

I'm at 750 WHP using 1,300 cc injectors and a Fore triple (TI 274's) with -8 feed and return.

 

Well and I'm sure all of that is affected by fuel volume and pressure.
My 450's should be here tomorrow and I ordered some -08 hose for the feed, gonna keep the -06 as a return, should be more than covered after that.

 

What's everyone's thoughts on a fuel filter, my 2015 pickup truck doesn't even have a filter just a screen.

Wondering if the pickup screens on the 450's are enough or if a dedicated filter is recommended, if recommended what type and micron count?

 

do you happen to have few pictures of ur lime set up. I’m in the middle of figuring out my line runs an heated u say to use the stock feed as ur retun instead of -6 line.

 

Hello Dan, I can get you some pictures when I get back home this weekend.
Its pretty straightforward, there's an adapter fitting you can buy that will allow you to connect an AN style line to the factory fuel feed right under the brake cylinder.
For the feed there several different ways you can run that, mine is setup so they'll be a -08AN line to the front of the passenger side fuel rail, a -10AN from the back of the P/S fuel rail to the back of the D/S fuel rail, then my BRFPR is mounted to the front of the driver fuel rail with the return from the BRFPR going back to the factory feed.
This setup has been working just fine with the -06 feed, just reached its practical limits for more.