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25% UDP, truck alt, single 450, subs/amp/gauges, etc. here and no charging issues. doesn't drop below about 13.5V. 14V on a cold start. Running a single 8 awg to the back of the car and use the stock wiring to trigger a relay in the trunk. I didn't see if you were boost referenced or not.
25% UDP, truck alt, single 450, subs/amp/gauges, etc. here and no charging issues. doesn't drop below about 13.5V. 14V on a cold start. Running a single 8 awg to the back of the car and use the stock wiring to trigger a relay in the trunk. I didn't see if you were boost referenced or not.
See and I've got less stuff to power than that, stock stereo which I don't use because you can't really hear it anyways, dual 450's but that shouldn't break the load bank.
I'm running very large cable to the back where the battery is, all the grounds look good and are also large cable like 0 gauge or maybe even 1-0.
With the UDP/truck alt do you still see 13.5-14v at high rpm in the 7,000-7,500 rpm range?
My last car had the same combo of UDP and truck alt but I never spun it that high but it always seemed to be fine.
I would say 13 to 13.5 after the car is hot. I don't have a larger alt pulley though. Maybe you just have a flaky alternator?
I'm thinking the alt is the culprit as well, its got a small window where I see a full 13-14v output and while driving it seems to be constantly moving up and down.
I've got a powermaster 160 amp, sent it to XS Power & they changed/setup the regulator. Battery is the XS D1400. Had to buy their charger
also. Cost of everything was the only downside.
I've got a powermaster 160 amp, sent it to XS Power & they changed/setup the regulator. Battery is the XS D1400. Had to buy their charger
also. Cost of everything was the only downside.
All things considered its not that bad really, a new AD244 150 amp alternator is $200, a new lead acid battery is $200 so really its only a couple hundred bucks more for a JS Alternator and XS Power battery.
I don't think I need to go as far as the XS battery yet, there wasn't a problem really until I installed the 3" alt pulley to keep the alt charging at high rpm, I think its simply spinning too slowly at lower rpm.
I looked at my logs and it completely shuts off at idle but kicks back on around 1,300-1,400 rpm where it carries 13.0-13.5v but then drops to 12.7 around 7,000rpm so I think it works just not the way I need it to, with factory pulley on it would probably be fine at lower rpm but then be overspun up top for sure.
I run a DR44 alternator (factory gm take off). I saw 13.5-13.8 all the time and then I wired up the sense wire on the alt. and it picked up .8-1.0 volts immediately. No underdrive for me, I spin that ****!
I run a DR44 alternator (factory gm take off). I saw 13.5-13.8 all the time and then I wired up the sense wire on the alt. and it picked up .8-1.0 volts immediately. No underdrive for me, I spin that ****!
I have the same setup, but on the sense wire are you talking about the 1 wire on the alternator plug or something else? I thought you HAD to use that wire?
I have the same setup, but on the sense wire are you talking about the 1 wire on the alternator plug or something else? I thought you HAD to use that wire?
Yes the one wire at the plug. It’ll charge without, but it won’t sense load and adjust accordingly.
Yes the one wire at the plug. It’ll charge without, but it won’t sense load and adjust accordingly.
Yours must be different then mine, I had left the sense wire unplugged on mine when fiddling with the pulleys and when I fired it up the alternator didn't output at all.
You still get full output at high rpm with the factory pulley as well?
Last edited by Black_Sunshine_99; Sep 16, 2022 at 09:30 AM.
Yours must be different then mine, I had left the sense wire unplugged on mine when fiddling with the pulleys and when I fired it up the alternator didn't output at all.
You still get full output at high rpm with the factory pulley as well?
Yours must be different then mine, I had left the sense wire unplugged on mine when fiddling with the pulleys and when I fired it up the alternator didn't output at all.
You still get full output at high rpm with the factory pulley as well?
same here. I thought they all needed the exciter wire.
I'm thinking the alt is the culprit as well, its got a small window where I see a full 13-14v output and while driving it seems to be constantly moving up and down.
That Alternator is defective.
Stock pulley 145 amp unit ( 8292 with the 4 pin regulator ) will push 110 amps at 14.4 volts with stock 525 RPM idle speed.
I have one on a cammed 4.8 Liter with an oversize 3.2" pulley, and it makes 90 amps at 740 rpm idle speed.
If you are not maintaining 14 plus volts at ALL ENGINE SPEEDS, than something is wrong, either belt slip, or the brushes are bouncing or worn down in the alternator.
AGain: Yukon/ Suburban with both Heated seats, defroster and heaters both on HiGH, and all headlights on, stock 145 amp alternator WILL maintain 14 volts at dead low idle.
That Alternator is defective.
Stock pulley 145 amp unit ( 8292 with the 4 pin regulator ) will push 110 amps at 14.4 volts with stock 525 RPM idle speed.
I have one on a cammed 4.8 Liter with an oversize 3.2" pulley, and it makes 90 amps at 740 rpm idle speed.
If you are not maintaining 14 plus volts at ALL ENGINE SPEEDS, than something is wrong, either belt slip, or the brushes are bouncing or worn down in the alternator.
AGain: Yukon/ Suburban with both Heated seats, defroster and heaters both on HiGH, and all headlights on, stock 145 amp alternator WILL maintain 14 volts at dead low idle.
Okay, well then perhaps I'll pull the listing for the alternator because I surely don't want to take someone's money to inherit a problem.
I'm using a Power Master XS volt 200 or 220A adjustable alternate on mine with a larger ebay pulley to keep alternator max RPM under 18k or whatever the recommendation is. That is a huge deal as well. A ton of people that have issues have no idea they are over spinning them bad. It has been flawless so far and I liked that I could/can adjust it if I ever decide to go back to 12V or up to 16V.
I'm using a Power Master XS volt 200 or 220A adjustable alternate on mine with a larger ebay pulley to keep alternator max RPM under 18k or whatever the recommendation is. That is a huge deal as well. A ton of people that have issues have no idea they are over spinning them bad. It has been flawless so far and I liked that I could/can adjust it if I ever decide to go back to 12V or up to 16V.
Well and that's my hesitation with the DR44, from what I'm finding, stock alternators don't like being spun over 18,000rpm, they are designed for high output at idle and where I need higher output at high rpms when running all my pumps and fans.
While some may be able to get away with it, I'm not usually that lucky and I don't want to buy a new DR44 and install an underdrive pulley only to have it not put out enough juice at idle and be back where I started or run it and over spin it and damage it.
I'm just gonna pick up one of the 250 amp JS units, then I know what I'm getting and that I'll have plenty of power to cover all my needs.
The JS unit put out 14 volts from idle to 9,000rpm and 250 amps up high where I need it without under sized pulleys.
Its really a good deal when you figure a new DR44 is $200 and the pulley is almost $100 too and the JS unit comes in at $329.00.
Quick update gents finally got my hands on my new JS Alternator and what a nice piece.
Went ahead got the 320-amp version for a few bucks more since I plan on adding an oil cooler and WMI injection in the near future and I want to be able to run everything without worry should the situation arrive however unlikely.
The alternator bracket I'm using is made by Goat Built which is a nice bracket but with the additional depth of the JS unit, it was hitting the valve cover so it's not exactly a direct fit although a stock truck alternator would be.
Luckily ICT Billet makes a nifty little extension bracket that moves the alternator up just enough to clear everything.
Then I just had to cut, re-clock and epoxy the oil fill tube to clear the alternator.
I will say it's really nice to see a rock solid 14.1 volts at idle with two coolant fans, trans cooler fan, water pump and A2W pump all running and the idle doesn't even flinch, the car actually idles better too, crisper and stronger.
Can't wait to log voltage at 7,500rpm, wondering if my fueling will change due to the added voltage at the pumps.
Thanks again for the recommendation @jayyyw
Gent's quick update.
I've been logging voltage with the new alternator off the body control module in HP Tuners and its showing 13.2-13.5 volts at 7,500 rpm once warmed up.
At cold idle I have 14.5 volts but once it seems to enter closed loop it drops down a bit.
I know it's not the alternator so I'm wondering it where I'm logging voltage is off or incorrect.
I'm still using the factory 99 ECM which raises and lowers voltage as required so should I worry about this?
Should I just run a separate wire to the alt to command full power all the time?
I also upgraded the fuel feed line to a -08AN and 40-micron filter but I also just picked up a 10-micron element since that's what a lot of people suggest running with fuel injection.
The smaller micron element shouldn't affect fueling right?
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